Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Also about to pull the trigger on Raptor 5" bars. They also are one of the few not excluded on AA's 22% off sale.

 

My only debate is black or stainless. Will the black hold uo over time? Like with rust, chip, or show scratched coating if some rocks go across it

Posted

The black Raptors are black powder coat on mild steel. If the powder chips, they can rust. The warranty is 10 years which is pretty darn good for black power coated mild steel. The polished stainless steel steps are less likely to rust, the warranty is lifetime.

Posted

Has any one had the stock bed step put on and if so how does it fold up it says you cant use it with 4" assist steps makes no sense to me why you can't have both

post-135301-0-13712700-1435193669_thumb.jpg

post-135301-0-13712700-1435193669_thumb.jpg

post-135301-0-13712700-1435193669_thumb.jpg

post-135301-0-13712700-1435193669_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Also about to pull the trigger on Raptor 5" bars. They also are one of the few not excluded on AA's 22% off sale.

 

My only debate is black or stainless. Will the black hold uo over time? Like with rust, chip, or show scratched coating if some rocks go across it

 

Almost a year on our stainless Raptors and they still look like showroom displays!

You will enjoy yours; good choice.

Edited by mefly2
Posted

has anyone seen the bestop powerboard? Basically the AMP boards except they have a motorized one and the magnetic sensor ones.

 

wonder how well the sensor ones work compared to motorized ones

Posted

I don't think I've see these boards mentioned in this thread yet. That are Iron Cross Patriot boards. I liked the looks of them and ordered a set. The install was easy and I really like them. Here are some pics.

post-131794-0-82077000-1435363497_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-15975900-1435363509_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-43990500-1435363524_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-73049000-1435363543_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-89059000-1435363559_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-95843600-1435363580_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-02541200-1435363634_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-82077000-1435363497_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-15975900-1435363509_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-43990500-1435363524_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-73049000-1435363543_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-89059000-1435363559_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-95843600-1435363580_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-02541200-1435363634_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-82077000-1435363497_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-15975900-1435363509_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-43990500-1435363524_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-73049000-1435363543_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-89059000-1435363559_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-95843600-1435363580_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-02541200-1435363634_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-82077000-1435363497_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-15975900-1435363509_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-43990500-1435363524_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-73049000-1435363543_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-89059000-1435363559_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-95843600-1435363580_thumb.jpg

post-131794-0-02541200-1435363634_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Is the sale over on thise raptors with 22% off?

Posted

I don't think I've see these boards mentioned in this thread yet. That are Iron Cross Patriot boards. I liked the looks of them and ordered a set. The install was easy and I really like them. Here are some pics.

Interesting design; I like them! What is the material and how is it finished?

Posted

The black Raptors are black powder coat on mild steel. If the powder chips, they can rust. The warranty is 10 years which is pretty darn good for black power coated mild steel. The polished stainless steel steps are less likely to rust, the warranty is lifetime.

 

I've go about 20k miles on mine in black and they're holding up pretty good, a few scratches but, no rush except for the brackets. I need to get around to sanding those down and touching them up. I kinda wish I'd gotten the SS bars but, I wanted to down play the nerfs because I don't have chrome wheels.

Posted

I almost ordered those but i thought i saw somewhere that installation required drilling

There was no drilling required. The brackets bolted right up to the pinch welds and the body holes.

 

Interesting design; I like them! What is the material and how is it finished?

They are made out of steel. I think a fairly thick gauge because they do have some weight to them. The finish is a textured powder coat. The end caps are plastic and the step treads are rubber.

Posted

Has any one had the stock bed step put on and if so how does it fold up it says you cant use it with 4" assist steps makes no sense to me why you can't have both

I think the 4" assist step curves back underneath the front of the bed where the bed step mounts. I think the bed step is pretty neat, but it is unreal that they cost 250 bucks per step.

Posted

Got my Go Rhino RB10's installed today. They are great, very solid. However, I got them put on and looked down and realized there is a gap without any of the line x type paint where the "lip" meets the main part of the board. There was also one black lock washer missing, but no worries on that. I haven't contacted them yet about the paint, but I'm really hoping they can just send me a small tube of the paint to fill it in. Anybody have any experience with this issue that can tell me what to expect?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...