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Bilstein shocks thread


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7 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Actually there are many many mamy good post that answer your question. Indepth at that. Even go into why no diff would be felt with change of height setting.

 

Must grow thick skin. Just giving you a hard time...

No worries on my part. You are right. Yes. Yes I could have ignored that question. Chose to ask my own question, maybe spark a few people to do even just some cursory reading before throwing in the towel and asking for the umpteenth time. I think that question is probably answered on every other page of this thread. This admittedly very lengthy thread. It was a tough read for sure. And still had questions but one thing that is true...just about every time someone suggests spacers with 5100's someone - sometimes a 4x4 or offroad "expert" or even some engineer type, chimes in to say "not what they were designed for."

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2 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

No worries on my part. You are right. Yes. Yes I could have ignored that question. Chose to ask my own question, maybe spark a few people to do even just some cursory reading before throwing in the towel and asking for the umpteenth time. I think that question is probably answered on every other page of this thread. This admittedly very lengthy thread. It was a tough read for sure. And still had questions but one thing that is true...just about every time someone suggests spacers with 5100's someone - sometimes a 4x4 or offroad "expert" or even some engineer type, chimes in to say "not what they were designed for."

Do yourself a big favor and look into the eibach pro setup/ w spring. Then think contol arms. 2wd?

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11 hours ago, ThundahBeagle said:

Is anybody taking time to read through at least some of this thread before asking?...

 

Front Bilstein 5100's are not meant to be used with a spacer. That's why they have the different settings. My guess, is that the 5100's at the lowest/ stock settings with a spacer,,would be a harsher ride than the 5100's on the top setting

I have taken the time to read through about 50 pages but when I find the same question asked, everyone goes on battle royale to see who's smarter than the next guy or change the topic completely. Someone will suggest one application and the next will contradict that. I'm more confused now then when I started on the forum. And your answer was just a guess. Just asking a simple question is all. 

Edited by Willard Burnight
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I have taken the time to read through about 50 pages but when I find the same question asked, everyone goes on battle royale to see who's smarter than the next guy or change the topic completely. Someone will suggest one application and the next will contradict that. I'm more confused now then when I started on the forum. And your answer was just a guess. Just asking a simple question is all. 
There is no difference. Untill you add spacers which effectively reduce the usable "stroke". May as well pickup the eibach pro setup and be done with it.

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4 minutes ago, Willard Burnight said:

I have taken the time to read through about 50 pages but when I find the same question asked, everyone goes on battle royale to see who's smarter than the next guy or change the topic completely. Someone will suggest one application and the next will contradict that. I'm more confused now then when I started on the forum. Just asking a simple question is all. 

You are right, Willard. I suppose I encountered the same thing as I read through. You can come away with no real clear answer after getting bogged down in the weeds of it, so, apologies for coming off a little harshly.

 

But it is true that the front 5100's are not meant for use with spacers. Just place the snap ring on any setting other than the lowest, and the front end rises.

 

The rears are meant to be used anywhere between stock height and an extra inch of height. That height is obtained by swapping out the stock block with a block that is an inch taller. 

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59 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

You are right, Willard. I suppose I encountered the same thing as I read through. You can come away with no real clear answer after getting bogged down in the weeds of it, so, apologies for coming off a little harshly.

 

But it is true that the front 5100's are not meant for use with spacers. Just place the snap ring on any setting other than the lowest, and the front end rises.

 

The rears are meant to be used anywhere between stock height and an extra inch of height. That height is obtained by swapping out the stock block with a block that is an inch taller. 

Thanks I appreciate that!!?

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On 12/15/2020 at 7:43 PM, Willard Burnight said:

Bilstein 5100. What gives a better ride. Having it at the top setting or having it at the lowest stock setting with a spacer on top of strut for a 2in level?

Bilstein will tell you that the 5100 adjustable front struts are not meant to be used with a spacer, it will void their warranty and reduce the life of the shock.  I have run bottom strut spacers and currently have the 5100 adjustable struts on the top setting with roughly 1.85" of front lift.  

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I purchased a couple of $5,100 for the front from a seller on craigslist. the units are new and have not been used, but they do not come with their flange nuts or the bump stop caps...  Can I just use any flange nuts from the hardware store? What about the bump stop cap... Going to try to contact Bilstein tomorrow... 

 

I do have the o-ring for height adjustment... Are there any other parts I'm missing?  I paid $120 for both 

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I purchased a couple of $5,100 for the front from a seller on craigslist. the units are new and have not been used, but they do not come with their flange nuts or the bump stop caps...  Can I just use any flange nuts from the hardware store? What about the bump stop cap... Going to try to contact Bilstein tomorrow... 
 
I do have the o-ring for height adjustment... Are there any other parts I'm missing?  I paid $120 for both 
Use the factory bolts and nuts top & bottom. Good luck with the bump stop. Maybe the factory will work as well. Give it a shot. BUY A NEW TOP MOUNT ( WHAT THE STRUT MOUNTS TO). DO NOT ATTEMPT swapping springs at home. Just take them off and have a local shop swap em. The part you call an o ring should be a metal snap ring. Good luck on your project. Let us know how you let em.

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When you say bump stop caps, do you mean these?  https://www.resuspension.com/shaft-nut-bump-stop-bilstein.html

 

As for the flange nuts, I think Bikstein recommends you use theirs, but I also think that is to make sure you use a fresh set any time you change the shock. They should be able to send you some, or go to any auto parts store and get some that fit your vehicle, or go to the dealer. I think we sacrilegiously re-used my old ones on one side.

 

The O-ring you refer to is called the snap-ring. An Oo-ring is usually some kind of rubber and is used to form a seal to prevent leaking.

 

Normally, for our full size GM trucks, these go for a little over $100 each.

 

Good luck

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Use the factory bolts and nuts top & bottom. Good luck with the bump stop. Maybe the factory will work as well. Give it a shot. BUY A NEW TOP MOUNT ( WHAT THE STRUT MOUNTS TO). DO NOT ATTEMPT swapping springs at home. Just take them off and have a local shop swap em. The part you call an o ring should be a metal snap ring. Good luck on your project. Let us know how you let em.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

Good God I concur!!! Go ahead and pull the entire coilover out, but definitely get it to the shop to swap the springs over to the Bilsteins. When I tried, my puny compressor started bending, so I reversed course and took the assembly and Bilstein to a shop. And THEY had a rough time with thier wall mounted compressor, even.

 

Dont try to be the hero with these springs.

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Agreed. Its utter nonsense to attempt at home. Guys claim to do it without issue. I call B.S. its down right dangerous. I went the next step up to the McPherson strut clamp and the damn spring flew out & you know that damn clamp was bent like hell.

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Thanks for the responses.  I was not going to do the spring compression at home.  I love DIY and I am sometimes a glutton for punishment, but not doing that.  I just want to take the shocks off and take them to the shop, swap out and then put back on.  I am not sure if I will go from stock height.  I just want a better shock.  I tow a boat and leveling is not an issue with me.  Going up an inch in the front and back would be cool just to do it, but will need a 2 inch block in the rear to match the 5100 I'm putting back there.

 

@Snowcamo ok, I will look into getting a couple top mounts.  I take this as sound advice from experience.  My truck had 40k and is a 2018.  Might see if I can get a new isolator ring as well.  I have a lifetime alignment to complete the job.

 

Attached are the parts I am missing.  I have the snap ring on the shock itself,. But the bump stop and collar for the snap ring as well as the bolts are missing.  I saw an install video where someone reused the bump stop ring/washer because they wait the stock one was beefier than the one that came with the bilstein.  I found a collar kit on summit racing that might work for the collar.

 

Thanks again!

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Definitely don’t rely on the normal spring compressors that parts stores have. I built my own when I put Bilsteins on my ‘08. The screws on mine are 20mm (nearly 13/16”) and the hooks are high carbon steel. I also added safety pins to make sure the hooks couldn’t slip off the springs. The parts store compressors use 1/2”-5/8” screws and weaker cast or forged hooks. 

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