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Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

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bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

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16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted

I installed 4600s on the rear of my '16 CCSB 4x4 and I am actually impressed at the increased ride quality and handling; there's a turn on my way home from work that includes broken pavement, and my '04 Ford F150 FX4 would dance unnervingly sideways over those spots with Bilsteins.  The Chevy would move, but not actually shift sideways over that spot with factory shocks.  Now, I don't even notice them.  The rear seems to have raised a little bit too, under a half inch.   Color me impressed.

  • 1 month later...
Cupton Enthusiast

Cupton

Posted
Posted (edited)

Debating the Bilstein 4600, 5100 or Eibach Pro Truck Sport for my completely stock 2018 Sierra SLT All Terrain. I won’t be lifting or leveling so the 4600’s seem like the logical choice but I do live in an area with way too much road salt in the winters. So a zinc coated shock makes sense, but I worry about the ride quality with the 5100’s or the Eibachs. Decisions, decisions… 

Edited by Cupton
Cupton Enthusiast

Cupton

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/10/2022 at 6:46 PM, Cupton said:

Debating the Bilstein 4600, 5100 or Eibach Pro Truck Sport for my completely stock 2018 Sierra SLT All Terrain. I won’t be lifting or leveling so the 4600’s seem like the logical choice but I do live in an area with way too much road salt in the winters. So a zinc coated shock makes sense, but I worry about the ride quality with the 5100’s or the Eibachs. Decisions, decisions… 

Purchased the Bilstein 4600's. They were in stock and a much better price at the moment than the Bilstein 5100 or Eibachs. I had an "aha" moment where I realized a zinc coated shock doesn't mean the rinsing of the underside can stop in the winter. All it means is the shock will retain its bling longer and since I don't ever recall looking under my truck to admire its shocks, I went with the 4600's. I actually really dig the yellow anyway.  😉 

 

Also realized that the rear shocks they send didnt have the straps on them to keep them compressed. Hope this doesn't make them too much of a pain to install. I wasnt planning on using the jack but I may need to in order to get them compressed enough.

Edited by Cupton
Cupton Enthusiast

Cupton

Posted
Posted

Sorry, last post here on this topic for a while since the last two (not including this one) were from me. Installed the read 4600's this morning after my 1st cup of coffee and was done in in about 30 minutes. The lack of the straps on the shock wasn't an issue at all. Just a little bit of muscle to compress and everything lined up and was bolted down. Now Im off to find a place to install the fronts. 

jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, Cupton said:

Sorry, last post here on this topic for a while since the last two (not including this one) were from me. Installed the read 4600's this morning after my 1st cup of coffee and was done in in about 30 minutes. The lack of the straps on the shock wasn't an issue at all. Just a little bit of muscle to compress and everything lined up and was bolted down. Now Im off to find a place to install the fronts. 

 

4600 have been standards for a long time.  I have the 5100, but that just because i wanted just a little more off-road comfort... Something like that.  I did the front and rear, but i think i want to put a smaller spacer in the rear, my little bass boat lowers my truck a little too much. I raised the front 5100 to the first notch and I wish i would not have.  I do not mind a rake at all.  

 

Funny how we can compress these with our man strength but rely on them for a 1500 truck :).  I was very happy with how fast these were to install.  I did the same, just got under the truck and was patting myself on the back afterwards.  You should not need an alignment.  

  • Like 1
Cupton Enthusiast

Cupton

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, jaimeastin said:

 

4600 have been standards for a long time.  I have the 5100, but that just because i wanted just a little more off-road comfort... Something like that.  I did the front and rear, but i think i want to put a smaller spacer in the rear, my little bass boat lowers my truck a little too much. I raised the front 5100 to the first notch and I wish i would not have.  I do not mind a rake at all.  

 

Funny how we can compress these with our man strength but rely on them for a 1500 truck :).  I was very happy with how fast these were to install.  I did the same, just got under the truck and was patting myself on the back afterwards.  You should not need an alignment.  

I was thinking the same thing! How the heck am I able to compress this and how is this any better than the bounce house Ranchos I'm taking off?!?! 😉

 

I tow nothing and haul very little, so thats why I went with the 4600's. I had dreams and ambitions of doing a little lift in the front, but the more and more I drive the truck, the more I realize I am happy with where it is at with the stock height. Maybe the next round of shocks I will change my mind. I would do the front myself, but I really dont have a way to compress the front springs in order to remove and install the new shock, so I will just take it to my local place that usually does my my tires and alignments and get it done.

 

You mentioned I shouldn't need an alignment. Was I wrong in my thinking that an alignment would need to be done or is that only when changing the height of the front?

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

I don't remember if I ever updated on my situation. About 2.5 years ago I installed 6112s on top setting and 5160s (5100s with remote reservoirs) with taller rear blocks on my '15 Sierra 4x4 Max tow. I am/was perfectly happy with the improvement in ride quality. My 5160s started leaking just after 2 years of ownership but less than 2 years of being installed. They might have had 25k miles on them. Bilstein and the place I bought them from told me tough luck which was disappointing considering how close to the warranty time period that they failed. I replaced them with 5100s which have a lifetime warranty and I don't think I can tell a difference in ride quality. 

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  • 1 month later...
cjmiller Enthusiast

cjmiller

Posted
Posted

Have a 2" leveling kit on the front and what appears to be the stock 1 1/4" block on the back.  Would like to raise the back for towing.  Tried air bags but they made the truck way too bouncy when hauling, even at the minimal amount of air required to level the truck.  If I go with a 2" block can I run the stock rear shocks or do they need to be swapped out.  Or should I swap them out anyways?  Looking at the Bilstein 5100s but there appear to be two different part #s, 24-285896 and 33-238319, one looks like it is only for a 2" lift and the other for 0 - 2", any benefit to one or the other?

  • 3 weeks later...
encreed00 New Member

encreed00

Posted
Posted
On 8/16/2016 at 12:05 AM, TeamGoose said:

 

I had them sent to my friends house so that my wife wouldn't see what I got. I told her I was getting a $50 leveling kit lol. Going to install before she sees what I got. Wish y'all had Koozies to keep my beverages cold!! Or did I not see them on the site?

It is not too late! Still, you could find it any of the online store such as Amazon from where you can get those custom koozies to keep beverages cold. 

  • 2 weeks later...
XXXII New Member

XXXII

Posted
Posted
  • Bilstein 5100's on all 4 corners. 2nd from the top setting in the front.
    • Had a shop swap the springs onto the new struts for $40, did the rest myself.
    • Steering alignment done after install by a shop $85.
    • Tip: You can install these without undoing the ball joint or even loosening the sway bar. Use a long breaker bar above the lower control arm and wedge it under the frame. Pull down on the bar to lower your lower control arm for more clearance.
  • BFGoodrich 275/60/R20 Trail-Terrains T/A tires

20220502_200846.jpg

  • Thanks 1
jaysen Enthusiast

jaysen

Posted
Posted

For those who went with NEW springs... which did you go with and what other parts did you purchase or reuse? I am placing an order now for some 5100's but would like to replace the springs since I have 125K on current ones.  What all will I need in addition to the 5100 purchase. Thanks

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)

^^ If you're getting new springs up front, why not go with the 6112s? I have those up front and 5100s in the back along with a slightly taller block.

Edited by Red_5
jaysen Enthusiast

jaysen

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Red_5 said:

^^ If you're getting new springs up front, why not go with the 6112s? I have those up front and 5100s in the back along with a slightly taller block.


Couple reasons; cost being one, warranty being another, and not sure there is a significant/noticeable difference between the two for my particular use?

 

I found some 5100’s for about $135/ea… depending on the springs I go with and extra hardware needed I’m guessing I’m out the door at about $500. The extra $250-300 I’d be paying for 6112s doesn’t seem justified when multiple people here who’ve had both admit seeing no difference.

 

 Convince me otherwise?

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