Jump to content

What have you done to your K2 today?

block8head

By block8head
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted (edited)

How did you set that up?

Lol is held on by very think velcro strips. The only way to make it look factory is by removing the stock stereo and I'm not doing that just yet. Maybe once the truck is old. Overall it looks good, you can't see the velcro and the tablet fits perfect. You do get the gaps on the side but it doesn't look ugly.

When I get some time off I'm going to make it so it gets held on by magnets. Attach magnets to the tablets case then put some behind the trim piece. Make it more clean for when the tablet is not there.

Edited by NitroDatsik
  • Like 1
  • Replies 23.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

RKeeper1
RKeeper1

Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days!   Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Mileguru
Mileguru

I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.  

pgamboa
pgamboa

Found an hour of free time yesterday and installed GM - Illuminated Door Sills. Love the way they look! Of course, made a how to video. The box didn't come with instructions and tried searching he

Posted Images

Sicmab Enthusiast

Sicmab

Posted
Posted

Few things got done today ...

 

Driver assist handle:

post-134871-142215515412_thumb.jpg

 

Step rail lighting:

post-134871-142215518269_thumb.jpg

 

AVS AeroSkin bug guard:

post-134871-142215523201_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215515412_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215518269_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215523201_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215515412_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215518269_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215523201_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215515412_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215518269_thumb.jpg

post-134871-142215523201_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted (edited)

Few things got done today ...

 

Driver assist handle:

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1422155152.683559.jpg

 

I've been thinking about the driver handle, I still use the steering wheel but I might try the handle especially since it's pretty cheap. Does the stock panel just pop off? I know there's 2 tabs that you bolt the handle to, just wondering if the factory panel just pops off without having to do it any special way.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
Sicmab Enthusiast

Sicmab

Posted
Posted

 

I've been thinking about the driver handle, I still use the steering wheel but I might try the handle especially since it's pretty cheap. Does the stock panel just pop off? I know there's 2 tabs that you bolt the handle to, just wondering if the factory panel just pops off without having to do it any special way.

You know what bro? I have to be honest. I think I did it all wrong. My handle is slightly loose and only comes with one real tab that pins on the body. But yes, the factory panel just comes off

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

You know what bro? I have to be honest. I think I did it all wrong. My handle is slightly loose and only comes with one real tab that pins on the body. But yes, the factory panel just comes off

The handle has 1 tab that goes into the frame. Then it has 2 holes for 2 bolts that go into 2 nuts that are welded to the frame already. If done correctly then there shouldn't be any play.
  • Like 2
Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

Yeah, the handle is the second easiest thing to do after the diodes and wires for jumping BCM connections. 5 to 10 minutes. Also, once you get used to it being there you will use every time. Just another thing the truck should have come with, like the tailgate lock popper.

  • Like 1
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got plenty of work done on the truck today! So here's a few pictures and what is different incase you can't tell.

 

So let's go from front to back of the truck,

I removed my failed HIDs and replaced them with the OEMS halogens, man did I forget how lousy these things are. Honestly, the DOT pods are better than the OEM headlights IMO.

 

Next I went ahead and cleaned up the engine compartment of some of the wiring I have added. This mainly consisted of the HID harness and the harness for my light bars. I wired in a new wireless controlled harness for the lights and man is it cool! I think the main "cool" factor centers around the fact that I now have a few different strobe patterns that I can make the light bars flash to, and I was able to program the on/off function to one of the garage door opener buttons in the truck.

Video of strobe patterns:

 

 

 

Picture of my newly uncluttered engine compartment near the air intake

6C4DD90A-CFCF-486D-83F5-D03F5F269D55_zps

 

I ran the wires through the dead space behind the headlights. It's a great spot to run wires to conceal them. Wish I would've taken more pictures of how well hidden everything is now.

I had to drill a hole as GM decided to put a plastic blocker on the passenger side but on the driver side it was completely open.

E048F18F-A59F-4FD7-8F37-6F133106FD42_zps

 

Next on the chopping block we have the grille! Haha, get it? Chopping block, grille? Cooking!

Well, bad puns aside, I decided I would pull the chrome inserts out and pull off the black plastidip so that they could once again be chrome. Honestly, not sure if I like it better with them black or chrome. Kinda feel like having them chrome may be a bit too much chrome and keeps the GMC from standing out as much. But that's just me, I'm curious to hear what yall think.

 

Chrome:

1DE94BCA-4B88-48EA-8E3F-5C449442AEB4_zps

Black:

D10DE7CD-5115-4C96-B88A-EFA6D4D42170_zps

 

And last but not least, we have the only true addition of the day, some anti tailgater lights

37818798-84FB-4D43-8532-C852086AC3D0_zps

6B39A51D-7542-458C-B980-5C3573AED65E_zps

I decided I would move the D2s to the rear bumper. Will give me just that extra little bit of light, you know, for those times when the light I already have isn't enough [emoji6] or just for whenever someone starts tailgating me, I can get rid of them real fast [emoji4] only thing is I didn't get to wire them in, however, I will be doing that before the weekend is over, but only as a temporary wiring set up until I can get some rigid industries (or some knock offs) connectors to hook onto my wire harness. I am hoping I can hook into the positive feed of the trailer wiring for the harness since to the best of my knowledge, that feed comes directly from the battery so it should have full power.

 

And that should bring everything up to speed. Now here's a couple random shots I took today.

 

Just a side shot. Really annoyed that my 2" level kit isn't really keeping the truck leveled. It looked great for the first few months. But now it's got a slight nose dive [emoji19]

766FA4D6-6094-43BA-B104-F0887C4AC3BA_zps

 

And a front picture when I was putting in the new wire harness. Walking out of the garage, the truck looked a bit like a pirate truck since it only has one "eye" or headlight

BC5CF7B6-7E99-4111-AB9D-5E6812192A29_zps

Edited by Mike1220
  • Like 3
f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted

Mike thanks for all your pics and info bro. Truck looks f bad ass

  • Like 1
mkeddie Enthusiast

mkeddie

Posted
Posted

Wow just went thru 163 pages of mods in 3 days.....think it might be alittle to much info in one spot Lmao

  • Like 1
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Got the truck washed today, beautiful weather out in Dallas today so decided to snap some pictures. Showing off the new exhaust and new GM black sidesteps.

 

uf63hOB.jpg

 

 

vFoq6DT.jpg

 

 

tv8JZcX.jpg

 

 

CJxfdiV.jpg

 

 

AF3EKFi.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Sjjr613 Enthusiast

Sjjr613

Posted
Posted

Got the truck washed today, beautiful weather out in Dallas today so decided to snap some pictures. Showing off the new exhaust and new GM black sidesteps.

 

uf63hOB.jpg

 

 

vFoq6DT.jpg

 

 

tv8JZcX.jpg

 

 

CJxfdiV.jpg

 

 

AF3EKFi.jpg

 

 

 

Hows are u liking the sound?
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Hows are u liking the sound?

Really good man. Sounds great on the highway and driving around the city. There is that minor "helicopter" sound but I've had passengers in it all day and no one has said a thing. Really only there if you are looking for it. I'll post some sound videos later this week. Couldn't get ahold of my go-pro today.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...