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yanzhixiang

Bilstein shocks thread

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4 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

@Granite7, is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete?

 

I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others?

 

 

Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

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[mention=205292]Granite7[/mention], is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete?
 
I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others?
 
 
Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

Yes, that is loaded down. I was very happy to see it almost level!

I used the ReadyLift 2.25” blocks. They’re not perfect, but I felt their block design was stronger than other blocks on the market. I did have a problem where the bolt head from the spring pack didn’t want to seat into the dimple in ReadyLift’s block. Between the neighbor and me, we had the tools to mill out the pocket to fit.

I worried about the taper also, but I haven’t felt any vibrations or had any noticeable axle wrap. I like acceleration, but I’m old enough to drive like an adult. Speed limit here is 75, so 80-85 is not unheard of. Ride quality didn’t diminish as far as I can tell.

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2 minutes ago, Granite7 said:


Yes, that is loaded down. I was very happy to see it almost level!

I used the ReadyLift 2.25” blocks. They’re not perfect, but I felt their block design was stronger than other blocks on the market. I did have a problem where the bolt head from the spring pack didn’t want to seat into the dimple in ReadyLift’s block. Between the neighbor and me, we had the tools to mill out the pocket to fit.

I worried about the taper also, but I haven’t felt any vibrations or had any noticeable axle wrap. I like acceleration, but I’m old enough to drive like an adult. Speed limit here is 75, so 80-85 is not unheard of. Ride quality didn’t diminish as far as I can tell.

That looks really good for holding 1200. I'm with you, I dont need to go terribly fast anymore, I just know it was steady as a rock no matter what speed I brought it up to, and I'd like to keep it that way, as stable and steady as possible. So I'm optimistic 

 

Thanks

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13 hours ago, Granite7 said:

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

going to bookmark this setup for when my shocks eventually need replacing. 

this is perfect IMO 

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On 7/20/2020 at 11:55 PM, Sierra Jon said:

FWIW I ran helwig 987 heeler springs on my last K2 and it raised the rear up an inch and stiffened up the ride a little. Another option...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

 

@Sierra Jon , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?

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[mention=138501]Sierra Jon[/mention] , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?
No. That wasn't my intent either. I just wanted to improve the ride height (keeping the truck level) when towing my travel trailer.

There's other limiting factors like GVW and brake circumference that play into the HD payload.

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Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front?

 

Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper?

 

I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip.

 

Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

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On 7/23/2020 at 4:00 PM, Battle Born Offroad said:

No, but what can we help you with?

Please see my question in the post immediately above this one, if you happen to know.

 

Thanks

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On 7/23/2020 at 4:03 PM, ThundahBeagle said:

Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front?

 

Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper?

 

I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip.

 

Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

Pretty sure you will be fine either way. When I got my truck it already had a 2.5" RC lift in the front and stock block still in the rear. I replace the junk Ranchos with 5100s all the way around and added a MotoFab CH-2R 2" rear lift block because I didn't like that the rear was a little lower than the front. I've had no issues with how it drives with either rear block and it's been up to 130 mph with the rear lift blocks in. 

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What upper control arms are you guys running? Suggestions, recommendations? I'm about to pull the trigger on some 6112's on the 4th setting and 5160's for the rear.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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13 hours ago, petie23 said:

What upper control arms are you guys running? Suggestions, recommendations? I'm about to pull the trigger on some 6112's on the 4th setting and 5160's for the rear.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I have those shocks, 6112s on the highest setting, and I’m on stock control arms on my ‘15 Sierra NHT. They’ve been on for almost a year now.

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Do the 5100s have a "0" setting? I'm still trying to wrap my head around if they are for trucks WITH a level or can level themselves, or do both in combination.

 

I have a BDS 2" level that I am happy with. Truck sits perfect and drives fine. I have no interest at all in any extra added height, but I'm looking for some good shocks to tow with. The 4600s sound fine to me but they are for stock height apparently. That's fine for the rear, but again, I'm 2" higher up front. Does this imply that the 4600s would be too short and top out a ton with a 2" up front? Will the 5100s work in front for me without adding any more lift?

 

Since I'm here, how do the shocks lift anyway? Valve the fluid up and put all the pressure on an internal spacer/solenoid that provides the lift? I suppose I could delete the BDS and just do 5100 but I'd imagine the shocks would last longer if they weren't artificially trying to support the weight of the front end up. Maybe I have it all wrong?

 

Not looking to do any off-road. Just bought a max GVWR 7,000# travel trailer and looking for ideas to help keep it planted where it should be.

 

Thanks for any tips/info.

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