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Replace rear window with slider

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theonlyway Enthusiast

theonlyway

Posted
Posted

was this to remove the old window and install a new one? if so that seems like a hell of a deal. on the other hand, it's only a $250-$300 option on the sticker so if that's what your talking about, not such a good deal.

Sorry, it was $750 and yes to remove and add.

  • 3 months later...
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scott19677
scott19677

Yeah, mine is a power sliding w/defrost. It actually does a good job at eliminating the turbulance when you want to drive with the windows down. The biggest problem is trying to remember to close it

2004lebanshee
2004lebanshee

Non slider looks much better. Ive had both and the slider was useless IMO. Like the clean smooth look of a non slider.

Jernik
Jernik

I wish there was an aftermarket kit that would drop the whole back window (like the Tundra has). That would be worth $1200 to me!   Not sure the little box in the middle is worth that kind of money

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Txjose Senior Enthusiast

Txjose

Posted
Posted

My truck has the switch for the electrical slider but i dint have the actual sliding glass.

 

My girls 2014 has it tho. I would never use is to i dont care but i just thought it was interesting that mine has the switch for it but not the glass.

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

15slvrDbl Enthusiast

15slvrDbl

Posted
Posted

I'm another non slider guy. I like the cleaner look and unobstructed view. My last truck had it and the only time I used it was when the kids would open it then complain about it and not be able too shut it.

davidio840 Enthusiast

davidio840

Posted
Posted

I love mine. I don't really use during the summer down here (Houston). Way to hot, but in the season we call "winter" I use it all the time. It creates a good air flow on the cooler days. Plus the rear defog is really nice since my truck is often covered in dew in the mornings.

Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted

I use mine occasionally when it's warm and the windows are down. I wish it was like the one the Toyota Tundras had where the whole back window goes down into the body. Those are cool.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

blwright Enthusiast

blwright

Posted
Posted

 

 

Anyone know info for something like this?

I got behind a first gen Nissan Titan leaving work today and this looked earily similar.

 

 

Fat fingered, and shot from the hip.

  • 1 year later...
mkwambold Enthusiast

mkwambold

Posted
Posted

I guess I'm the only one that didn't want a power slider.. one of the first mods I did after getting my truck.

hello my name is mike and i`m doing the window swap right now but i ran into a snag could i ask you to take a picture of the right side fuse box on your factory equipped rear power sliding window truck i need to see if i`m missing fuse`s i can be reached at [email protected] or 610-730-2789 thank you so much in advance Mike

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Is there a manual slider? Because if really like one for my rc

JRoyPDX Enthusiast

JRoyPDX

Posted
Posted

Is there a manual slider? Because if really like one for my rc

Yes. CR Laurence makes one and I've really been eyeing it.
  • 6 months later...
mkwambold Enthusiast

mkwambold

Posted
Posted

OK guys / girls so i tried to do a post the how to install rear power sliding  window the other day and  it  all went south all there is in  my post is the  GM upfitter  wiring diagrams  so ill give it another go i did the power sliding rear window upgrade on my 2016 2500 silverado LTZ duramax crew cab short bed 4x4  now this will seam hard to do but its not  I have found info on the internet  that states  only the higher end models have the rear wiring in place so first thing you need to do is check that only way i know how to do this is pull the rear seats and rubber mat  from the rear of the cab and look on the passengers side mid way up for the wire plug with nothing plugged into  it if its there your set for a fairly easy install now  my truck did not have the weld studs in place for the motor to mount to so this is what i did i installed the power slider with the motor taped to the glass then after it set up i dropped the motor and  lined it up on the mounting boss`s there are 3 raised boss`s on that side just move the motor around  you will see were it  lines up (the motor is attached to the regulator by two push pull cables so it will hang and line just about right up)  i drilled 3 1/4 " holes in the back of the cab (be careful so you don`t  poke the bed its close) then i used 3 14-20" SS bolts with metal rubber sealing washers on the outside and  used   3M  strip calk 08578 to make  3 calk washers to install on the rubber side of the sealing washer to make sure  i have no leaks i put the bolts and  washers in place with a sivitec 323423 flex claw tool and  mounted the motor and plugged it  in done  back there for now  moving to the overhead console open the glass`s holder and insert your hand in between the front  of the glass`s holder and the console and  pull down the hole section were the led`s and the switches will pop down look up inside the back portion of the console and you will see two torx pull them out  then go to the front of the console  grab the two sides and  pull down there are two spring  clips holding it in there so you need to pull a bit drop it  down and  go to the main harness plug and  detach it  no the plug left  up there is the (X316 headliner harness to console plug)   your going to add 3 wires to this plug ill get to that in a bit you do not  need to drop the headliner there is  plenty  rum to feed your new 3 wire  harness you are going to make in the front  of the headliner you do need to pull the drivers side pillar post cover do this by popping out the two small plastic screw covers on the grab handle  and then pull the two screws remove grab handle the pillar cover is held in by spring  clips im going to list  the wires you need to add now  and wear they  come from and go to this is easy make your harness with the overhead wire ends installed and  let the other ends blank for now 

 

first  wire is going to be the power wire  from the driver side fuse block (X51L) fuse block instrument  panel left to the  overhead console truck harness plug (X316)   pull the X51L block out its held in by retaining clips very easy to pull  look on the back side for the X3 plug pop it out  and  find pin# 11 install your wire with proper GM terminal end in there make sure you have the tang on the  terminal end facing the right way look at the others to see how its installed  run this wire up to the overhead X316 overhead console plug and find pin#23 add this to that  location 

 

next wire is going to be the closed signal wire  this wire comes from the X61A  junction block  this is the box under the dash behind the brake pedal next to the E brake  you have to pop the cover off it  find the X3 pin plug unplug it  and  install your wire end  into  pin # 26 run this wire up to X316  overhead  console truck harness pin #20 

 

next will be  the  open signal wire from the X61A junction block  this is the box under the dash behind the brake pedal next to the E brake in the same  X3 pin plug find pin #32 install your pin and run this wire up to  X316  and  install into pin# 19 

     

THINGS YOU NEED TO INSTALL      

1. rear power sliding  window with regulator and  motor 

2. the proper overhead console with rear slider switch in it  (order with all the options in your overhead console now and then add power slider to it) THERE ARE MANY  

3. passenger side fuse box  

4. two lower trim panels under power sliding  window (old ones will not fit)  or cut 

5. 20 - 25 foot of wire GM terminal wire ends that fit the plugs and fuse box  3 - 1/4--20" bolts sealing flat washers and  nuts  

 

I DID THIS INSTALL CHEAP  I GOT ALL MY  PARTS FROM A SALVAGE YARD EVERYTHING  FOR 400.00 IT DID TAKE ME A BIT TO UNDERSTAND  THE GM UPFITTER WIRE DIAGRAM BUT ALL THE HARD WORK IS DONE FOR YOU JUST FOLLOW THE UPFITTER PLUG AND PIN LOCATIONS I HAVE ATTACHED AND  MY INSTRUCTIONS 

IF YOU NEED MORE HELP OR ADVISE EMAIL [email protected] /CALL/TEXT  610-730-2789  leave a VM  JUST SO YOU ALL KNOW IM NO ELECTRICAL GUY I SUCK AT IT BUT I MADE MY WAY THROUGH THIS WITH LITTLE TROUBLE ALSO KNOW  DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK I WILL NOT BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR WIRE FIRES WRONG INSTALL OR DUMB MISTAKES GOOD LUCK 

FED WHITE BOL01192018.pdf

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