Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/1/2017 at 11:16 AM, Eliot said:

Hi pgamboa,

Yesterday I checked the HMI harness made by local shop and they left two pair of wires cut on the left harness (See picture attached), could you tell me what are they for? or do you know were I can get the electrical diagram in order to see what signal is missing? I can not stream music, or use handsfree function, sine I have no audio when I make phone calls.

 

Thanks in advance for your support,

 

 

 

 

IMG-20171031-WA0060.thumb.jpg.cde089eb8e7269e722504bfee2cc1620.jpg

 

BajaKing

You should start a new thread on this.  There are lots of people here waiting on an update from me on a console harness.  I found what I think these wires are for.  Please start a new thread and will help you there.  On the GMUpfitter manual for 2016, Page 1007 of 1617 shows this 16 pin connector.  

 

Thanks,

Posted

Thanks pgamboa, I will start it as soon as I learn how to do it!!!!

 

BajaKing

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Mark Mortenson said:

Finally got time today to do the install. I'm not sure why alot of  post say you have to take out the seat or seats.  I see no reason to remove either seat to install this.  This took about a hour with leaving both seats in.  

20171109_125216.jpg

Really nice looking truck and great job on installing console! Did you get everything connected and working?  I am waiting on my light bar to come in before I contact pgamboa again for help on install.  I want to utilize a couple of the power outlets up front for front LED lights and rear spot lights on mine. I even thought about swapping out the new console front plate with a CB head unit, but I don't do many trails so will just utilize that area for LED light switches and USB ports/110 outlet. 

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, markusarealuis said:

Really nice looking truck and great job on installing console! Did you get everything connected and working?  I am waiting on my light bar to come in before I contact pgamboa again for help on install.  I want to utilize a couple of the power outlets up front for front LED lights and rear spot lights on mine. I even thought about swapping out the new console front plate with a CB head unit, but I don't do many trails so will just utilize that area for LED light switches and USB ports/110 outlet. 

Thanks I'm very happy with it.  I've bought 5 new trucks and every time i wish I had got a center console.   I don't buy a High Country or Denali so they usually have a jump seat.  I plan on keeping this truck a little longer because they are getting to damn expensive.  I just hooked up the cig outlet and 110 volt outlet and waiting for the plug n play harness.  

Posted
may sound a little crazy to you guys but would it be possible to swap out the center console for a jump seat? I have an ltz and would like to take out the center console and put in a jump seat but wasn't sure what all is left exposed under the center console once you take it out.
We can trade my jump seat

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted

***PnP Harness UPDATE***

 

Haven't had much time to work on PnP Console Harnesses, but the ONE harness that was bundled with a console I sold did have snag on install.  The buyer said the connector that I used (that plugs into the under seat connector) did not quite fit and needed modification.  Sounded like there was a "keying" problem.  This is where the connector is slightly different on the housing.  

 

So... I'll need to keep this in "Beta" until I can understand the full requirements for the different years.

 

Thanks,

Posted

got console on its way.  so whats the bottom line here. I have a 2014, I don't care (at all) if all the USBs work as data, as long as at least one does, doesn't matter which one.  I DO want them all to work as chargers though.  What is the EASIEST way to do that.  Minimal cutting and splicing please.  

  • Like 1
Posted
got console on its way.  so whats the bottom line here. I have a 2014, I don't care (at all) if all the USBs work as data, as long as at least one does, doesn't matter which one.  I DO want them all to work as chargers though.  What is the EASIEST way to do that.  Minimal cutting and splicing please.  

If you remove the jumpseat harness and keep intact, you’ll find most of the connections you need. It should allow you plug in:

Rear 12V
Inside Compartment 12v
Inside Compartment USB

The front 12V and 110V outlet will use the existing from your ashtray location.

The front 2nd port will need to be spliced in and can be done with the neighboring Plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


If you remove the jumpseat harness and keep intact, you’ll find most of the connections you need. It should allow you plug in:

Rear 12V
Inside Compartment 12v
Inside Compartment USB

The front 12V and 110V outlet will use the existing from your ashtray location.

The front 2nd port will need to be spliced in and can be done with the neighboring Plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sounds easy enough.  and whats the fast easy way to power (only) the front usbs? 

Posted

Instead of driving the inside Compartment USB, use that connection to drive the front hub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, pgamboa said:

Instead of driving the inside Compartment USB, use that connection to drive the front hub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yea but whats the "easy" way to power the one that is not hooked to the jump seat harness.  I understand it would be power only and not data, and that's fine.  

 

Posted

The hubs need a USB feed (via the USB cable / then on the 6-Pin, it needs power and ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

The glove box HMI has (2) available USB Ports. Green and Black Plug. So, you’ll need a green to gray, and a black to gray to feed both USB hubs, plus the power/ground on the 6-pin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

The glove box HMI has (2) available USB Ports. Green and Black Plug. So, you’ll need a green to gray, and a black to gray to feed both USB hubs, plus the power/ground on the 6-pin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks! and is that easily done once the console is already in?  i.e. can i do the console with the jumpseat harness, get everything working with the exception of the front USB ports, then at a later time do that portion of it?  

Posted

Yep. When you have the harness out, inspect the existing 6-pin that plugs into the USB Hub.

Pin 6 (power) and pin 4 (ground) is the Splice to power up the other Hub. This, along with a USB cable feed from the HMI is all you should need to get a hub working.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 353 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...