New Head Unit

Sixstroke · July 6, 2015

Anyone have any information on relocating the two computer modules behind the factory head unit?

I've got the basic, non-bose HU and buying the 8" is just not an option, as it will not meet my standards, nor would I pay that much.

That being said, this is really the main thing from holding me back. I've done a good amount of research, but I've yet to find any solid information.

Thanks!

HondaHawkGT · July 6, 2015

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500X008U/Alpine-X008U.html

Sixstroke · July 7, 2015

What was the point of that?

I'm not looking to spend over $1500 on a HU, hence why I am not using a stock 8"...

HondaHawkGT · July 7, 2015

Oh I thought yoy didn't want the 8" because it didn't meet your standards. The Alpine would have been a better replacement.

Sixstroke · July 8, 2015

Ah, gotcha! While that is certainly true, I've already got an 80PRS which is very sufficient...just can't figure out how I'm going to mount it.

chancyrudd · July 9, 2015

Just use an air body saw or Dremel to cut out the plastic outer surrounds that the modules slide into. After that you will have a large cavity behind there to tuck the onstar module into. The radio/tuner module can be removed entirely once the radio is replaced. I have change the radio in many of these. I am an installer at a stereo shop and I do alot of work for the local chevy dealer.

You can easily put it back to factory the modules don't have to slide back into place to be functional. Just make sure you secure everything in the dash with something to keep them from moving around and making unwanted rattles and noises

chancyrudd · July 9, 2015

Also metra makes a LAN harness for the truck with and without onstar to make the wiring simple. They also make a good looking dash kit and an antenna adapter that will be necessary for am/fm reception.

Sixstroke · July 9, 2015

Just use an air body saw or Dremel to cut out the plastic outer surrounds that the modules slide into. After that you will have a large cavity behind there to tuck the onstar module into. The radio/tuner module can be removed entirely once the radio is replaced. I have change the radio in many of these. I am an installer at a stereo shop and I do alot of work for the local chevy dealer.

You can easily put it back to factory the modules don't have to slide back into place to be functional. Just make sure you secure everything in the dash with something to keep them from moving around and making unwanted rattles and noises

Bro, you're awesome! For whatever reason, I was under the impression that the stock unit had to remain intact. Do you recall if the radio is the top or bottom module?

And this is the kit I got:

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-hms-tmobile-us&sboxchip=Shopping&biw=360&bih=264&tbm=shop&ei=vM2eVYj2KIzW-QGEga-IBQ&q=2014+silverado+single+din+kit&oq=2014+silverado+single+din+kit&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3...7860.8326.0.8748.2.2.0.0.0.0.236.416.0j1j1.2.0....0...1c.1j4.64.mobile-gws-serp..2.0.0.qSIXq7nNbU8#spd=3999614436871718752&spud=0

chancyrudd · July 10, 2015

If I remember right the onstar module will be the one with a white plug, black plug I think and the a vacant spot for a plug and some antenna plugs that are fakra connectors.

The tuner/radio module will also have a fakra antenna plug which your kit from eBay includes an adapter for. The big green plug and a grey plug which corresponds to the adapter harness which comes in the kit as well. You can completely remove that entire box as it will no longer be needed.

I just had a 2014 Sierra in the shop today. I put on a borla cat back system and replaced his scosche ddr-gm01 harness with the pac-audio harness. I had replaced his factory 8" nav with a dnn991 by kenwood last year and when the ddr-gm01 came out last month I installed it because it puts the climate controls and lots of other features back onto the aftermarket screen. The piece was nice but it was a little glitchy so I swapped him back to the Pac-audio onstar retention harness which had no issues.

I wish I would have taken some pics for you. I had all the guts hanging out and you could have seen exactly what needs to be modified and where I relocated the onstar module to.

Sixstroke · July 10, 2015

Hey Chancy, I very much appreciate you taking the time to share all this information. I was apprehensive to start digging into my $40k truck too aggressively, haha.

That's great though, I can't wait to get this install going.

My next step is to determine my speaker wire paths, as the rubber tubing that bridges the door wiring to the cabin feels pretty packed as it is. That and whether or not there is enough depth in the doors for my Image Dynamics 6.5cts, them are some thick magnets!

This will be a full-blown 3-way active setup. I had it installed in a 00 Cherokee with limited sound deadening and it was stellar.

chancyrudd · July 10, 2015

No problem at all. I have been a professional installer for 13 years and I rarely share my knowledge online. Just too much misinformation and argumentative people out there. I figured since not too many people are changing the radios in these trucks yet I would chime in.

There has been plenty of room in the doors for the speakers I have installed. I usually do Kenwood XR components in these trucks when the customer will spend the money. I just make a 6x9 to 7" plate and the XR components 7" mid driver drops right in.

I will be running 18ga into each front door in the next week or two so that I will have an extra channel of audio in there. I am installing a set of Kenwood XR coaxials in there in place of my 6x9 woofers. The XRS have great mid bass and I am going to use my factory BOSE amps mid bass signal that is already there for the mid portion and run the extra channel of audio for the large silk dome tweeter thats on the coaxial.

I am pretty lame. I still have the factory 8" mylink/nav with BOSE. After listening and adjusting extreme stereo systems all day for many years I lost my desire to be loud in my own vehicle.

chancyrudd · July 10, 2015

After I route the wires through I will let you know how bad it was. It's usually not that rough. Worst car I ever did was adding power locks to an old hOnda civic the boot was long and skinny and went into the cabin so high in the door jam that I had no access on the back side.

Took me like 40 minutes to have the actuators mounted and attached to linkage and 4 hours to get the wires into the cabin from the door. Ugghhhh!