Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Those look to be all roof consoles not floor consoles. Or maybe I'm reading the descriptions wrong? I'd be willing to make a drive to one of those areas for a floor console at that price!!

Posted

Those look to be all roof consoles not floor consoles. Or maybe I'm reading the descriptions wrong? I'd be willing to make a drive to one of those areas for a floor console at that price!!

I thought the same thing however if you go to the menu there is a separate category for "roof console". Also note that the color is listed as black on many of those and as far as I know the roof consoles do not come in black.

  • Like 1
Posted

Those look to be all roof consoles not floor consoles. Or maybe I'm reading the descriptions wrong? I'd be willing to make a drive to one of those areas for a floor console at that price!!

Looks like it didnt link directly to the option I had selected but if you click "select option" you'll find floor consoles

Posted

$346 Shipped is a steal for a complete console!

I have to agree! I was planning to buy a black leather jump seat with the lower storage compartment to replace my standard gray one but for just a few dollars more I was able to get this!

Posted

Hi there quick question, going to attempt this swap Saturday. For the double cab, do you need to remove any seats or can you muscle the jump seat out and place new center in. (Any tips would be appreciated?

i was wondering the same thing....anyone sucessfully do the swap in a double cab without removing the passenger seat?

Posted

$346 Shipped is a steal for a complete console!

 

Nobody hit the $300.00 buy it now and as of this posting the bid has gone up to $510.00 plus shipping! :crazy:

Posted

i was wondering the same thing....anyone sucessfully do the swap in a double cab without removing the passenger seat?

You need to lossen the 2 rear bolts on the passenger seat to wedge it up to be able to disconnect the connector for the center console, but the passenger seat does not have to be removed, and the jump seat can be removed with the driver and peassenger seats intact.

Posted

You need to lossen the 2 rear bolts on the passenger seat to wedge it up to be able to disconnect the connector for the center console, but the passenger seat does not have to be removed, and the jump seat can be removed with the driver and peassenger seats intact.

thanks!

 

Nobody hit the $300.00 buy it now and as of this posting the bid has gone up to $510.00 plus shipping! :crazy:

thats crazy!

Posted

I have to agree! I was planning to buy a black leather jump seat with the lower storage compartment to replace my standard gray one but for just a few dollars more I was able to get this!

marv, did you end up getting one?

 

im doing a center console swap today and will have available a black leather jump seat w/white stitching if anyone is interested...truck has less than 1000 miles....brandy new :)

Posted

I have a new z71 with the 40/20/40 leather. I miss the console I had in my last truck, but I'm not ready to install the console in the Z71.

Does GM make any sort of storage caddie that goes on the floor in front of the seats?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have a new z71 with the 40/20/40 leather. I miss the console I had in my last truck, but I'm not ready to install the console in the Z71.

Does GM make any sort of storage caddie that goes on the floor in front of the seats?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ive looked around, but couldnt find anything that i thought would look ok in the truck.,.....there are a couple options that i found but look horrible IMO....i sucked it uo and bought the center console and plan on installing today

Posted

ive looked around, but couldnt find anything that i thought would look ok in the truck.,.....there are a couple options that i found but look horrible IMO....i sucked it uo and bought the center console and plan on installing today

That's awesome. Post before and after pics! Let us know how the installation went!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,381 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...