Jump to content

Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

BlueWrapper
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Gibson Enthusiast

The Gibson

Posted
Posted

 

Was just noticing that. I wanted to go with 18's or 20's and all black. Any rubbing?

No rubbing, but I have 285/65 with 2.5 level.

  • Replies 5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Full Lock
Full Lock

I'm in... Man I need some new pics if rain would stop messing up my truck ha   305/65 18x9.-12  

DLS-001
DLS-001

Mounted!     18-inch Method Mesh wheels, 275/70/18 BFG All Terrain tires, and a 2.5-inch RC level (front only). Zero rubbing, zero road noise, nice traction on and off road, and no wobbly street

daowens
daowens

Fuel Maverick 20x9 +20 Nitto Trail Grappler 295/55R20 Rough Country 2.5" Leveling Kit No rubbing or trimming        

Posted Images

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

 

No worries, your's looks great too and almost the same setup lol.

Thank's man.

No problem! :thumbs:

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted (edited)

Duplicate


 

Edited by 5RWill
Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Guys quick question on the rims. 5rwill has 0 offset. If he was at +18 would that move the tire/rim out or in....and if out by how much more than 0 or the flush look?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

Gibson and Stroker, well done gentleman. More tire ✅ less wheel ✅ That beats those 22's and rubber bands ANYDAY. ???

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted (edited)

Guys quick question on the rims. 5rwill has 0 offset. If he was at +18 would that move the tire/rim out or in....and if out by how much more than 0 or the flush look?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

While i can't tell you the dimensions inward or outward (though i think it's mm IIRC) + is inward towards the wheel well. Negative offset is outward. Take a look at these -12s

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/161228-post-your-2014-wheeltire-set-up/?p=1673722

 

 

Gibson and Stroker, well done gentleman. More tire ✅ less wheel ✅ That beats those 22's and rubber bands ANYDAY.

 

That's why i went with 17s as well as the added benefit of tire prices. I'd have gone 16s if they would've fit, honest to God. I'm all for cheaper tires.

 

For those of you that moved to some aggressive heavy 33s like Toyos...what the hell did you do to remedy the loss in MPG? Lol i just cruised here in the delta (it's flat) at 45mph, was holding 17mpg. Compared to 20-24 with the stock tires. I'm thinking exhaust and tune to bring some power back. At the very least to remedy the throttle response issue. I thought the truck was somewhat sluggish with stock tires. Put these huge things on and it's very very noticeable.

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 1
BlueTopaz14 Enthusiast

BlueTopaz14

Posted
Posted

Guys quick question on the rims. 5rwill has 0 offset. If he was at +18 would that move the tire/rim out or in....and if out by how much more than 0 or the flush look?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

The higher the number the more in it gets. For example a +27 will be more inwards compared to a +18. The negatives take it outwards. A zero could give you a flush look or like my case I have fuel Mavericks with a +20 offset but my tires are 33x12.5x20 which then makes it flush because the tires are so big.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For those of you that moved to some aggressive heavy 33s like Toyos...what the hell did you do to remedy the loss in MPG? Lol i just cruised here in the delta (it's flat) at 45mph, was holding 17mpg. Compared to 20-24 with the stock tires. I'm thinking exhaust and tune to bring some power back. At the very least to remedy the throttle response issue. I thought the truck was somewhat sluggish with stock tires. Put these huge things on and it's very very noticeable.

 

Well your mpg math will be off a little due to running a taller tire unless you recalibrate your speedo and

hell if you adjust that you might as well go ahead and get a tune. That won't really help though because you won't be able to keep your foot out of it. I just took off a set of LT285/65/18's and swapped for a set of LT 275/70's and that helped a little, plus the 285's were Nitto Trail Grapplers and they rode like shit. Felt like riding on tank tracks felt really heavy. Now I'm running Cooper AT3's and they feel like p rated tires. Plus they're a little narrower so there is less rolling resistance. And my lazy butt can still drive thru the auto car wash. These tires aren't as sexy as the Nittos but at least it doesn't sound like my dash is going to fall apart. My phone is playing dumb tonight and I can't post pics for some reason but you can go to my profile and check out a few post back. There should be some pics where I compared the two tires.

As for throttle response, try driving in M5 or M7 if you have 8 speed unless you're on the interstate and use tow haul mode and the truck will feel better but that won't really help your mpg. You should see my mpg. I'm lucky to get 9 mpg right now because I just switched back to E85 plus I have a 2.5 level and removed the lower air dam/valence.

Get yourself a Blackbear tune. You will kick yourself for not doing it on day one. Worth every penny. And if you buy an Autocal you can have a few different tunes. One for performance, one for fuel savings or whatever you like.

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

I'm planning a blackbear tune + Borla XR1 at the moment. Probably sooner than later at this point. I'll find a decent muffler shop to get what i want done, put the exhaust on and then get the tune.

scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

I just took off a set of LT285/65/18's and swapped for a set of LT 275/70's and that helped a little, plus the 285's were Nitto Trail Grapplers and they rode like shit. Felt like riding on tank tracks felt really heavy. Now I'm running Cooper AT3's and they feel like p rated tires. Plus they're a little narrower so there is less rolling resistance. And my lazy butt can still drive thru the auto car wash. These tires aren't as sexy as the Nittos but at least it doesn't sound like my dash is going to fall apart. My phone is playing dumb tonight and I can't post pics for some reason but you can go to my profile and check out a few post back. There should be some pics where I compared the two tires.

 

 

 

Here are the pics of both tires for comparison

 

Tire Fitment

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

While i can't tell you the dimensions inward or outward (though i think it's mm IIRC) + is inward towards the wheel well. Negative offset is outward. Take a look at these -12s

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/161228-post-your-2014-wheeltire-set-up/?p=1673722

 

 

 

That's why i went with 17s as well as the added benefit of tire prices. I'd have gone 16s if they would've fit, honest to God. I'm all for cheaper tires.

 

For those of you that moved to some aggressive heavy 33s like Toyos...what the hell did you do to remedy the loss in MPG? Lol i just cruised here in the delta (it's flat) at 45mph, was holding 17mpg. Compared to 20-24 with the stock tires. I'm thinking exhaust and tune to bring some power back. At the very least to remedy the throttle response issue. I thought the truck was somewhat sluggish with stock tires. Put these huge things on and it's very very noticeable.

Mine was pretty sluggish when i first got my larger/heavier tires. Then I installed the intake and exhaust and that helped bring back some power. You may disconnect/reconnect the battery to start the relearn process and get an exhaust put on. That helped me regain that loss and then some. Mine didn't lose much, just had to learn how the truck was responding with the heavier/larger tires. Mine just keeps getting better too, at least it feels that way. Then ABSOLUTELY TUNE IT. That's my next step. hopefully soon.

HT3LA Enthusiast

HT3LA

Posted
Posted

2.25" Procomp level kit with a Zone 1.5" body lift added. Tires are 34.5" Nitto Terra Grapplers on OEM 22" wheels.

 

 

post-168372-0-25037100-1487181509_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-25037100-1487181509_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-25037100-1487181509_thumb.jpg

post-168372-0-25037100-1487181509_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Boltman21 Enthusiast

Boltman21

Posted
Posted

Posted a few months ago. I'll post again since I am so happy with this thing.

Fuel Maverick 20x10 -20 offset

305/55R20 BFG KO2

3" maxtrac level on front / stock on back

*Slight rubbing when reverse at full lock.

A0E062F6-6111-42F5-A799-E55A82278614_zps

F8B0977B-B8CF-4693-A9F6-240F44804765_zps

60C9F968-7BE1-4B52-BC3A-448921CE3E0C_zps

  • Like 7

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • asilverblazer
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • PunchT37
      Oil Consumption

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...