Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2015 Chevy silverado LTZ 40k truck and I have the same problem. The squeeking churping sound is annoying. I have an appointment with the dealer Wednesday but it sounds like this may be a waste of time. My friends told me not to buy a Chevy I should have listened. Trading truck in for a Toyota. I swear I will discourage people to buy chevy!!

Posted

Well add me to the list. My 2015 5.3L with 13,000 miles just started doing this. I'll be trying the "clamp it open" fix to test what it does. After I get results I'll set up an appointment with my dealer.

Posted

GM replaced my exhaust system from the catalytic converter back today. It's nice and quiet now. I hope it lasts. It sure was nice driving home without the flapper noise.

Posted

GM replaced my exhaust system from the catalytic converter back today. It's nice and quiet now. I hope it lasts. It sure was nice driving home without the flapper noise.

It'll last about a month. (personal experience)

 

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Posted

Well.....if it fails....I'll just have to replace it with one of these:

5e9a5a646de29e2ba1f0a9d735f422d8.jpg

Posted

GM replaced my exhaust system from the catalytic converter back today. It's nice and quiet now. I hope it lasts. It sure was nice driving home without the flapper noise.

 

Brian,

 

Did Sutliff do that work? I am near Gettysburg but have not been happy with most of the dealers around here (not just for this problem or vehicle -- they have been terrible on my last 3 or 4 vehicles). It's about a 45 minute drive for me to Sutliff but it may be worth it.

Posted

Looking at how the flapper is designed I don't see where just replacing it would make it quieter. It's a valve and a spring. Not much to it. Unless the replacement is an improved design of some sort.

Posted

 

Brian,

 

Did Sutliff do that work? I am near Gettysburg but have not been happy with most of the dealers around here (not just for this problem or vehicle -- they have been terrible on my last 3 or 4 vehicles). It's about a 45 minute drive for me to Sutliff but it may be worth it.

Yep Sutliff. They gave me a brand new Malibu LT with the 1.5L Turbo to drive for the day, what a fun car to drive!

Posted

I have this squeak on a brand new 2016. Picked it up two weeks ago. Didn't start doing it till it hit about 800 miles.

Posted

Had my muffler replaced under warranty today.

 

All it cost me was a nice door ding that I picked up while it was with them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 2016 GMC Sierra and this squeak that it makes is seriously annoying. I bought this truck brand new about 4 months ago, this is rediculous. Dealer said they've never heard of this, not getting much help. If I wanted a squeaky Truck I would have kept my old one. I want it fixed ASAP or refund my money.

Posted

Well add me to the list. My 2015 5.3L with 13,000 miles just started doing this. I'll be trying the "clamp it open" fix to test what it does. After I get results I'll set up an appointment with my dealer.

 

Well I watched the readout on the DIC and confirmed that it happened every time the truck went from V4 to V8 mode. I climbed under the truck and bolted the Passive Exhaust Valve open like the previous post said and the sound stopped. Drove it all day today and didn't hear the chirp once!

 

It's going to the dealer this Friday for an oil change and inspection so I'll be showing them the PI for the problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...