Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

 

Go ride in a new Full Size SUV from GM with adaptive suspension and air ride, you will probably think otherwise. They rode nice back in the day but were a little floaty over larger bumps which off set the nicer ride on the smaller stuff (don't forget cars back then creaked and rattled over bumps). Our 2021 Yukon Denali is amazing at how well it rides. We have had all the GM flavors over the years including a 1975 Pontiac Grandville (talk about a massive boat with a 455) to Bonnevilles and Le Sabres/Park Avenues until switching to vans/suvs and trucks the last few decades and this new SUV rides incredible compared to anything else. 

 

I would not be surprised if on the next gen the trucks adapted a IRS from the SUV's for the high end versions or the half tons as one of the engineers pointed out it was tough enough for truck stuff. With all these suburban dads buying the box checker trucks not to tow and haul but just drive to work and complain about the ride, well something like an air ride IRS with adaptive suspension will fix those complaints (until they start complaining about not having massaging seats or some other luxury car feature). 

 

Tyler

I seriously doubt the ride is as nice as that old tahoe….or buick roadmaster, or a host of other 90’s boats.

 

I mean it’s pretty damn easy to design a suspension to be good at one single thing and suck at everything else. Also, tahoe had air suspension too….courtesy of the 5” smaller wheels than your denali.

 

I suppose I can’t really be sure without driving a new denali, but I’d seriously doubt it.

 

I’m not knocking your denali, it’s better than an old tahoe in like 999/1000 categories.

 

me saying the tahoe rides better than your denali is kinda like saying a 25 year old civic with cement poured in the water jackets and a 350shot of nitrous can beat a lambo in a rolling drag race. While technically true it’s not really relevant.

 

 

Edited by truckguy82
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just noticed oil leaking from one of my 5160s. Less than 2 years old and only about 25k miles on them. Unfortunately, I think they only have a 90 day warranty.

Posted

I just got off the phone with Bilstein and found out the 5160s have a 2 year warranty. Unfortunately, I'm just over that from the time of purchase but they haven't been installed for 2 years. I'm hoping to hear from the dealer to see if they can help before pulling the trigger on a pair of 5100s that have a lifetime warranty.

Posted

What a disappointment. I ended up buying a pair of 5100s to replace these, hopefully they last longer.

IMG_0449.HEIC.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Looking at replacing my rear shocks and going back and forth between the 4600s and 5100s.

 

The 5100s seem more popular but several post on here describing a trampoline feeling with them. I do mostly highway driving with very little towing. Any advice or suggestions?

 

Not looking to ever lift the front or rear. I live in the south so not much issue with salt. Currently have the Z71 pink ranchos

 

 

Edited by Hogtiming
Posted (edited)

As I posted on your other post regarding this

:
"I'd go with the Bilstein 5100s.
Before I had them installed, on my lift, the stock shocks would bounce the truck over small speed bumps.
With them, it's been much, much better as I can over speed bumps with very little jounce and I watch trucks behind me jouncing as I used to.
That said, as @Grumpy Bear mentioned, there are many choices at many different price points. "

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 6/6/2021 at 9:07 AM, summitcounty99 said:

Hello,

 

Anyone think the Bilstein 6112 series shock would be to much for just a simple replacement over the original Rancho shocks? I do not plan on lifting the truck; just asking and researching what other people have done and are happy with.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

 

I had factory ranchos and was always happy with the ride.  Hit 100k and needed new tires so figured I'd get new shocks too since I'd heard that was about their lifetime and I could see the rears were rusted badly.  I've had 6112s (set on stock height) and 5100 rears for over a year now and am still super happy with them.  Them and the Blackbear tune are the best money I've ever spent on mods.  Roads around here are awful, and the 6112s eat up potholes and bumps like it's nothing.  I didn't measure before/after but I know for sure the front shocks lifted the front end of the truck after install, and it settled down a lot but fairly certain it's still higher than stock but a negligible difference.  I'd recommend them to anyone.  Can't speak for their longevity obviously. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I put 5100 shocks on my 2016 at 800 miles. It now has 4k miles. I have a metal clang sound on drivers side and deep thunk sound on drivers side when I turn. Is this normal for 5100 billsteins?

Screenshot_20210908-192812_Messages.jpg

Posted
59 minutes ago, stevejones said:

Not normal.  Best to get the front end in the air, then manipulate the control arms with a floor jack & see what's moving that shouldn't be.

It doesn't happen every turn. Im sure i won't be able to replicate it in the air. I cant make it do it when I want when driving.  The thunk sounds like my 06 Silverado that had the uca bushing pop out and in

Posted

Take your truck in to a repair shop if you do not think you can find the source. No need in risking it falling apart on you while driving. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/10/2021 at 4:22 AM, JRRIVERA34 said:

I put 5100 shocks on my 2016 at 800 miles. It now has 4k miles. I have a metal clang sound on drivers side and deep thunk sound on drivers side when I turn. Is this normal for 5100 billsteins?

Screenshot_20210908-192812_Messages.jpg

If you or whoever did your install did not use the factory Top Nut on the shock this could be where you're at noises coming from. The ones supplied by Bilstein do not have the built-in washer flare that the factory nuts do. Search this thread and you will see it mentioned. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 10/11/2021 at 8:19 AM, Grjfer said:

If you or whoever did your install did not use the factory Top Nut on the shock this could be where you're at noises coming from. The ones supplied by Bilstein do not have the built-in washer flare that the factory nuts do. Search this thread and you will see it mentioned. 

Can it be identified with out removing anything? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...