Jump to content

Thieves got me


Recommended Posts

Posted

I would be pissed off if this happen to me. Sorry about your loss.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

 

 

Sadly, wheel locks are a waste of time. Any good thief will have them off as fast as a regular lug. And so will the bad ones. On one of my previous trucks, I misplaced the wheel lock key, and I managed to get them locks off as quickly as the regular nuts

A friend who was a mechanic said the same thing, he said a pair of pliers and you can snap it right off.

Posted

Any thief can get a wheel lock remover kit on eBay for $25. I have similar stripped bolt removers that I have used on electric impacts to remove rusted or stripped bolts and nuts. Work just fine on locking wheel nuts as well.

 

It's horrible. I hate thrives. It only costs the hard working guy more money to have nice things. Had a truck stolen, had sleds stolen, had atv's stolen. Truck broken into a handful of times likely for spare change.

 

Canada is horrible for theft. They know they will got off with a slap on the wrist if even caught. Cops don't even follow up with b&e's on vehicles around here. They can't even be bothered to take a report. They just have a handy online form you fill out so you get a report # for insurance.

 

People say vigilante justice doesn't result in anything but bigger issues but sometimes some punks just need their legs broken.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I would be pissed off if this happen to me. Sorry about your loss.

I'd be out for blood.

 

Thieves are one of the lowest forms of life (only bested by wife beaters and pedophiles). They take from those who work because they're too lazy to do the same. Hopefully one day they'll steal from the wrong guy and get ventilated.

Posted

Sorry to hear man. The coming back the second time kills me. What pieces of shit, you know it's the same losers too.

Posted

I wonder if those wheel lock removal kits work on the gorilla mcgard style lug nuts. I have those on my wheels and I also have a motion detection camera and light over my drive way that send me pics when activated. The camera is a Foscam they work great.

Posted

Holy smokes, SORRY to hear that. Get a night vision motion sensor pointed camera on your truck, preferable a WiFi one that can text your phone when it captures an image.

 

What's next is up to you.

Posted

 

 

Sadly, wheel locks are a waste of time. Any good thief will have them off as fast as a regular lug. And so will the bad ones. On one of my previous trucks, I misplaced the wheel lock key, and I managed to get them locks off as quickly as the regular nuts

Yeah, discount tire showed me how worthless they are when I lost my key and asked if they could get them off.
Posted

Regret you experienced such an ordeal.

 

There is a ancient African proverb know as "Every day is for the Thief, one day is for the victim", which if its any comfort to you, simply means that one day the bastards will be stealing at the wrong time, wrong place and will get the justice they deserve.

 

Happened to me with a new Corvette back in '03 and in a gated apt. complex in Houston. It also it happened within 30 mins of my parking the car, and my neighbors knocking on my door to tell me that they saw my car sitting on wood blocks. The cops who responded told me then that they see it every day!

Posted

Any thief can get a wheel lock remover kit on eBay for $25. I have similar stripped bolt removers that I have used on electric impacts to remove rusted or stripped bolts and nuts. Work just fine on locking wheel nuts as well.

 

It's horrible. I hate thrives. It only costs the hard working guy more money to have nice things. Had a truck stolen, had sleds stolen, had atv's stolen. Truck broken into a handful of times likely for spare change.

 

Canada is horrible for theft. They know they will got off with a slap on the wrist if even caught. Cops don't even follow up with b&e's on vehicles around here. They can't even be bothered to take a report. They just have a handy online form you fill out so you get a report # for insurance.

 

People say vigilante justice doesn't result in anything but bigger issues but sometimes some punks just need their legs broken.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Haha, screw the wheel lock remover kit. I took some old sockets and bashed them onto the locks with a hammer, then break the nuts off with the breaker bar.

Posted

And please don't leave your firearms in your vehicle, even if you're just going in to pay for gas. Thieves work really fast.

Posted

And please don't leave your firearms in your vehicle, even if you're just going in to pay for gas. Thieves work really fast.

Hard to stop a thief when they have your firearm as well.
Posted

I f'n hate scumbags. Good thing you didn't see it happen cause then you'd be in jail too... :M16: or at least that's how i'd turn out.

 

The new wheels look awesome though. :cheers:

In Texas you can blast the sh*t out of them while they are in the act and you will get no-billed. Really.

 

Mass. is not like that.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...