12142 miles on my lY6 and the dealer is pulling it out.

[818silverado]

The dealer said they can't diagnosis the issue, it has the infamous cold start tick. it's really loud and lasts for 30 seconds or so. Do you think I will get a new or rebuild?

[818silverado]

I'll ask the service manager if a 6.2 is a option. I don't mind paying the difference or maybe I'll just trade it in.

 

 

 

 

All I can say is if my 2011 5.3 gives me any serious issues after the warranty is up, it will be a crate motor for me, a 6.2 drop in! With the cost of labour, your better off just throwing in a new engine instead of rebuilding half of an old one.

[Jsdirt]

In my experience, the dealer does as little as possible to get you through warranty period - that's their main goal. Repairs with engine longevity in mind, and doing things right the FIRST time only happen when you complain.

 

My buddy has a V6 camaro that spun a bearing at 18k miles or so. They dropped the pan, and just bearing-slapped it. I couldn't believe it! 2k miles later, he arrived back at the dealer on a flatbed. They finally did it right that time ...

[tbarn]

The Vortec 6000 LY6 is a Generation IV small block V8 truck engine. It shares the same bore and stroke as its LQ4 predecessor, and also features variable valve timing. Cast iron block, aluminum heads.

 

LY6 applications:

* 2007-present Chevrolet Silverado HD

* 2007-present GMC Sierra HD

* 2007-present Chevrolet Suburban 3/4 ton

* 2007-present GMC Yukon XL 3/4 ton

Ahhh. That makes more sense. I think most 6.0, 6.2 engines knock on cold start. I hear them all the time. Even new.

[Doug_Scott]

What he said , no waaaay warranty will do this even with a cash difference, it's just to hard to do..... Lol

 

If swapping engines was just a simple bolt in swap you MAY be able to bribe someone in parts for the swap, But, don't ever try to get repairs under warranty. These days it just can't be done, very few, if any, engines will install without some modification for it to run.

 

That being said, in the past I had the rear gears changed in my 1987 5.0 MustangLX from the no-cost option 3.08 to the optional 3.55 gears out of a Ranger truck. That was a simple change, no extra cost to dealer or myself. I did however have to change the speedo drive gear in the transmission to Ranger drive gear and got my speedo and odometer back to normal. In my case, warranty was up on the OEM rear end gears 30 days after they swapped the gears to repair a gear noise.

[Doug_Scott]

Had an intermittent knock at 16k or so, tore the engine down, GM Engineer didn't like the look of the #8 Piston.....he claimed they are free floating Pistons and the #8 seemed to hang up at times. Replaced the piston, and she's been quite for a few thousand miles now. I was hoping for a new short block, but was told they would not replace a 12k motor just to give me a sense of security

 

I think he meant full floating wrist(or gudgeon or piston) pins. This just means that there are circlips at each end of the pin that fit into a groove in the piston, and they keep the pin from hitting the cylinder wall as the pin floats. Not sure how he can take a piston and rod assembly out and say the piston seems to hang up. But, if he only changed the one piston and that fixed it, then I will tip my hat to him.

 

It has been a long time since I actually worked inside a block, and back then full floating pins were not very common. Pretty much every engine I worked on or happened to have some involvement in, had pins that were interference fit into connecting rod. Piston slap noise was usually either aftermarket pistons with too short a skirt for the stroke of the engine(not a stock engine, so not the issue here), or some damage to the skirt of the piston. It was generally called a collapsed skirt, and the noise was usually on every cold start, and if real bad, you would get a double rap noise on initial engine acceleration from stopped. Would only make noise for what sounds like 4 or 5 revolutions. Note that I am not saying it is only 4 or 5 revolutions, I am saying it sounds like that is all it is. In other words a very short time.

 

If your truck is still under warranty, pay close attention to it on every start. If you get another piston or pin fail(or better yet, the same one as before), GM will look more towards a short block. If the dealer seems to feel the stock engine runs $12k, have him look up a crate engine from GMAccessories. You can get a real nice engine for less than that. He will not go that route though, just pointing out something to use next time they try to shock you with the cost of something under warranty..

[Beer Belly]

Thanks for the input, Doug

[818silverado]

Oil pump and pickup screen was changed. When I start the truck the noise is gone, but when it warms up I can still hear a tapping sound like a lifter and the truck seems to be a slug now, I didn't get it to race it but when I punch it the truck seems to be sluggish. It's going back to the dealer.

[00Silverado4x4]

I doubt they will give you an "upgrade" on engine selection. GM will most likely only authorize the same type engine to be installed into your vehicle.

[newdude]

The dealer said they can't diagnosis the issue, it has the infamous cold start tick. it's really loud and lasts for 30 seconds or so. Do you think I will get a new or rebuild?

 

What year is your truck? 2009-2015? Has it been doing it since day 1?

 

You may have a vehicle with a concern of cold engine tick noise.

 

This concern will diminish within 50 seconds of a cold start.

The noise shuts off like you have flipped a switch.

 

This concern may be a vehicle design characteristic as the ECM calibration is designed to meet cold start emissions.

 

The noise that you hear is actually combustion taking place in the exhaust manifold. When the timer hits the 50 seconds it advances the timing and the noise is immediately gone.

 

Be sure to determine if the tick noise is possibly coming from the exhaust manifold, as this noise could easily be mistaken for an engine tick noise.

 

If your SI diagnosis does not isolate the cause of this concern, and all of the following statements apply, this concern should be considered a vehicle design characteristic of the ECM

 

calibration and no additional repairs should be performed:

1. The concern has been present since the vehicle was new.
2. The concern is greatly improved or eliminated if the engine is allowed to warm up for 1 minute.
3. The concern is present on a similarly equipped vehicle.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

 

 

This was an info to tech/service advisors released in Feb of 2014.