Jump to content

2015 Silverado Vibrations?


TX1616

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ordered a 2015 yesterday after GM offered me a full buy back. Given that the full buy back was only for the replacement of another GM vehicle, I decided to go with a 2015 Sierra 6.2L w/8-Speed that did not cost me anything out of pocket. The dealer told me that I could drive the '15 for an extended period of time before I signed any paperwork. If I was not happy with the '15, they told me I was not bound to purchase the vehicle. If the '15 vibrates, I will take my '14 and trade it in on something else. I'd rather try to get a new free truck before taking a couple thousand dollar hit on purchasing another brand.

That's a pretty sweet deal

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

August '13 build...smooth and running good...had recalls done, but no real issues found...HVAC control knob lamps were "off by design in early builds", but fixed by dealer...had radio reception issues and dealer replaced module and software...now reception is good. Real nice truck. I have a real good dealer that does a good job and treats me right. Makes all the difference. But, I haven't had any of the other issues you read about on here...I've never had such a comfortable, quiet truck before (and I've had a few)!

Posted

I've been all over my truck and I can't find a build date...haha

Found mine on the driver's door near the sticker that shows the tire pressure...you can also send your VIN to the GM rep on the site and ask for a build sheet. It has the build date and info on it. My salesman gave me one too.

 

By the way, I LIKE YOUR TRIUCK....

Posted

LOTS of 14s out there that DONT vibrate, we get it , really, we do.

 

Those of you that have smooth riding trucks dont have to post it in the vibration threads, really, you dont. We got it.

 

So, as the OP asked, anybody drive or hear of a 2015 that vibrates or dont?

Posted

I've been all over my truck and I can't find a build date...haha

Look at the frame under your driver side door. The sticker should be there beneath the truck.

Posted

LOTS of 14s out there that DONT vibrate, we get it , really, we do.

 

Those of you that have smooth riding trucks dont have to post it in the vibration threads, really, you dont. We got it.

 

So, as the OP asked, anybody drive or hear of a 2015 that vibrates or dont?

so does that mean the vibration guys will stay out of every thread about a non vibrating Issue?

 

we get it, your truck vibrates. we get it

Posted
Posted

2015 4x4 LTZ with 20" Goodyears (not my favorite choice of tires). No vibration. I've had vibration in other Chevy's, many years before (with Goodyears...). Always been bad tires, always. Even had replacements vibrate. My suggestion, ask a local amateur racing group or car enthusiast group where to buy tires and try a new set....

Posted

I will say this, I've seen in on here and a couple of other forums now of people with vibration issues getting fixed by replacing the drive shaft.

 

Apparently there is some sound deadening material in the shafts and it is braking apart which causes the shaft to go out of balance..

 

So there may now be a fix that works...

Posted

that's interesting bigbadsierra...1st I've heard of sound deadening inside the shafts...

Posted

that's interesting bigbadsierra...1st I've heard of sound deadening inside the shafts...

Someone mentioned this in the vibration forum a while ago. I don't remember if his issues were solved though. Its def something to remember. I had 3 drive shafts on my first 14 and had the exact vibration with all 3 so I'm not a believer that the driveshafts are bad. Maybe a few here and there...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,287 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...