AUX switch install

[94yj]

On 2/25/2019 at 9:35 PM, TinkeringFox said:

thank you for all the help i got it all hooked up today i clipped the wires off the back of the switch and ran them to the relays and all works good now on to the next project getting mmy truck set up for working

 

[TinkeringFox]

1 hour ago, 94yj said:

thank you for all the help i got it all hooked up today i clipped the wires off the back of the switch and ran them to the relays and all works good now on to the next project getting mmy truck set up for working

 

That’s great! Do you have  indicator light back-feeding? 

[94yj]

11 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

That’s great! Do you have  indicator light back-feeding? 

no feedback on lights but i still have the diodes to install hopefully they will not cause a problem with the switch lights and cause feedback issues

[TinkeringFox]

On 4/27/2018 at 9:43 AM, TinkeringFox said:

These are the only AUX switchbanks I’ve found...

One more switch courtesy of @CSjumper2003....

[94yj]

the switch  to use with 4 pin relays external relays is gm part number 84347196 it is an off and on switch  also do not forget to use the gm diodes 12112422 to protect the bcm and other sensitive components this also depends on how your truck is setup and what options it has as mine is the base model wt version

Edited March 5, 2019 by 94yj

[maxum3300]

Tried to read thru each page but got more and more confused. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax diesel. I have traction control, cargo lights and the exhaust brake so I would need switch cluster 23145163. I want to use one of the auxiliary switches to control a light bar. The light bar has a relay harness that has 2 wires that go to the battery and a longer 2 wire harness that goes into the cab that connects to the supplied toggle switch. Where do I connect these 2 wires that would go to the toggle switch in order to use the auxiliary switch?

[Crazyjoker77]

2 hours ago, maxum3300 said:

Tried to read thru each page but got more and more confused. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax diesel. I have traction control, cargo lights and the exhaust brake so I would need switch cluster 23145163. I want to use one of the auxiliary switches to control a light bar. The light bar has a relay harness that has 2 wires that go to the battery and a longer 2 wire harness that goes into the cab that connects to the supplied toggle switch. Where do I connect these 2 wires that would go to the toggle switch in order to use the auxiliary switch?

 

Unfortunately that harness isn't going to be much use to you if you want to use the aux switches.  GM unconventionally made the aux switches ground controlling. 

 

You could probably hack up that harness and get something to work but its probably easier to just start from scratch.

[TinkeringFox]

Yes, you’re on the right page with switch#23145163. Next are the relays. You’ll need to reconfigure your harness to accommodate the negative signal coming from your new Aux switch. The toggle switch that came with your harness likely has 3 wires, power, ground and output/trigger back to the relay. The other two wires in the harness attach directly to the battery. One is power (+) and the other is ground(-). The power or positive will have a fuse attached after a few inches (likely 30A) and then continue to terminal 30 of your relay. Ground will just run directly to terminal 86 of your relay. if you peel open the protective covering on your harness at the relay you’ll see the routing of wires. The negative that comes from the battery to terminal 86 will branch off from there. One wire will lead out to your light bar (providing a ground to the light) and the other will head up to your switch (providing ground for the indicator light inside the switch). The positive coming in from the fuse and going to terminal 30 is the supply power for your light bar. It travels from the battery through the fuse and into terminal 30 of the relay. When the relay is “triggered” or “energized” power going into terminal 30 gets connected internally (inside the relay) to terminal 87 and travels out of 87 to your light bar providing positive power to your light. So as far as the switch goes, power that comes into terminal 30 also branches off there. You’ll see a smaller wire coming back off of terminal 30 heading up to your switch. This is power for your switch which serves two functions. One, it provides power for the indicator light inside the switch that lights up when the switch is “on” or “closed” and two it provides positive (+) power for the relay’s positive trigger (terminal 85). So with power coming into the switch from terminal 30, if you toggle the switch “on” you connect power (+) to the third switch wire which travels back to terminal 85 of the relay.

 

when terminal 85 has power (+) and 86 has ground (-) the relay will energize sending power to your light bar. What you need to do is cut a few wires.....

First would be the ground wire coming into terminal 86. You want terminal 86 to be a negative trigger and not just have ground all the time. The signal coming from your Aux switch will be negative so it will go directly to terminal 86. The larger ground wire left over (now disconnected from terminal 86) should be direct ground from the battery to the light bar.

 

Next would be the positive “trigger” to terminal 85. Connect the fused power coming into terminal 30 over to terminal 85. This can be done by connecting both positive wires that go into and out of the switch to each other, eliminating the switch altogether. 

 

Now there is full time fused positive power going into terminal 30 (for the light) and also into terminal 85 (for the positive side trigger).

terminal 86 now has only one wire going to it (a negative  trigger wire from your new Aux switch).

[Manilla Gorilla]

On 10/4/2018 at 10:54 PM, Pacman929 said:

I'm going to try this. Let me know if it violates any rules I did not see.

Has anyone in the Dallas, Texas area done this swap to a 17 with traction control and cargo light. And willing to help a brother out? Sometimes it's better to see it in person and talk to someone who has done it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

How did this work out for you?

[Pacman929]

15 minutes ago, Manilla Gorilla said:

How did this work out for you?

It did not. No response yet, but I am about ready to attempt it my self.

[Manilla Gorilla]

I will be soon as well. I’m gathering info and parts

[15BlueSilverado]

1 hour ago, Manilla Gorilla said:

I will be soon as well. I’m gathering info and parts

Same here, just need to get the switch panel ordered. I've already got my fuse/relay box, getting that wired up now, it's just slow going cause I'm working on it after work a little at a time. And I need to order more parts but I need to space them out so my wife doesn't kill me for spending too much. Thinking of doing the factory overhead/headlight/foglight switch mod too, that would give me 5 switches for accessories. I like to keep the factory look inside

[Darksky]

15 Blue Silverado- can you add some details and an update as to longevity of the 1” LEDs you added for landing and aux back up lights? Are the reverse lights in the steps practical  for beam pattern and throw? On my truck it seems like they would angle outwards to 5/7  more than directly to the rear. Can you post pics of the mount locations for the step lights? Did you ever add wheel well lights?

Maybe you could add these updates in your build thread.  Thanks, Dark.   Ooorraaah.

 

 

sorry for the thread hijack. ?

[Mwestrum]

On 4/26/2018 at 3:17 PM, TinkeringFox said:

I just tested an Upfitter switch with a CNG button (23146445) and it seems to be identical to the one with TC,Cargo,Exhaust Brake (23145163?). The output and indicator input use the Exhaust Brake plug (X2). If you were to use this CNG switch, or the Exhaust Brake switch inyour application you would need to remove terminal/wire 4 from the X1 connector (main plug) and swap into pin 4 on the X2 connector (exhaust brake plug). The terminals are a different size so a cut and splice would be necessary or just replacing the terminal. This would allow the use or triggering of HDC through the Output pin from CNG or Exhaust Brake. You would just pop on an HDC cap in place of CNG, then move the CNG cap to say Aux 4 to use as your slip tank Trigger.

 

 

[Mwestrum]

Any tips from the experts on how to remove the individual buttons from the housing. 

I have two switches that I want to mix and match.