Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Seller of my kit (not rough country but looks very similar) just sent me a full refund, but I guess I need to take it all apart again and see if I can slide bolt down through the top to stop the rubbing. I already had the alignment done and it looks so much better than stock, I can't go back now. At least it will go much, much faster now that I know how it all comes apart and goes back together.

Posted (edited)

I watched the videos online thinking I could get the spacer in there without dropping off the knuckle but that is just impossible on this truck. Must unbolt from knuckle and use bottle jack underneath for support.

 

Ok. So it is possible to move the cv axle completely out of the way and slide the bolt down from the top. Just had to loosen everything up more than I did at first and my instructions and other things I saw had the locknut on top. Thanks for the help. I was a little timid at first on dropping it all down since videos like this suggest it can be done easily without dropping stuff off the knukle and everything:

 

That video is not correct for anybody who has a truck like mine. Hopefully save some people headaches if they can see this posting before wrenching on a 14' z71 with steel control arms. You will never squeeze the block in without dropping completely off the knuckle and the strut bolt needs to be dropped down through the top to provide enough clearance under cv shaft. See :52 in video "this nut left on"...this nut must be removed. A bottle jack placed under the knuckle on bottom will help you keep everything from flopping around too much. As in video, you do not need to remove control arm bolt and bushing--that can be backed off and left loose. Rough country video instructions online are also wrong and definitely contain unneccessary steps.

 

Any idea why the RC leveling kit for steel control arms is made out of nylon/plastic. Are there problems using aluminum on steel or something? I hope not...not interested in doing the install another time.

Edited by johne
Posted

I watched the videos online thinking I could get the spacer in there without dropping off the knuckle but that is just impossible on this truck. Must unbolt from knuckle and use bottle jack underneath for support.

 

Ok. So it is possible to move the cv axle completely out of the way and slide the bolt down from the top. Just had to loosen everything up more than I did at first and my instructions and other things I saw had the locknut on top. Thanks for the help. I was a little timid at first on dropping it all down since videos like this suggest it can be done easily without dropping stuff off the knukle and everything:

 

That video is not correct for anybody who has a truck like mine. Hopefully save some people headaches if they can see this posting before wrenching on a 14' z71 with steel control arms. You will never squeeze the block in without dropping completely off the knuckle and the strut bolt needs to be dropped down through the top to provide enough clearance under cv shaft. See :52 in video "this nut left on"...this nut must be removed. A bottle jack placed under the knuckle on bottom will help you keep everything from flopping around too much. As in video, you do not need to remove control arm bolt and bushing--that can be backed off and left loose. Rough country video instructions online are also wrong and definitely contain unneccessary steps.

 

Any idea why the RC leveling kit for steel control arms is made out of nylon/plastic. Are there problems using aluminum on steel or something? I hope not...not interested in doing the install another time.

As for as your control arms being steel I have only seen them on the 4X4's not on the Z71 model yet I have heard some people complain that they had steel instead of aluminum control arms on their Z71's. RC leveling kits for steel and aluminum control arms are the same the only difference is the bolts for the aluminum control arms are longer. The nylon/plastic is designed to cut down on any vibration that may take place. I did not have to remove my cv axle.

Posted

As for as your control arms being steel I have only seen them on the 4X4's not on the Z71 model yet I have heard some people complain that they had steel instead of aluminum control arms on their Z71's. RC leveling kits for steel and aluminum control arms are the same the only difference is the bolts for the aluminum control arms are longer. The nylon/plastic is designed to cut down on any vibration that may take place. I did not have to remove my cv axle.

Actually, I was researching it a little more and it actually seems somewhat random on who got aluminum control arms and who got steel. Many people with z71 4x4s have posted that they have steel. But some aluminum. It is the z60 package that typically comes with aluminum and is really supposed to be more of an on road tuned suspension. However, some z71s actually come with the z60 package??? Mine is an lt double cab z71 4x4 all star edition.

Posted

2014 Silverado 4x4 Z71 with aluminum control arms.

post-127588-0-07588800-1406828856_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-39679100-1406828866_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-80038900-1406828878_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-07588800-1406828856_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-39679100-1406828866_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-80038900-1406828878_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-07588800-1406828856_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-39679100-1406828866_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-80038900-1406828878_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-07588800-1406828856_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-39679100-1406828866_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-80038900-1406828878_thumb.jpg

Posted

Actually, I was researching it a little more and it actually seems somewhat random on who got aluminum control arms and who got steel. Many people with z71 4x4s have posted that they have steel. But some aluminum. It is the z60 package that typically comes with aluminum and is really supposed to be more of an on road tuned suspension. However, some z71s actually come with the z60 package??? Mine is an lt double cab z71 4x4 all star edit

Oh you have a double cab that explains it. All the crew cab Z71s have aluminum to cut down on weight from what I'm told. On the double cabs it is like you said hit and miss on which models get steel or aluminum.

Posted

Oh you have a double cab that explains it. All the crew cab Z71s have aluminum to cut down on weight from what I'm told. On the double cabs it is like you said hit and miss on which models get steel or aluminum.

 

Mine is a Z71 crew cab and it has steel control arms.

 

This has not been mentioned yet but there is two different lengths of rancho front struts. Look at readlifts website, they give you a bunch of info about this. I've seen it on the local dealers lot. Two stock Z71s sitting side by side and one visibly sat higher in the front. Whipped out the tape and sure enough, some trucks have a 2.5" rack and some only have a 1"+ rack (extended length strut). There was no spacer/leveling kit on the truck that sat higher in the front. You need to measure your stock rack before ordering a level kit.

Posted

Actually, I was researching it a little more and it actually seems somewhat random on who got aluminum control arms and who got steel. Many people with z71 4x4s have posted that they have steel. But some aluminum. It is the z60 package that typically comes with aluminum and is really supposed to be more of an on road tuned suspension. However, some z71s actually come with the z60 package??? Mine is an lt double cab z71 4x4 all star edition.

I had 4x2 5.3L Dbl Cab with steal arms.
Posted

 

Mine is a Z71 crew cab and it has steel control arms.

 

This has not been mentioned yet but there is two different lengths of rancho front struts. Look at readlifts website, they give you a bunch of info about this. I've seen it on the local dealers lot. Two stock Z71s sitting side by side and one visibly sat higher in the front. Whipped out the tape and sure enough, some trucks have a 2.5" rack and some only have a 1"+ rack (extended length strut). There was no spacer/leveling kit on the truck that sat higher in the front. You need to measure your stock rack before ordering a level kit.

Man, these trucks are all over the place on this. Mine had a stupid looking nose dive face plant look on it when I got it. I'm pretty sure I must have the one that came with extended strut length which explains why I could not squeeze in the spacer like the guy did in the video above and also explains why the strut bolts must be installed head up with the locknut on the bottom in the particular configuration of my truck that seems to be 1"+ rack with steel control arms. I am going to send this info to the seller of my leveling kit, they are still selling it as fitting all 2014 silverados...but clearly it does not, at least not as their installation instructions describe.

Posted

You would think these trucks would be more uniform. As far a having steel and aluminum control arms on the Z71s I wonder if it is depends on if it is an GMC or Chevy. I know that all the GMC Crew Cab Z71s I have seen have had aluminum have not looked under to many Chevys. I do know all Double Cab and 4X4s in the GMC line that I have seen have steel control arms.

I'm also starting to wonder if the models such as LS, LT,LTZ or SL, SLE, SLT have anything to do with what trucks get the steel or aluminum control arms and are the ones coming with the max tow, denali or high country packages getting the extended length struts. Would be very interested in knowing why these trucks look to have so many random set ups in the suspension

Posted

 

i will take a pic tomorrow.

 

EDIT: Do you have a 4wd or 2wd?

 

 

Correct. They offer two kits, one for the steel control arms and one for the aluminum. I have the aluminum control arms and ordered the kit for the aluminum control arms. i tripled checked before placing my order. i literally followed the instructions step by step as i wanted to be 100% sure i didn't miss anything. i even disconnected the battery before working on my truck which i NEVER do. i read on a f150 forum that some of their issues with their EPS racks is that when doing the leveling kit and not disconnecting the batter it messed up the rack. i am not sure if there is any correlation but i didn't want to risk and it and it only took me 1 min.

 

How would I know if I have steel or aluminum? I will admit I have [emoji768] researched a lot.

Crew Cab = Aluminum.

 

Double Cab = Steel.

So regular cab is steel too?

Posted (edited)

How would I know if I have steel or aluminum? I will admit I have [emoji768] researched a lot.

 

So regular cab is steel too?

 

 

This is an aluminum lower arm and knuckle. Notice the silver-gray color of a bare aluminum forging. All the aluminum lower arms are bare forgings. My crewcab is steel. The factory did not seem to have a rhyme or reason for installing the aluminum lower arms.

 

That video shows a steel control arm. It's painted black and of thinner cross-section in about all areas.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/uploads/monthly_07_2014/post-127588-0-07588800-1406828856.jpg

Edited by spurshot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,401 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...