Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

tried the tip from cansled, didn't work, called AMP and talked to a tech for 30 minutes, didn't work...beyond frustrated with spending $1000+ on steps that look like garbage, just feel defeated

20140521_185533_zps5c071919.jpg

AMPStepComparison_zps4be9f90a.jpg

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

Have you tried using the factory supplied shims on the rear mount assembly where the motor is located? I had similar results as you did, so I removed the board, removed the rear mount assembly and put some of those aluminum shims between the lower mount and the body. (Opposite of the big wide nut assembly.) Ths dropped my rear board mount about 3/8" or so.

 

Then I loosened up the front mounts until all gave the 'wiggle' then torqued the boards per the video on the web page. This gave me a more uniform gap when they came back up, because the rear had more upward travel than they had before this.

 

Hope this helps.

Posted

Chuck I checked with B&H today - $1450 installed will take a couple of weeks they are way behind. I checked with AutoAnything and got a delivered priced of $1092 - I will save the money and install them myself.

 

 

Thanks Wood and muttman! I worked with Pickup Heaven before so they were the first I looked at, but their web page is down. Infinity and B&H both list Amp retractable steps, so I'll reach out to them. I also sent email to AMP to let them know they don't list anyone in Austin, but Bestop does. I asked them for help locating an installer. It'll be interesting to see what they say.

I'll report back as this unfolds. Thanks again!

Posted

Chuck I checked with B&H today - $1450 installed will take a couple of weeks they are way behind. I checked with AutoAnything and got a delivered priced of $1092 - I will save the money and install them myself.

 

I reached out to AMP and they referred me to Texas Hitches & Trucks. Talked to Nick who said they will have it by tomorrow, $1,300 installed for the P&P version. I pulled the trigger...
Posted

I know Im gonna get ripped for not reading the previous 20 pages of info but...I'm 6'5, my wife is 5'9, we both agree out 2wd truck sits on the high side. I would rather spend the money on a decent set of black powder coated nerf bars than wear the edge off my leather seats sliding out for the next 10+ years. I'm waiting on my rear 2" lowering shackles to arrive. If I'm still not happy with the ride adjustment after the mod, what set of Nero bars do you recommend? Name and part number please. Thanks in advance!

Posted

I like the raptor 5" ovals on my truck, I want to say they have a 10 yr warranty on the black bars.

Posted

Had mine installed today. I asked them about your issue and he said the troubleshooting steps are what they would do. The steps should fall down nicely without the motors on them as well. No binding. Here's mine. 9ema2u3a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now open. e9e3y3e9.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Had mine installed today. I asked them about your issue and he said the troubleshooting steps are what they would do. The steps should fall down nicely without the motors on them as well. No binding. Here's mine. 9ema2u3a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now open. e9e3y3e9.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice... I have an appointment at Black Jack Truck Accessories to have mine installed on Friday.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good for you...I love the AMPs (and the wife is real happy...if the wife is happy, everyone is happy!)

 

BY THE WAY, I have my OEM Running Boards for Double Cab (part number 22805440) on the For Sale section.

 

Question: does anyone know if the OEM 6" Chrome Oval Running Boards from a 2010 Silverado Crew Cab would fit on a 2014 Sierra or Silverado Crew Cab? I also have a set from a 2010 Crew Cab for sale and I've been asked if they would fit a 2014. I don't know the part number so it is hard to figure out.

Posted

Good for you...I love the AMPs (and the wife is real happy...if the wife is happy, everyone is happy!)

 

 

Same reasoning here... I'm 6'4", so no problem here... wife is 5'3"! She's having to do gymnastics to get in and out! She'll be a happy camper tomorrow night. (Plus I have 5 grandkids... a little easier for them). :thumbs:

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Had my AMP Power Steps installed today. Best investment I could have done! I love the way they work and look, but mostly my wife is extremely happy! :thumbs:

 

I mentioned to the installer at Black Jack about the potential for an uneven gap. He said he would make sure the gap was exactly even front to back. Sure enough.... perfect!

 

I also did a 2.25" Ready-Lift level kit. Front 39" / Rear 39". :)

 

20140606_161134.jpg

 

20140606_161118.jpg

 

20140606_161050.jpg

Edited by Luster
  • Like 4
Posted

Your truck looks great Luster!

 

 

Nice Luster!

 

Thanks guys... It does seem to get a lot of looks out on the street. :cheers:

Posted

Two questions.

 

Does any run the Ranch Hand steps, the 4 or 6 on their new sierra or silverado. I cant find many pictures, they look a lot better than the nfab's, I could barely fit my shoe for leverage on the nfabs and I have a size 11.

 

How much was your install on the AMP powersteps? I have a local larger custom truck place that will do it for $200 install and $1149 +tax on the actual product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...