Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

They replaced mine once but the rattle came back. So a new one is on order. Supposedly gm made changes recently to help fix the problem. Fingers crossed. If not I will just go back to clamping it open and deal with the slightly louder v4 noise.

Posted

My 16 has just under 6k miles and has developed the squeak. Anyone with this issue shouldn't be told to accept it as "normal".

Posted

I was able to get the actual tsb on safercar.gov but you had to look through a 100 or so pdfs as the didn't really let you search or sort very well.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had the squeak on and off the gas in my 2017 1500. Started at 5k miles. The dealership just replaced the exhaust with a new one but it has no valve at all. Needless to say the noise is gone.

Posted (edited)

I had the squeak on and off the gas in my 2017 1500. Started at 5k miles. The dealership just replaced the exhaust with a new one but it has no valve at all. Needless to say the noise is gone.

 

If it has no flapper valve you will get a bad "drone" sound when you cruise along in V4 mode (some have compared it to a helicopter hovering over your tailgate). Keep an eye on it and let us know how it goes.

Edited by sk
Posted

This is a picture of the one they installed under warranty. I put about 500 miles on it and did not notice any drone noise in V4 mode.

post-172372-0-87127400-1493669884_thumb.jpeg

post-172372-0-87127400-1493669884_thumb.jpeg

post-172372-0-87127400-1493669884_thumb.jpeg

post-172372-0-87127400-1493669884_thumb.jpeg

Posted

Absolutely a bulletin on this concern. I've replaced tons of these exhaust systems for this problem. You don't have to bring them anything, they should be smart enough to search Service Information and find it. Make them do the leg work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

This is a picture of the one they installed under warranty. I put about 500 miles on it and did not notice any drone noise in V4 mode.

 

That is behind the muffler where the square flapper used to be. Look in front of the muffler. If they installed the new style you will have a round flapper before the inlet to the muffler.

Edited by sk
Posted

See that. You learn something new every day. I just climbed under it and it's in the front.

post-172372-0-32267700-1493753262_thumb.jpg

post-172372-0-32267700-1493753262_thumb.jpg

post-172372-0-32267700-1493753262_thumb.jpg

post-172372-0-32267700-1493753262_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Took my 2014 Silverado 1500 into the dealership for this issue. Told them what I have read on this blog. The representative said that his son had the same issue with his 14. Got a call hours later from a different rep and they said they couldn't duplicate the issue. I asked if I could drive and show a mechanic what I am talking about and they said no. That in itself is rediculous! I then went to Home Depot and spent $1.18 on the hardware listed in links above. From the second I started the truck I knew the issue was fixed. Before when you started it would give that same squeak. Went for a drive around the neighborhood and created the same perimeters where I would hear the noise. And to no surprise the noise was gone. I recommend this as a fix.

 

However, my question is has anyone experienced any issue with doing this. Also would you consider this a permanent or temporary fix?

Edited by ZeKeef13
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,469 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
    • Take it back. That's about all you can do.  Mark 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...