Jump to content

Center console swap?

quickvert1

By quickvert1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

bwilliams22685 Enthusiast

bwilliams22685

Posted
Posted

Just as an FYI. I just finished my 2nd console swap and on my 2016 Silverado with a console ordered from a 2016. I was able to get everything to work: console light, USBs inside and on top(data and charging), wireless charger, 110v outlet and all of the 12v sockets

 

Did you have to do anything special to get the USBs to work for data?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

darkfox1
darkfox1

OK.. mine's in.   Here's a writeup, cos I haven't seen one so far.   1. remove the "ash tray" and cig. ligther in your dash with 3 t-10 torx screws, and 2 clips. 2. Remove the radio trim, clips i

dla
dla

I always wanted a RCSB with buckets and a center console...   Received and installed mine yesterday. Very straight forward, thanks for all who posted instructions and part numbers.   Possibly to h

o7bodybagged
o7bodybagged

Finally the console is complete now ready for the install and see what other problems I run into

Posted Images

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

Hey guys my boss just bought a 16 Sierra he wants to do the co sole swap like I did. The radio bezel looks silver not synthesis? The doors are a dark wood grain insert. Not sure what one to go with? Any suggestions or part numbers for those 2 trim.bezels for the console? My truck was all synthesis. His is a slt thanks...

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

nwfd1130 Enthusiast

nwfd1130

Posted
Posted

I am looking to buy a center console if anyone has one for a 2016. I have a 16 Z71 with Black interior and white stitching. Or if anyone has an updated list for the 16's that would be great.

nwfd1130 Enthusiast

nwfd1130

Posted
Posted

Just as an FYI. I just finished my 2nd console swap and on my 2016 Silverado with a console ordered from a 2016. I was able to get everything to work: console light, USBs inside and on top(data and charging), wireless charger, 110v outlet and all of the 12v sockets

If i come up with a console, can you help me out and give some quick tips to get everything to work right?

Techboy2010 Enthusiast

Techboy2010

Posted
Posted

 

Did you have to do anything special to get the USBs to work for data?

 

 

Honestly, I bought a USB cable from Amazon and plugged it into the left side(Back side Mini USB) and then applied power to the wires for the bottom connector. It takes some wiring, but they will work. I then drilled a small hole in the TOP glove box and put a grommet in the hole and then plugged the cable into there... So what I have done is made it where the inside and outside console USB ports work and use the one in the glove box to make the front console USBs to work. I did this because I can always unplug them and I almost never used the one in the glove box.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

That's actually not a bad idea basically like a hub. You got a wire from a USB to a mini usb. Then just hooked up power + and - for charging.?

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

crporte2 Enthusiast

crporte2

Posted
Posted

After doing to console swap, I've got the 3 usbs in the front to charge and play music from my phone but they will not work for CarPlay...the only one that works with CarPlay is the usb in the upper glovebox. Is this normal or should they be working for CarPlay too?

btmachone New Member

btmachone

Posted
Posted

#4 ground, #6 power. 1 photo shows back of 3 slot USB outlet (front). Other shows the very expensive connector you could use.

 

Do you know the wiring for the other 4 pins in this connector? Are they for the 1/4" stereo jack?

  • 3 weeks later...
BellMob Enthusiast

BellMob

Posted
Posted

Anyone have the leftover plastic parts for the lower Dash after your seat to console swap? (Unfortunately) I am going the other way...

 

Looking for something like the below:

 

s-l1600.jpg

meanchevy1 Enthusiast

meanchevy1

Posted
Posted

Anyone have the leftover plastic parts for the lower Dash after your seat to console swap? (Unfortunately) I am going the other way...

 

Looking for something like the below:

 

s-l1600.jpg

PM sent

14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

Anyone have the leftover plastic parts for the lower Dash after your seat to console swap? (Unfortunately) I am going the other way...

 

Looking for something like the below:

 

s-l1600.jpg

Pm sent

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
17whiterado New Member

17whiterado

Posted
Posted

just bought a 2017, got a great deal but the only bummer is I couldn't find one with a center console.

 

would like to buy one or see if anyone wants to trade for a new jump seat + cash...

  • Like 1
jschwall New Member

jschwall

Posted
Posted

Tried to order all 5parts for the conversion. Paid thinking 75 for shipping. Got an email saying an extra 100 in shipping for parts. Anyone else. Pay that for shipping?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...