Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Nice idea. Should have came from the factory like that.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

Now if we can just get someone to make it so you can hit both the lock and unlock on the remote to activate the cargo lights. I will do this mod ASAP. Thank you.

I already tried that found the door unlock signal wire and taped the light signal wire. Used a diode so the signal did not flow both ways otherwise when you hit the cargo light switch the doors would unlock, no luck. I think you can do it with a small relay. I may try this when I have some time down the road.

Posted

Can we get some pics!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sorry no pics but the diagram in the attachment should show you how to hook it up and where you put the switch and how you get the wires to the bcm really is your choice. I mounted the switch in the plastic plug because I was able to pop it out and mount the switch and wire it on my work bench. Like I said in my post I prefabbed the entire wire harness in a wire loom and tied it off to an existing harness running up the frame rail on the drivers side. once inside the cab popped out the bcm plug tapped the 2 wires. Done

Posted

Where are you getting your wiring info for the truck from? I'd like to try some ideas, but not going to happen fast if I have to tone everything out.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ok, I need this modification immediately. Hate going into the cab to turn on lights. Don't know why there's no switch in the back. Where is the BCM located at? I'm setting this up this weekend.

Posted

Just started looking through the wiring and I don't have anything fully figured out, but I do have some ideas. First, if we tie the horn to the cargo light with a diode it can control the light without the light controlling the horn. Then when you set it up to signal with the horn on a double lock button press it could turn on the cargo light. Another press or maybe double press it would turn it off. You could also use the horn (much easier to reach than that center switch). Since the light will not come on when driving you can still use your horn for idiots without looking like one yourself.

 

Random thing came to mind also. I have 1998 car that rolls up the windows and closes the sunroof with the alarm lock button, so of course 16 years later my new truck doesn't. How about finding a way to give the courtesy lights control of another power to the windows after the door has been opened. Then if you tie the door lock with the window up signal with a relay only powered with the puddle lights we could roll up windows after exit remotely. Just thought of this because we will not likely add an alarm to these trucks.

Posted

Ok I did the rear brake light modification to get this to work. Hit the fob and the lights come on. Simple and it cost me 5 bucks for a little wire and a couple of diodes.

 

6646b415b72bd43d49cef9d7a3b0606c.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok I did the rear brake light modification to get this to work. Hit the fob and the lights come on. Simple and it cost me 5 bucks for a little wire and a couple of diodes.

 

6646b415b72bd43d49cef9d7a3b0606c.jpg

so your cargo lights come on also?

Posted

so your cargo lights come on also?

No.

 

Just the led lights in the bed.

 

Put the diode in the circuit prior to the cargo lights.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have a canopy, so I end up using the puddle light signal! My lights will be off like normal when key is in run position

  • 1 year later...
Posted

How do you get to the back of the switch or remove the switch. Havn't really looked yet but that seems to be the hardest part. Really want to do this in my truck.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I tried this mod today but couldn't get it to work. I just tapped into the listed holes on the bcm with short wires to see if it would work before running all the wires. Does it take a special switch? The one I am using has three posts, one power, one load, and a ground. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks in advance!

Posted

Ok I did the rear brake light modification to get this to work. Hit the fob and the lights come on. Simple and it cost me 5 bucks for a little wire and a couple of diodes.

 

6646b415b72bd43d49cef9d7a3b0606c.jpg

Where it the how to for this mod? I'd be more interested in this than running a switch.

 

Thanks.

Posted

great idea and write up. thank you

Its little stuff like this , that makes the Ford trucks a little more user friendly. ( as they have this stock)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...