Jump to content

Exterior/Interior Rust


Recommended Posts

Posted

I know this topic has been brought up previous times before, but I'm looking for a little insight and/or recommendations.

I've got a 2010 Silverado 1500 All Star Edition with only 49,000 miles. The frame coating is peeling severely throughout the whole frame, and showing bright orange rust. Even interior components are corroding near the brake pedal and such. (see photos)

I know there's a TSB for 2011-2013 regarding this, but it seems like just re-coating over the rust wouldn't be very beneficial. It seems like the only solution is to strip, prep, and POR15 the whole frame. Even though I live in Vermont, it seems crazy how fast it's deteriorating. I've seen plenty of older trucks in much better shape.

Anyway, enough venting. Any ideas?

 

photo1_zps80f0d085.jpg

 

photo2_zpsc3908b8a.jpg

 

photo3_zpse403fde5.jpg

 

 

photo4_zpse0cb2b5a.jpg

Posted

It doesn't look pretty and is a defect in GM's engineering in my opinion. You are well on your way to what my 2001 looks like. This is another long standing problem GM is doing it's best to avoid.

Go for the throat. GM is totally at fault. I don't think the TSB said anything about coating over the rust. There was also a pre-prep to deal with the corroded frame before the new coating. The TSB was posted on this site in the last few weeks.

You are in deep doo-doo living in Vermont. As far as GM is concerned you shouldn't even drive your truck in the salt air from the ocean, lol.

Posted

I see a buy back program similar to Toyota in the future if they don't get a handle on this

Posted

2nd picture is down by the brake pedal in the cab. 3rd is the corner of the rear cross-member where the hitch is located. 4th is the main frame rail where the bed meets the cab.

 

I agree on the buy back.. this is just plain ridiculous. Only 49,000 miles! There's got to be a way GM can redesign the frame coating for longevity. I know salted roads is just a killer on vehicles, but you can see 2014's in the show room with rust starting at the corners of the frame and differential already.

 

I'm going to contact my local dealership to see what some options are.

 

Maybe the best idea is to start leasing. No sense in owning a vehicle that's going to deteriorate in less than a decade.

Posted

I started a thread about the frame rust a few weeks back. I have to schedule my appointment, although mine is a much smaller area.

Posted

Holy toledo, I think GM forgot to put the frame protection on your truck in the first place. My '06 hasn't seen anyplace where they use salt but I drove it for two years in Alaska and my frame and interior parts have only got surface rust on them, at most. A good portion of the original high temp wax coating is still in place but it's getting more and more depleted over the years. I also have a '76 Chevy pickup that looks only moderately worse than that and that was driven all over roads of Pennsylvania. I would most certainly be getting GM to do something for you. There are a few of the GM Assistance folks on this site that will gladly help you.

Posted

Your 76 had twice the steel thickness in the frame. A corrosion allowance. My 68 Chev frame, which is now a trailer, corroded has more metal then my 2001. GM put a defective anti-rust coating on the frame and took away the corrosion allowance to reduce weight and improve gas mileage. This would be ok if the corrosion protection worked.

I had my box off last summer to replace all the brake lines. Take a look at what an 01 frame looks like. I replaced a shackle this winter that rusted through and snapped. Waiting for better weather to replace the other one. BTW I have a beautiful Class IV Reese hitch attached to that frame. I can see my camper and ass end detaching in my rear view mirror some day.

My body panels are in good shape except for the rockers which blew out one month after the warranty on them ran out. But the while thing is sitting on a rusted and totally suspect frame. Next thing to go is my shock mounts and there won't be enough metal left on the frame to weld new ones on. Totally sad.post-123752-0-19334600-1397265561_thumb.jpg

post-123752-0-19334600-1397265561_thumb.jpg

post-123752-0-19334600-1397265561_thumb.jpg

post-123752-0-19334600-1397265561_thumb.jpg

Posted

All my new vehicles I undercoat and use 3M stone guard on the rockers right off the lot. Mud flaps I would recommend too, my rocker damage was mostly due to stone chips, can't fault GM for that. I always washed the underside of this truck better than the top especially in the spring.

The frame is another story though. GM voids the corrosion warranty if you use undercoating. Problem is their coating doesn't stay on. If it is a waxed based compound you can see their point, I would assume some of the undercoatings would dissolve the wax. Knowing what I know now I would have been after the dealer to get my coating fixed where it had peeled before it came off warranty. That's what I recommend to everyone with the problem. There is a TSB so it is on GM's radar. The only way they will do better is by making it economically hurt them. You are only getting what you thought you paid for. I get a little pissed when I read about people with trucks just a couple of years old still having these troubles. GM has had this issue at least a decade and has done nothing so far.

I do know my next truck won't be GM unless they solve this problem.

My stock aluminum drive shaft and special stainless steel exhaust just gleam like new. Plastic gas tank perfect except for the steel straps. Won't do me much good when the rear wheels literally fall off this truck. How can that not be a safety issue?

Posted

You'd think with those of us that deal with winters and those that deal with salt water that someone would find a coating for under neath that is impenetrable

 

sent from my truck in a field

 

 

Posted

Bottom line is that they do not want them to last, so that you will go buy their latest and greatest. Salt is nasty, and will eventually kill every vehicle that is subjected to it. That is why it is not used on airport runways. You wouldn't want to see landing gear rust off a plane. The wax coating is not one of their smarter ideas.

Posted

I just undercoat annually can't lose sleep over GM and their dumb ideas... Too bad we don't have rot out issues like Toyota maybe they'd do something then

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Man, that frame picture looks bad. Almost like some sort of a metal charge (as in electricity) issue or something that is actually accelerating the rust. That is insane!

 

Having said all of this, I have heard that the liquid solution that they spray on roads now actually is way worse than even the granular salt.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm suborn like that Ed. There's a plaque in my doctor office that says, "Don't quit, take a break." Works for allot of things.    Reality is, the wife loves her SUV and even given it's issues, she'd buy another if she found one with low enough miles. Then again she has me to maintain it.    Most of what ails this thing is GM shooting themselves in the foot and by extension the buyer. Besides a ridiculous breather system the cat warm up strategy, IMHO, is the dumbest thing I've ever seen an OEM do to a vehicle they warranty. On cold start it r-e-t-a-r-d-s the ignition to like -17* ATDC and dump fuel like kicking over a pail to force combustion in the CAT's for rapid warm up. This literally hoses the oil off cylinder walls and creates enough varnish precursors to stick rings in even well maintained engines. THEN if that wasn't bad enough they recommend using a wanting fluid specification at equally stupid interval.    Common to all GDI motors I'm aware of is this silly practice of driving the HPFP off the cam giving a leaking pump direct and unchecked access to the crankcase. And sir, eventually the ALL leak. Your job is to "catch it if you can". Yes, these are the same people that removed dipsticks from engines and transmissions in belief Joe Average wasn't capable of checking, reading and maintain his own vehicles fluids. Sadly  and in large they were correct. Most people these days can't tell a sparkplug from a fire plug.  Great ideas one and all.    Every move and every error calculated to defend themselves from the law and their own customers.       
    • Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...