Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Here's my 2015 double cab ltz with a RC 2.5" leveling kit with rear blocks. Makes a ton of difference in the looks department I think. My 275/60R20 duratracs with fuel maverick 20x9 +01 offset are on the way! 45075bf321f98995ea59a2e562b32cec.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by 15ltzandy
Posted

Love this information. Z71 with 2" RC Level. Was wondering if I needed to adjust headlights, and this thread answered it for me. Thanks!

 

93bfd2b287ef08330bfc58ceaa9390cd.jpg

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

I finally got my Ranchos where I want them. 3 in front and 5 in the rear. I had put the front at 0 and it was like OEM ranchos. I jumped up to 3 and it rides great.

Posted

 

Its true Z71 has a higher rear, I was going to do 2.5 in the front and 1 in the back, however due to the z71 I only had to do the front

Where did you come up with that information?

 

The 4x4 pickups with the Z71 suspension sit at the same height as any other GM 4x4 truck that I have ever seen. The suspension differences between Z71, Z85, Z83, NHT ect. are mainly the stiffness of the OEM shocks. Shock length are all the same, but the shocks don't adjust ride height anyway.

 

All of the pickups also come with the same size rear block on top of the rear axel. The leaf springs are also the same measurements from center pin to eye with the same arch no matter the suspension package.

 

If any of the trucks actually were going to sit higher in the rear, common sense says it would be the options like the NHT/max tow that are rated for extra weight. Even if there would be more leafs in the pack to make it stiffer and give a higher spring rate to handle a heavier load, the truck still isn't lifted with the identical spring measurements.

The arch and measurements from center pin to eye are the same on the OEM leaf packs.

 

I am going to have to get some measurements next time a 14-15 Silverado/Sierra comes into the shop. The new trucks may be a little different but I doubt it. It would be very noticeable if one were higher than the other. Only difference I have seen are between 1500 & 2500.

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 4 months later...
Posted

a8a8cf7f2ca794a39126c0643fa7f787.jpg

 

 

 

Top is leveled with RC 2.5"with toyo MTs, bottom is stock.

 

If you take care of your vehicle, you will be fine. Who cares if you need to replace ball joints in 100k miles, that's part if maintenance

 

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's probably what I'm about to do. Don't you have to swap rear blocks to get this leveled. I'll be working with a 2015 All Terrain and wanted about a 1/2"-3/4" rake?

Thanks

Posted

Ok I am really thinking about doing this and running 275/65/20 with the stock 2014 Denali rims. I know the tires are a 34 inch and a load range E which I was wanting to stay with a P metric tire just due to the weight and ride!

What are we getting with Gas mileage with the 275/65/20 E rated tires and a 2.5 lift kit or even the 3 inch Motofab kit ? I am going to stay with an AT tire and haven't decided which one yet either!

Either

Toyo Open Country AT2

Nitto Terra Grapler

BFG AT2

Yokohama ATS

Posted

Rancho Quick Lift if your budget allows......

What about Beilstein 5100. is that better them Rancho quick lift. or not.

Posted

I have a 3.5" level and I'm running a 35x12.5x20 destination m/t on a stock yukon rim

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

Who makes a 3.5" leveling kit? Are your angles alright?

  • 7 months later...
Posted

a8a8cf7f2ca794a39126c0643fa7f787.jpg

 

Top is leveled with RC 2.5"with toyo MTs, bottom is stock.

 

If you take care of your vehicle, you will be fine. Who cares if you need to replace ball joints in 100k miles, that's part if maintenance

 

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

You have probably answered this a thousand times so forgive me, but did you install the entire kit front a read? This is how I want my rig to look!!! Thanks!

Posted

rc 2.5 toyo 33x12.5x20 love it

photo%201_zpsasrdqufe.jpg

photo%202_zps0dayzmlp.jpg

photo%202_zps9snky2su.jpg

photo%201_zpsruww16hx.jpg

photo%201%203_zpsykfd5jmb.jpg

 

Looks awesome!! Did you install the entire kit front and rear?

Posted

 

Looks awesome!! Did you install the entire kit front and rear?

those pics are with just the front installed...i did install the 1" taller blocks on the rear a few days later...

it looked a little nose high in person...plus i tow a camper pretty often...

Posted

Before / Stock

e7698f52c2d91d3d40be0b34c18bde59.jpg

RC 2.5 Just the front with 275/60/20 ko2 6964ef42fe843c2e99d207b18bd60f2b.jpg

The hole kit front and rear

6d6c44a360dc1a367f26f07e65482a73.jpg

Posted

We have the same truck. I really like the looks of yours now. What tires do you have and are you happy with them? Do you have a photo showing your truck from the front with the air deflector removed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...