Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nice job. So much better right?

Thanks and yes it is much better! A couple of things I wasn't expecting are the ride is more pleasant without my arm bouncing all over from the jump seat armrest being so flimsy and I now have a nice resting place for my knee on the console. BTW, I was planning to replace the "hockey stick" black trim on the door panels to match the Synthesis trim on the console but after finding out those little pieces of plastic cost about $50.00 each :eek: I decided to just vinyl wrap the console trim in textured black.

Posted

What did you have to do with the center seat? remove it?

WOW they are not cheep!

The jump seat comes out easilly but you have to take it partially apart to get the wiring harness out and if you search around long enough as I did you can find deals (mine was a new truck "take out" I found on eBay for a little more than 1/2 price)

Posted (edited)

Got my console installed finally (mostly). Had to do somewhat of a hurry up job so I didn't get as much documented as would have liked though. The install of the console is pretty easy. Removed the right front seat. Two torx bolts, unplug electrical connector and lift it out of the door. Left the seat belt connected. The bolts are in the rear. lift the rear of the seat to unhook the front. 3 screws to remove the ashtray/storage compartment. Install the bracket in that location with screws already there. Four bolts ( under covers ) and two harness plug ins to remove center seat. Physical installation is straight forward once the old stuff is out of the way. The electrical install is a little challenging but not too bad depending what you want to work. The new console comes with a harness but there is nowhere to plug it in. You can use the original front IP harness to connect the 110v outlet and one 12v outlet in the front of the console. I jumped 12v and ground to the power outlet next to it. I have not yet gotten the front USB ports working. It is a work in progress although I'm not all that confident it will ever work. The USB, audio input jack, SD card outlet and 12v outlet inside the console all work using the harness out of the old seat/console.The inside light needs to be wired to power and ground, and I did that. I think now that I have been through this. I might do it a little different the second time. Probably take both harness out and make one complete harness prior to installation.Frankly I don't need all those USB and 12v outlets anyway. I look at those front USB outlets as a challenge though. Overall I'm very happy with the install. Cost me $575 w/tax at 10% over dealer cost (employee). But that included a USB cable and an accessory tray (highly recommended) . you will need 2 bolts to connect the console the bracket. 6mm thread I think. 10mm head standard GM bolt.

 

CONSOLE 23466995

PLATE 22995086

PANEL 22817347

PANEL 22817349

BRACKET 22776807

ACCESSORY TRAY 22817343

 

 

THE CONSOLE, PLATE AND PANEL PART NUMBERS ARE SPECIFIC TO MY TRUCK OPTION CODES/COLORS

Was your color Cocoa?

 

Edit:

I see the console PN was black so, you don't have Cocoa.

Edited by slickman
Posted

attachicon.gifInterior1resize.jpg

attachicon.gifInterior2resize.jpg

attachicon.gifRPO Edit.jpg

 

 

Whats the difference between the denali and non-denali console? I'm looking to do this after winter.

 

I have the cocoa interior. Looking to get a parts list ready.

 

I have the weather tech over the hump floor liner...I'm wondering If i can install the console over the mat? Maybe I'll need to trim slightly?

 

I am also confused on what panel to buy...they have a lot of options. I need to take a picture of the interior.

 

Insights? You guys know your shit.

Mike

 

 

 

I sent you a PM in hopes to get the part numbers from you. You have the SAME interior I do!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I picked up a console from a guy on ebay but realized he was local (North New Jersey). I just spoke to him and he had 2 left (black) with the silver trim. Complete consoles. Pm me and I'll give you his phone number. He is asking $350+shipping. They are takeoffs from new trucks.

Edited by Toolbox1
Posted

I picked up a console from a guy on ebay but realized he was local (North New Jersey). I just spoke to him and he had 2 left (black) with the silver trim. Complete consoles. Pm me and I'll give you his phone number. He is asking $350+shipping. They are takeoffs from new trucks.

Thats the same guy I bought mine from. Great to deal with and quick shipping.
Posted

A better picture of mine installed. One of the best mods I have made so far.

 

 

post-164287-0-03348900-1501780119_thumb.jpg

post-164287-0-03348900-1501780119_thumb.jpg

post-164287-0-03348900-1501780119_thumb.jpg

post-164287-0-03348900-1501780119_thumb.jpg

Posted

Looks great! What they are bidding these up to on ebay is crazy.

Thanks and i agree ! BTW, on the console swap thread somebody mentioned that if you contact the seller directly he will sell you one for $350.00 plus shipping.

Posted

Did anyone have trouble getting the harness out of the new console? For people like myself that bought used of ebay?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...