Jump to content

Cargo Lights on with Reverse Lights

El Conquistador
 Share

Recommended Posts

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

This is awesome with Towing Mirrors that have Cargo lamps too!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 357
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

El Conquistador
El Conquistador

Okay so I was inspired by 2 threads here, one being the fog lights on with high beams, which I did and love. The other is a thread about putting a switch in the bed by the tailgate to turn on the car

Crooks
Crooks

Did you jam it in far enough? She will take it

morrislee
morrislee

Hello,   Good idea, but I took your step little different. I have the puddle light and I tapped into that.     This way, when vehicle is in "run" position, puddle lights and the cargo lights w

Posted Images

Davidj101 Enthusiast

Davidj101

Posted
Posted

Just did this mod yesterday, and it is awesome.

 

I wondered if having the upper cargo lamps on would reflect too much light when reversing, but they don't at all. And those combined with the mirror lights, increase camera visibility immensely.

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Just did this mod yesterday, and it is awesome.

 

I wondered if having the upper cargo lamps on would reflect too much light when reversing, but they don't at all. And those combined with the mirror lights, increase camera visibility immensely.

Also great if you have bed lights too!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Davidj101 Enthusiast

Davidj101

Posted
Posted

I do have bed lights and that just adds to it.

 

I used a 1N5408 diode, which is a 3 amp diode, but it has slightly smaller diameter legs compared to the 1N4004 (1.3mm to 2.3mm) which makes it easier to insert beside the crimped connector. It stays in place well.

 

I ordered 20 of them and I'm going to keep an extra, so I have 18 that I'd be willing to send anyone that needs them. Just PM me your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you. Free of charge!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted (edited)

I did the mod for the cargo lights to come on with the reverse lights. Love it. Cargo light switch illuminates when the truck is in reverse.

 

Of those that have done the mod the other direction (reverse lights on with cargo light switch), what all have you noticed about turning on the cargo lights? Does the backup camera come online? Engine running or not? Or any other quirks that you've noticed since the mod?

Edited by Ravenkeeper
  • 1 month later...
Lamby66 Enthusiast

Lamby66

Posted
Posted

Has anyone doing this mod, or a version of it, find the location where the towing mirror cargo leds are tied into the rest of the cargo light circuit?

 

The upfitters guide says J302 under the left instrument cluster... That is not really too helpful as there is a mile of bundled wire under there....

 

I REALLY want to switch the use of these leds with a SPDT so they are Normal/Off/Reverse. I have a more complex but more useful control of my cargo lights operated by my backup lights and a latching timer circuit but that is only for my bed cargo lamps, as I cant find where I can turn off those annoying mirror LEDS separate from the high mount cargo light (which I would also like on with my circuit)

 

Anyone able to help?

Ravenkeeper Senior Enthusiast

Ravenkeeper

Posted
Posted

Has anyone doing this mod, or a version of it, find the location where the towing mirror cargo leds are tied into the rest of the cargo light circuit?

 

The upfitters guide says J302 under the left instrument cluster... That is not really too helpful as there is a mile of bundled wire under there....

 

I REALLY want to switch the use of these leds with a SPDT so they are Normal/Off/Reverse. I have a more complex but more useful control of my cargo lights operated by my backup lights and a latching timer circuit but that is only for my bed cargo lamps, as I cant find where I can turn off those annoying mirror LEDS separate from the high mount cargo light (which I would also like on with my circuit)

 

Anyone able to help?

 

 

They are considered "Puddle Lights," GRY8 on the BCM. Run the diode from BRN26 to GRY8, stripe end in GRY8. You may need to jumper PNK26 to GRY8, as well. I think that PGamboa did this with his tow mirrors, he can confirm these, when he checks in.

Lamby66 Enthusiast

Lamby66

Posted
Posted

Ravenkeeper, thanks for the info, but tow mirrow lights are not puddle lights but blinding backup lights. I want to keep these off most times. I need to isolate them from the factory cargo lamp circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Ravenkeeper, thanks for the info, but tow mirrow lights are not puddle lights but blinding backup lights. I want to keep these off most times. I need to isolate them from the factory cargo lamp circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Puddle Lamps and Cargo Lamps are two different circuits. In the BCM, the Brown Plug (X6) - Pin 26 is the Cargo Lamp circuit that BCM switches on/off - BUT, if you look at the diagram, it is a ground circuit that is being switched. That's treason why the diode faces towards the Pin 26 of the Pink Plug.

 

812f37b74d31307c1bb4c4f98eb2ece5.png

 

5ade56f66a7356ea7bd5867b72506d51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lamby66 Enthusiast

Lamby66

Posted
Posted

Pgamboa, I understand the circuit. I wired my cargo circuit to back feed from the trailer backup light circuit and a timer based button in the bed. I installed a diode to prevent the cargo circuit I designed from feeding the center high and mirrors.

 

In an ideal design, I would like to include the center high light in my cargo light circuit but keep the mirror leds from coming on. A passenger compartment mounted double pole single throw switch would work prefect IF I can find where J302 is located.

 

I was hoping there was a gm tech on here that would have access to the harness routing drawing to tell me where J302 is located. Per the upfitter guide, this is where the center high cargo light is tied to the towing cargo light circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Puddle Lamps and Cargo Lamps are two different circuits. In the BCM, the Brown Plug (X6) - Pin 26 is the Cargo Lamp circuit that BCM switches on/off - BUT, if you look at the diagram, it is a ground circuit that is being switched. That's treason why the diode faces towards the Pin 26 of the Pink Plug.

 

812f37b74d31307c1bb4c4f98eb2ece5.png

 

5ade56f66a7356ea7bd5867b72506d51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. I had others ask why the diode was facing the way it was and thought is was a battery + switched circuit. So took that opportunity to explain.

 

Good luck finding J302. I have not been able to intentionally find any jumper harnesses. Lol. Always by accident.

 

Upfitter says "J302 is in the passenger compartment, under the left side of the instrument panel"... lol. Whatever that means. Most harnesses have a harness routing diagram but this one does not.

 

Good luck, hope you can find what you're looking for.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Lamby66 Enthusiast

Lamby66

Posted
Posted

Yea, I think maybe my fox and hound toner might be able to help with this. There might be quite a bit that tones though considering this circuit goes EVERYWHERE ;-)

 

Thanks again for your help guys

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Hswerdloff New Member

Hswerdloff

Posted
Posted (edited)

Alright so I’ve been really wanting to do the cargo light - reverse light mod but i can’t find the right wires in the BCM. I can’t tell if the original post is for a NNNBS, but I have a NNBS. 2011 Silverado 1500 Z71 if that makes a difference. I’ve searched all over google and can’t find a diagram. Here’s a picture of what my BCM wires look like. The site won’t let me load more than one pic. Any ideas? 

8C7BA7D4-9AD3-49CE-9E9F-F082AB7A15F2.jpeg

Edited by Hswerdloff
Neallynein Enthusiast

Neallynein

Posted
Posted

I  had an issue with getting this to work. I bought the 1N4004 diodes (chinese got a 25 pack for like $1.25). I put them into the pins that people above mentioned but it did not do anything. i have them in as far down as possible on both sides. Is there something that i probably missed? Or maybe just one bad diode? i have not tried any others yet

JONES424 New Member

JONES424

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, Hswerdloff said:

Alright so I’ve been really wanting to do the cargo light - reverse light mod but i can’t find the right wires in the BCM. I can’t tell if the original post is for a NNNBS, but I have a NNBS. 2011 Silverado 1500 Z71 if that makes a difference. I’ve searched all over google and can’t find a diagram. Here’s a picture of what my BCM wires look like. The site won’t let me load more than one pic. Any ideas? 

8C7BA7D4-9AD3-49CE-9E9F-F082AB7A15F2.jpeg

I do not have an answer for you but what happened to your wires? 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 537 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...