Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So far...

  • Battery conversion (running 2 deep cycle marine batteries, 1 dedicated to the truck, 1 dedicated to alternate/backup power)
  • 1400 watt inverter under rear driver side seat
  • Leer Bed Topper (not the best look, but great in Colorado mountain winter)
  • Rhino Lined the bed
  • LED lights running under both bed rails (operated by 2 switches in the bed)
  • Outdoor rated AC power outlet in the bed (connects to inverter, I camped in the topper on a -20 F night using a mattress pad, sleeping bag, and a heat blanket - awesome !!)
  • Leveling Kit
  • Removed front air dam
  • Window tint (match front to back)
Still want...
  • Rain guards for windows
  • More aggressive tires
  • OEM style fender flares
  • Some interior lighting stuff
Overall, the electrical work has been my most aggressive addition, it's pretty awesome to use in the back country.

 

Pics!

Sorry for the double post! Phone glitched for a second and must've hit post twice

Posted

I want two batteries.

Ditto. Would make it easier when adding some aftermarket items that use wire harnesses. Then you don't have to worry about overloading the main battery or possibly messing up something for the main system.

Posted

Leveled the truck today. 2" rc kit. Still a little rake. May take out the rear blocks.

post-133073-0-70053200-1408117491_thumb.jpg

post-133073-0-70053200-1408117491_thumb.jpg

post-133073-0-70053200-1408117491_thumb.jpg

post-133073-0-70053200-1408117491_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Here is my electrical conversion setup:

 

I have 2 Interstate MT7 AMG deep cycle batteries under the hood. These have better performance under adverse conditions (cold being my primary concern), still provide adequate cranking amps when the battery is low, and are meant to be discharged/charged without hurting the battery life (note: normal car batteries are not designed to be discharged all the way and then recharged, their lead will not properly re-plate upon recharging.) If you want to keep it simple, just put one of these in your truck, they are much better than normal car batteries.

 

photo_2.jpg

 

photo_1.jpg

 

My alternator runs through a Stinger battery isolator and relay, which distributes charge to the 2 batteries and isolates them during discharge, so I can completely discharge my secondary battery without worrying about cranking. Or, I can completely discharge my main battery and jump my truck from the secondary (this should happen automatically, but I have cables if it doesn't.) I was somewhat concerned that the stock alternator wouldn't be able to handle this setup, but an expert automotive electrician told me otherwise, and I haven't had any problems over the last ~8 months.

 

photo_3.jpg

 

My secondary battery is currently wired to 2 places - the inverter under my back seat, and to the LED light setup I have in the bed. When the inverter is on, it provides power to an outdoor rated ac power receptacle in the bed. There are 2 open outlets to power electronics inside my truck (phones, laptops, & other equipment that I need when working in the field).

 

photo_4.jpg

 

photo_5.jpg

(~ bed is currently a mess, and I'm in the process of rewiring the LED switches because the wire won't stay tucked under the bed rail during off-road driving)

 

Overall, I've been very satisfied. I've camped in the bed in relative comfort during adverse conditions (-20 F + blizzard was the worst night I believe). All of the air gaps under my bed rail are sealed to prevent drafts and I have an inflatable "donut" that seals my trucks back window to the topper. It still gets cold in the topper on those nights, but a 3 inch mattress topper, -20 F sleeping bag, and a heat blanket are plenty to stay comfortable. In the morning, I just fire up the truck (remote start) ~10 minutes before I get out of the sleeping bag, and I keep a Mr. Heater Tough Buddy handy if that isn't enough.

Edited by sanforce
  • Like 7
Posted (edited)

Wow, you've been busy. Any pics of the fender flares?

 

I still haven't actually added these on yet, but these are the flares I'm looking at.

 

40956-02_v7_20131213_0.jpg

 

edit: You GMC guys are lucky, I really like the look of those stock fender flares.

 

edit 2: I'd also really like to upgrade my exhaust to get something a little throatier than stock. However, I don't want it to be obnoxious at all, so I'd really like to hear a few different exhaust setups before I pursue this. Also, the V8/V4 transition *could* sound like crap with the wrong exhaust system.

Edited by sanforce
Posted

Here is my electrical conversion setup:

 

I have 2 Interstate MT7 AMG deep cycle batteries under the hood. These have better performance under adverse conditions (cold being my primary concern), still provide adequate cranking amps when the battery is low, and are meant to be discharged/charged without hurting the battery life (note: normal car batteries are not designed to be discharged all the way and then recharged, their lead will not properly re-plate upon recharging.) If you want to keep it simple, just put one of these in your truck, they are much better than normal car batteries.

 

Overall, I've been very satisfied. I've camped in the bed in relative comfort during adverse conditions (-20 F + blizzard was the worst night I believe). All of the air gaps under my bed rail are sealed to prevent drafts and I have an inflatable "donut" that seals my trucks back window to the topper. It still gets cold in the topper on those nights, but a 3 inch mattress topper, -20 F sleeping bag, and a heat blanket are plenty to stay comfortable. In the morning, I just fire up the truck (remote start) ~10 minutes before I get out of the sleeping bag, and I keep a Mr. Heater Tough Buddy handy if that isn't enough.

 

 

Excellent. Thanks for the pics and details.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I still haven't actually added these on yet, but these are the flares I'm looking at.

 

40956-02_v7_20131213_0.jpg

 

edit: You GMC guys are lucky, I really like the look of those stock fender flares.

 

edit 2: I'd also really like to upgrade my exhaust to get something a little throatier than stock. However, I don't want it to be obnoxious at all, so I'd really like to hear a few different exhaust setups before I pursue this. Also, the V8/V4 transition *could* sound like crap with the wrong exhaust system.

 

 

I really like the GMC flares too. Too bad they won't fit our Silvys.

Posted

Here is my electrical conversion setup:

 

I have 2 Interstate MT7 AMG deep cycle batteries under the hood. These have better performance under adverse conditions (cold being my primary concern), still provide adequate cranking amps when the battery is low, and are meant to be discharged/charged without hurting the battery life (note: normal car batteries are not designed to be discharged all the way and then recharged, their lead will not properly re-plate upon recharging.) If you want to keep it simple, just put one of these in your truck, they are much better than normal car batteries.

 

photo_2.jpg

 

photo_1.jpg

 

My alternator runs through a Stinger battery isolator and relay, which distributes charge to the 2 batteries and isolates them during discharge, so I can completely discharge my secondary battery without worrying about cranking. Or, I can completely discharge my main battery and jump my truck from the secondary (this should happen automatically, but I have cables if it doesn't.) I was somewhat concerned that the stock alternator wouldn't be able to handle this setup, but an expert automotive electrician told me otherwise, and I haven't had any problems over the last ~8 months.

 

photo_3.jpg

 

My secondary battery is currently wired to 2 places - the inverter under my back seat, and to the LED light setup I have in the bed. When the inverter is on, it provides power to an outdoor rated ac power receptacle in the bed. There are 2 open outlets to power electronics inside my truck (phones, laptops, & other equipment that I need when working in the field).

 

photo_4.jpg

 

photo_5.jpg

(~ bed is currently a mess, and I'm in the process of rewiring the LED switches because the wire won't stay tucked under the bed rail during off-road driving)

 

Overall, I've been very satisfied. I've camped in the bed in relative comfort during adverse conditions (-20 F + blizzard was the worst night I believe). All of the air gaps under my bed rail are sealed to prevent drafts and I have an inflatable "donut" that seals my trucks back window to the topper. It still gets cold in the topper on those nights, but a 3 inch mattress topper, -20 F sleeping bag, and a heat blanket are plenty to stay comfortable. In the morning, I just fire up the truck (remote start) ~10 minutes before I get out of the sleeping bag, and I keep a Mr. Heater Tough Buddy handy if that isn't enough.

I LOVE this idea. I basically live out of a suitcase, and my truck.. Would be awesome to be able to crash in the back with a heater. How did you run the wiring for the plug cluster in the bed? Looks like I might skip the tonneau, and get a topper!

Here is my electrical conversion setup:

 

I have 2 Interstate MT7 AMG deep cycle batteries under the hood. These have better performance under adverse conditions (cold being my primary concern), still provide adequate cranking amps when the battery is low, and are meant to be discharged/charged without hurting the battery life (note: normal car batteries are not designed to be discharged all the way and then recharged, their lead will not properly re-plate upon recharging.) If you want to keep it simple, just put one of these in your truck, they are much better than normal car batteries.

 

photo_2.jpg

 

photo_1.jpg

 

My alternator runs through a Stinger battery isolator and relay, which distributes charge to the 2 batteries and isolates them during discharge, so I can completely discharge my secondary battery without worrying about cranking. Or, I can completely discharge my main battery and jump my truck from the secondary (this should happen automatically, but I have cables if it doesn't.) I was somewhat concerned that the stock alternator wouldn't be able to handle this setup, but an expert automotive electrician told me otherwise, and I haven't had any problems over the last ~8 months.

 

photo_3.jpg

 

My secondary battery is currently wired to 2 places - the inverter under my back seat, and to the LED light setup I have in the bed. When the inverter is on, it provides power to an outdoor rated ac power receptacle in the bed. There are 2 open outlets to power electronics inside my truck (phones, laptops, & other equipment that I need when working in the field).

 

photo_4.jpg

 

photo_5.jpg

(~ bed is currently a mess, and I'm in the process of rewiring the LED switches because the wire won't stay tucked under the bed rail during off-road driving)

 

Overall, I've been very satisfied. I've camped in the bed in relative comfort during adverse conditions (-20 F + blizzard was the worst night I believe). All of the air gaps under my bed rail are sealed to prevent drafts and I have an inflatable "donut" that seals my trucks back window to the topper. It still gets cold in the topper on those nights, but a 3 inch mattress topper, -20 F sleeping bag, and a heat blanket are plenty to stay comfortable. In the morning, I just fire up the truck (remote start) ~10 minutes before I get out of the sleeping bag, and I keep a Mr. Heater Tough Buddy handy if that isn't enough.

I LOVE this idea. I basically live out of a suitcase, and my truck.. Would be awesome to be able to crash in the back with a heater. How did you run the wiring for the plug cluster in the bed? Looks like I might skip the tonneau, and get a topper!

Posted

I know this sounds stupid but do t have to remove the covers from those lights to use them

Posted

Today I got bored so I swapped out the whitish yellow ambient LED to a nicer blue one.

 

y2e8ane7.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...