Jump to content

What have you done to your K2 today?

block8head

By block8head
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

EaZ8 Enthusiast

EaZ8

Posted
Posted (edited)

I personally dont understand why the ambers are needed to be on at all. I dont believe doing this is illegal in Canada, may be illegal in the States.

 

Then again, I see lots of cars out there with no amber running light stock

in canada you just need some sort of DRL, which could be white or amber. no need for both.

and around here, cops dont even bother anyone about DRL's, its more just when you need to get he safety inspections done when transferring ownership.

 

ide love to disable the DRL that runs on my low beam..

Edited by EaZ8
  • Replies 23.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

RKeeper1
RKeeper1

Hauled this precious cargo home for the first time from the NICU after 40 days!   Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Mileguru
Mileguru

I installed this thingy on the top of my 2017 6.2L. Not really sure what it does, but my truck goes really fast now.  

pgamboa
pgamboa

Found an hour of free time yesterday and installed GM - Illuminated Door Sills. Love the way they look! Of course, made a how to video. The box didn't come with instructions and tried searching he

Posted Images

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

in canada you just need some sort of DRL, which could be white or amber. no need for both.

and around here, cops dont even bother anyone about DRL's, its more just when you need to get he safety inspections done when transferring ownership.

 

ide love to disable the DRL that runs on my low beam..

For the Sierra you'll have to pull the headlight out to make this a lot simpler. DangerDick is correct, you have to cut the GREEN wire on both sides as that is your running light wire.

 

I have some wiring running back into the cab now that allows me to turn the ambers on and off when the running lights are on so if I ever want them on, I just have to flip a switch [emoji4]

 

Here's a picture of my harness:

280C9F13-6EC0-4D71-9B47-21290E8AA04B_zps

 

I have the VLED V3 triton. I really like how this set up works because it makes the blinker much more noticeable (well, mine is easily noticeable without the disabling mod cause it's so damn bright!)

 

You will NOT get a hyperflash and NO OTHER FUNCTIONS WILL BE AFFECTED. The only thing that will happen is you will no longer have amber running lights [emoji106] as I said, turn signals and hazards still work just fine.

 

Just a few more pictures to show what it looks like

 

27550D66-1F6C-4715-9B35-241B75519A89_zps

B1AA1369-E9CC-43FF-8834-F005531B802B_zps

7C9661B8-2A5D-4E7C-AAAF-930290D3C588_zps

 

I just created a thread for doing this

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/169020-Disable-Amber-running-lights

Colt54qg Enthusiast

Colt54qg

Posted
Posted

Its been long over due of what ive done so far: got my windows and windshield tinted, added a gibson exhaust, added floor lights, added lights to the center console that come one at night, swapped out headlights for projector lights and HID, plastidipped bowties and side emblems, rough country 2.5" lift, swapped stock tires for 275/77R18 exo grapplers, plastidipped rims (need to be redone after getting my tires)

med_gallery_133438_2998_892935.jpg

med_gallery_133438_2998_59490.jpg

med_gallery_133438_2998_80941.jpg

med_gallery_133438_2998_551369.jpg

How hard was it to plastic dip the side emblems?

Looks great man.

chromanowski Enthusiast

chromanowski

Posted
Posted

How hard was it to plastic dip the side emblems?

Looks great man.

Thanks, it was no harder than doing the bow ties. Just have to mask off around the emblems. The one issue i had was that the plastidip would not come off clean around the letters so I would take a razor or something and go around the letters to make sure it doesnt peel off the letters.

f8l vnm Senior Enthusiast

f8l vnm

Posted
Posted

Mike , danger dick...sorry to ask you again but just simply cut the green wire on each side of the head light and tape it up ? That's it ?

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Mike , danger dick...sorry to ask you again but just simply cut the green wire on each side of the head light and tape it up ? That's it ?

Yes. Just cut the wire on both sides of the truck and bam. No more Amber running lights. You can cover them however you choose. Tape is the easiest.

 

Here's a thread for this mod

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/169020-Disable-Amber-running-lights

Colt54qg Enthusiast

Colt54qg

Posted
Posted

Thanks, it was no harder than doing the bow ties. Just have to mask off around the emblems. The one issue i had was that the plastidip would not come off clean around the letters so I would take a razor or something and go around the letters to make sure it doesnt peel off the letters.

Thats what I was thinking. Ill just spray the whole thing paint and all and then razor the edges and peel it off the pain. Thanks man.

Colt54qg Enthusiast

Colt54qg

Posted
Posted

Thanks, it was no harder than doing the bow ties. Just have to mask off around the emblems. The one issue i had was that the plastidip would not come off clean around the letters so I would take a razor or something and go around the letters to make sure it doesnt peel off the letters.

post-130620-142265752379_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265753614_thumb.jpg

 

Done. Thanks again.

post-130620-142265752379_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265753614_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265752379_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265753614_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265752379_thumb.jpg

post-130620-142265753614_thumb.jpg

EChavez Enthusiast

EChavez

Posted
Posted

Colormatched the rear bumper with about $15 worth of paint. Doing the front bumper tomorrow :)

 

rji7p0.jpg

  • Like 1
K2jer Enthusiast

K2jer

Posted
Posted

For the Amber turn mod. Why not just break off the wire terminal on the bulb so you aren't cutting your truck harness and then install a new blub when you need to go back to amber?

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

For the Amber turn mod. Why not just break off the wire terminal on the bulb so you aren't cutting your truck harness and then install a new blub when you need to go back to amber?

I haven't checked the bulbs but don't they only have 2 terminals? Ground and power.
Colt54qg Enthusiast

Colt54qg

Posted
Posted

Can someone point me to a write up about installing a switch at the rear to turn on my bed cargo lights so I don't have to turn them on at the cab?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...