Jump to content

PROJECT HELP

Gdsmith07

Recommended Posts

Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
Posted

Alright I've decided at this point if I'm going to work on my truck I'm gonna play with it a little. She's a 2003 Silverado z71 LT EXT cab 5.3 Vortec. I've got some questions on Thai project I'm preparing to dive into. The reared what is it exactly, how can I find out. And depending one which one what's the max power I can apply to it. And what would be a good replacement. The transmission would be the same question what's the safe limits. I rebuilt the transmission a couple years back and upgraded the rings and cylinders to hold more power and a harder locking shift. The engine I'm planning on getting a a set of aftermarket heads, manifolds, camshaft, high pressure injectors high pressure fuel pump aftermarket intake manifold larger throttle body. I'm trying not to go to over the top because I still use the truck daily just want a little more fun out of it. Right now there's a custom exhaust system under her but I'll probably end up replacing it. Planning on tearing through the 5.3 for a rebuild haven't decided on a bore, strike yet or if I will. If so what's the safest bore on the 5.3. All in all wrap it up with a tune job and probably aftermarket tuner, and a stall converter. Any add ins from project guys or gear heads would be great or what I need to beef up in order to hold that I haven't mention. Until I start to work on the body and such since she was used as a daily driver for years she will look a little rough, just want to get her back up to, and beyond, how she used to run. Right now she has 250k miles on her having some troubles with a cylinder missfire and instead of waiting for more issues to come in her older age I've decided to get ahead of them and bring her back. Thanks guys

xXZ-71Xx Enthusiast

xXZ-71Xx

Posted
Posted

Look in your glove box for these codes to get started

 

G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
GU4 : AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 : AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 : AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
GT4 : AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 : AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO

 

I'm sure it is a 10 bolt but to be positive count the bolts on the diff.

Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Any idea on what can be applied to that power wise in a safe range or what a good swap would be with minimal chopping and cutting.by what I've heard the G80 is actually a very dependable rear end as long as it's taken care of.

xXZ-71Xx Enthusiast

xXZ-71Xx

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure about how much power it can handle maybe someone else knows. I have liked the G80's I have had. I don't think a 14 bolt swap looks too bad and it should be able to handle more abuse, Move spring perches and switch to a modified 2500 drive shaft I think is all that would be needed.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure about how much power it can handle maybe someone else knows. I have liked the G80's I have had. I don't think a 14 bolt swap looks too bad and it should be able to handle more abuse, Move spring perches and switch to a modified 2500 drive shaft I think is all that would be needed.

14 bolt is more time and money than it is worth. You can build the 10 bolt to handle power. As for bore and stroke. The 5.3 can go to 383 CI safely. A 6.0 swap would probably be easier and quicker power. That is 364 CI. An LQ4 with a blower will out perform what you want with your 5.3.
Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright I've got the g80 by what this sticker code says. I also took a picture if there's more questions on certain codes. What all would it take to build the g80 up? the modified 2500 drive train has crossed my mind I know my transmission is rated stupid high on horsepower and torque for what it's being put against right now. The 6.0 swap isn't a bad idea, but would it be a fare swap to a built 5.3? I guess if I swapped to the 6.0 I could always build it up. I was trying to figure out what heads to go with exactly right now any ideas ?? I'm planning on getting a larger throttle body and running a dual cold air intake. Run it naturally aspirated for now beef it up if i want. I'm trying to keep the four wheel drive system completely useable any ideas on if i have to upgrade the transfer case ?? It was just completely torn down and rebuilt with upgraded heavy duty parts around 20k miles ago.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

Alright I've got the g80 by what this sticker code says. I also took a picture if there's more questions on certain codes. What all would it take to build the g80 up? the modified 2500 drive train has crossed my mind I know my transmission is rated stupid high on horsepower and torque for what it's being put against right now. The 6.0 swap isn't a bad idea, but would it be a fare swap to a built 5.3? I guess if I swapped to the 6.0 I could always build it up. I was trying to figure out what heads to go with exactly right now any ideas ?? I'm planning on getting a larger throttle body and running a dual cold air intake. Run it naturally aspirated for now beef it up if i want. I'm trying to keep the four wheel drive system completely useable any ideas on if i have to upgrade the transfer case ?? It was just completely torn down and rebuilt with upgraded heavy duty parts around 20k miles ago.

Larger throttle body will do nothing unless you are running boost or a donkey dick cam. The g80 can go in the trash can and run the Detroit Truetrac. The LQ4 with LS6 cam and 799/243 heads, and tune would be a decent combo good for over 350 HP and still run decent on 87 octane if needed. Cold air has little effect on power. The G80 is the weak point in the axle. The 4L60E will be a weak spot as well but you can get an aftermarket unit made to hold more power when the old one blows.

 

As for the engine suggestion i just gave. It is a decent budget build with room to grow.

Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright so go with the Detroit locker ?? And the transmission I rebuilt and built it for more power, torque to be applied to it. I guess if I feel in a while she starts to give a little I'll replace it. So would it be better to just go buy a 6.0 and run through it or build a 5.3. I mean I don't really want to buy a 6.0 and then build it after a while. I guess I could go a head and pick one and start to work on it. I mean what would be the power difference between a built 5.3 or bought 6.0.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

Buy and rebuild the 6.0 before dropping in. In the long run it will be better

Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright I'll start looking for a 6.0 to buy, any input on what I should go with parts wise that'll beef her up.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

What i listed should give you a decent bang for buck.

Gdsmith07 Enthusiast

Gdsmith07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright guy I'm gonna get to work on buying stuff up. I'll keep you guys updated, post some pictures and such.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...