Is there a fix for the cold start tick?

Gurrzt · April 26, 2014

I have a suspicion that the “TICK” you are referring to is the fuel injectors and is normal.

if the noise goes away after about 30 sec. then it's piston slap, if it continues i would say injectors cycling. the only fix that i'm aware of is by removing the pistons, and replacing with better ones...rebuild. not worth it unless motor is shot. just do what everyone else is doing, ignore it till the motor needs rebuilding, or trade in for newer..

good luck

Sara (2001 Z28 LS1) is going to be 14 years old this December, and sounds like a "sewing machine" every time I start her up, the engine quiets down after 2 minuets.

I agree 100% with the above analogies.

dougiethenoo · July 10, 2019

I have a 2006 Sierra 5.3, it has just started making a clacking noise when cold, this started after a heavy 500 miles of towing. 170k miles on it. It is accompanied by fault codes 101, 171 - and a strong rich exhaust smell when the heater is on. Plus a bit of a misfire immediately after starting... so do I have an exhaust leak, an intake gasket leak (lean), piston slap, gummed up hydraulic valve lash adjustment, or some combination of all 4? - it also makes the clicking sound on heavy acceleration when engine rpm is low.. which sounds like "pinking" or early ignition. Otherwise runs smoothly when warmed up. What should I check first?

Brenthaylett · February 5, 2020

check compression on all 8. if low, rebuld it. if not u could dig in. idk if i could decide where to start, unless u have solved all these issues, cuz that post was in july.

greatmizzou · February 5, 2020

Slightly thicker oil is quieter for me.

You should listen to older Honda engines, my wifes 06' civic and 14' crv both have a constant ticking noise that is completely normal. Odd thing is they require valve adjustment tuning after 100k mi

TXGREEK · February 5, 2020

You guys have got to try switching oils, for me everyone knows I’m extremely happy with Amsoil, keeps my engine quiet but there are many great oils out there for which you can experiment with. Some oils perform much better than others based on your engines specific tolerances. I’ve heard great things about Schaefer’s oil as well as a couple others. Experiment and see what may work better for you. Good luck!

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Grumpy Bear · February 5, 2020

About 30,000 miles ago I started Pepper up one morning after she has sat for about three weeks and she scared me with that ticking loud enough to have my shop come to the house for a listen. Of course it didn't do it when I started it for him. Just did it again this past week after sitting nearly a month. Started every day it's quite. My bet is lifter bleed down. Not a worry for me.

TXGREEK · February 5, 2020

About 30,000 miles ago I started Pepper up one morning after she has sat for about three weeks and she scared me with that ticking loud enough to have my shop come to the house for a listen. Of course it didn't do it when I started it for him. Just did it again this past week after sitting nearly a month. Started every day it's quite. My bet is lifter bleed down. Not a worry for me.

There should be a button that electronically shoots your oil back up top to lube after sitting for a very long time. Back when I first bought my truck, I noticed just a bit then started using my favorite oil, went away. Last December I left my truck for 18 days as I was overseas and wondered about if I’d hear anything different, nope. Even though I’ve seen others bring it up in motors such as yours and mine, I wonder if it’s more prominent in the 5.3’s? My wife’s 16 Yukon with the 5.3 did it too but reduced it to eventually disappeared after a few oil changes with my favorite oil. I’d highly recommend those with ticking issues give it a try, and see what works for them in order to help quiet it down or stop it cause that ticking only makes me think it’s added wear friction which eventually will lead to major failure.

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sefiroxx · February 8, 2020

Go to 10-30. Might lose .5 mpg, but thicker

When letting it sit for a long time, pull injector or ignition fuses and crankv a few times to pull it up. Put fuses back and start.

Grumpy Bear · February 8, 2020

So no one has had a catastrophic failure of any kind and no one knows for SURE what this is. Old post, common problem, no resolution. Did I get that right?

TXGREEK · February 8, 2020

So no one has had a catastrophic failure of any kind and no one knows for SURE what this is. Old post, common problem, no resolution. Did I get that right?

The thing is, who would know what would’ve caused it. Out of all the catastrophic failures, no one was using high performance oil, oil such as Amsoil, Redline etc etc. From what I’ve gathered, there’s an immediate rush to put blame on the manufacturers quality issues and non on the maintenance. We all know that these engines get filthy and fast, have tendency to have lots of carbon build up but why hasn’t knowing this inspired anyone to use better oils, oils with higher cleaning powers especially if the owner is going to do long OCI’s. I’ve mentioned before that my wifes 2016 Yukon with the 5.3 had the infamous GM tick and when I switched it to Amsoil Signature Series, it all but completely disappeared.

I’ve also heard that the American Petroleum Institute is talking about reevaluating it’s testing due to the newer engines requirements and EPAs stringent fuel saving requirements creating premature havoc on engine oil. Recently, I asked my service manager to let me speak with his best mechanic, I asked him: out of all the major piston failures and other oil related failures and what I mean by “oil related” is relying on oil to function, was the oil dirty in these engines? Answer: YES! If people aren’t going to use high quality oils, early OCI’s should be recommended.

Mechanic also said, you’d be surprised as to just how many have come in with even past required OCI’s but he felt that GM would have serious consequences with consumers if sooner OCI’s were recommended rather than computer and manual based etc etc.

I change every 3-4K miles regardless if there’s 50% left on my computer. Reason being, proactive maintenance has helped me never have “ANY” premature engine failures related to oil or not.

There’s a few folks in here that change every 3K miles, that’s AWESOME!

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Bob2C · February 8, 2020

I’m always proactive maintenance on all my cars from when I was 16. My wife says I’m crazy and that I just do stuff to keep busy. In all my years I never had any major issues with my cars that required a shop to fix. Maintenance is key. Another reason I have always bought new. I have friends who lease and beat the ever loving crap out of it. I ask why and they say I don’t care I am turning it in. Plus I like to work on the cars. It gives me a sense of satisfaction.

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TXGREEK · February 8, 2020

I’m always proactive maintenance on all my cars from when I was 16. My wife says I’m crazy and that I just do stuff to keep busy. In all my years I never had any major issues with my cars that required a shop to fix. Maintenance is key. Another reason I have always bought new. I have friends who lease and beat the ever loving crap out of it. I ask why and they say I don’t care I am turning it in. Plus I like to work on the cars. It gives me a sense of satisfaction.

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That’s awesome, Wish there were more like you!

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Bob2C · February 8, 2020

That’s awesome, Wish there were more like you!

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Thanks. And in the long run I have saved soo much money. Spend a little up front, save a lot on the back end is the way I see it.

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TXGREEK · February 8, 2020

Thanks. And in the long run I have saved soo much money. Spend a little up front, save a lot on the back end is the way I see it.

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Kudos, very well said!

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usaf27 · February 9, 2020

Check out the exhaust manifold.
If there’s broken bolts (due to rust) then the manifold won’t tightly fit against the head which causes it too tick. However, after it’s warmed up, the tick goes away because the heads and manifold expand which causes it to seal up better.

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