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Still Not Sold On A Catch Can? Check Here...


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5 hours ago, SS502 said:

Just an FYI...let’s assume you’re right and the condensation in the can freezes up, if the can is emptied as it should be the condensation (water) would be the top layer of what’s in the can

I think it's even simpler than that.  Condensation, as a rule, tends to form the most on the interior surface of an enclosure.  In a typical can, this is the sides, bottom (if emptly) and of course the top--which is bottom surface of the separator.  You could have a block of ice in the bottom of the can and a layer of it on the top (bottom of the separator) and still have air freely flow through it.  Of course, if over-full such that the filter is submerged in water this would no longer be the case so check it often.

 

I haven't followed this thread much as I typically find the arguments against quite boring, but can add my results.  My truck is parked indoors mostly so what comes out of my can is not quite pure oil, but it's certainly a high percentage.  And yes, I did lose over 1/2 quart on this last run of oil--which included a couple thousand miles of towing in the mountains.  I fail to see any wisdom in pouring that oil into my intake.

 

 

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Water will be on the bottom.  Oil and distillates will be on top.  Oil floats on top of water.

Condensation forms on the warm surface opposite the cold one, or inside the catch can in winter, due to the warmer PCV vapor.

 

 

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56 minutes ago, Jon A said:

I think it's even simpler than that.  Condensation, as a rule, tends to form the most on the interior surface of an enclosure.  In a typical can, this is the sides, bottom (if emptly) and of course the top--which is bottom surface of the separator.  You could have a block of ice in the bottom of the can and a layer of it on the top (bottom of the separator) and still have air freely flow through it.  Of course, if over-full such that the filter is submerged in water this would no longer be the case so check it often.

 

I haven't followed this thread much as I typically find the arguments against quite boring, but can add my results.  My truck is parked indoors mostly so what comes out of my can is not quite pure oil, but it's certainly a high percentage.  And yes, I did lose over 1/2 quart on this last run of oil--which included a couple thousand miles of towing in the mountains.  I fail to see any wisdom in pouring that oil into my intake.

 

 

Yeah had my layers back asswards but you made clear what I was trying to say ?

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Mine comes out like this once or twice a month. Never seen much of any thing that looks like water. Not sure why it wouldn't regularly burn off with engine temps.
A lot of folks mention the need for with/without pictures to believe the need for CC. If they are serious, use a search engine. I found several on mustang, BMW, and corvette forms. d7d0f1f3d282e5bad47b0aeab2a806df.jpg

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On 12/27/2015 at 5:40 PM, krdeal said:

 

You can't add anything to the fuel system to correct this problem. Your fuel system no longer goes down this path as the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber. Only fresh air and that age old PVC system go down this path now in DI engines. PVC oil has been around forever, it wasn't an issue until DI engines came around. All these folks talking about there past experiences mean nothing if it was not a DI engine they are comparing to. This is a new issue, even though catch cans have been around for ever.

ummm - yeah but you know you can run sea foam directly into the intake via the PCV correct? That would definitely do some good cleaning up the plenum/valves, no? Explain how it wouldn't - using the same rationale as to how/why a catch can is helpful you should see running sea foam through the PCV valve entry point would also allow the sea foam to target oil/carbon buildup in that area of the engine.

 

Some Chevy Colorado owner had good results doing this: https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/185-2nd-gen-engines-technical-discussion/302562-intake-valve-cleaning-results-learn-my-mistake.html

 

CRC sales guy explaining how it'd work (the tech video is redundant if you're already involved in this thread you probably understand the basic differences between traditional port vs. direct injection): 

 

 

Again - I've posted a number of times about the catch cans my biggest problem is that its an immediate warranty red flag excuse for the dealer (you can convince yourself otherwise, but it is), it catches some of that oily vapor sure....all if it? Very doubtful, carbon build up is probably still occuring & since you're removing a good bit of the frothy/moisture rich oily residue sloshing around my guess is the carbon buildup that does still occur is some pretty hard caked on stuff (think about it), many fleet vehicles w/ these same engines have been running hard their whole lives now w/ 6 figure+ ODO's & the consensus from techs/garages working on these vehicles & seeing them opened up is the buildup isn't any worse than any other vehicle & they still run fine - this could also lend some support to the idea that "hard run" GDI equipped vehicles exhibit less carbon buildup than babied grocery getters too - debate still out on that.

 

So for me I'd prefer just running some sea foam or CRC once every 30k - this vid clearly shows you what seafoam/CRC can do on what is clearly a higher mileage, gunked up, daily driver GDI equipped vehicle (I may be wrong but looks like this car may actually HAVE a catch can already?) - at any rate, you can SEE the results of what these cleaners can do on what are already very dirty valves - a 2nd treatment & a couple hundred miles & my guess is they'd be completely free of buildup.

 

No warranty issues & you KNOW you're getting at ALL the buildup/deposits of carbon - not just SOME of the frothy oily mix the catch can, can "catch" ;-)

Fast forward to about 9:15 to avoid listening to this guy yap & just see the before/after results of the 2 products: 

 

 

I rest my case.

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1 hour ago, crushNchowda said:

ummm - yeah but you know you can run sea foam directly into the intake via the PCV correct? That would definitely do some good cleaning up the plenum/valves, no? Explain how it wouldn't - using the same rationale as to how/why a catch can is helpful you should see running sea foam through the PCV valve entry point would also allow the sea foam to target oil/carbon buildup in that area of the engine.

 

Some Chevy Colorado owner had good results doing this: https://www.coloradofans.com/forums/185-2nd-gen-engines-technical-discussion/302562-intake-valve-cleaning-results-learn-my-mistake.html

 

CRC sales guy explaining how it'd work (the tech video is redundant if you're already involved in this thread you probably understand the basic differences between traditional port vs. direct injection): 

 

 

Again - I've posted a number of times about the catch cans my biggest problem is that its an immediate warranty red flag excuse for the dealer (you can convince yourself otherwise, but it is), it catches some of that oily vapor sure....all if it? Very doubtful, carbon build up is probably still occuring & since you're removing a good bit of the frothy/moisture rich oily residue sloshing around my guess is the carbon buildup that does still occur is some pretty hard caked on stuff (think about it), many fleet vehicles w/ these same engines have been running hard their whole lives now w/ 6 figure+ ODO's & the consensus from techs/garages working on these vehicles & seeing them opened up is the buildup isn't any worse than any other vehicle & they still run fine - this could also lend some support to the idea that "hard run" GDI equipped vehicles exhibit less carbon buildup than babied grocery getters too - debate still out on that.

 

So for me I'd prefer just running some sea foam or CRC once every 30k - this vid clearly shows you what seafoam/CRC can do on what is clearly a higher mileage, gunked up, daily driver GDI equipped vehicle (I may be wrong but looks like this car may actually HAVE a catch can already?) - at any rate, you can SEE the results of what these cleaners can do on what are already very dirty valves - a 2nd treatment & a couple hundred miles & my guess is they'd be completely free of buildup.

 

No warranty issues & you KNOW you're getting at ALL the buildup/deposits of carbon - not just SOME of the frothy oily mix the catch can, can "catch" ;-)

Fast forward to about 9:15 to avoid listening to this guy yap & just see the before/after results of the 2 products: 

 

 

I rest my case.

Wonderful write up! Can you picture how much better it would be if you ran the stuff through every 30K WITH a can? I mean you could eat off those intake valves and still be hungry ? !! I will say again, do what makes you feel good, those of us who run one aren’t gonna take it off based on opinions voiced by those who don’t. Who really cares? I will run one until I sell the truck PERIOD. Those who don’t, well I applaud them to for being risk takers ?

Oh and I agree 100% on the warranty concerns!!!

Edited by SS502
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7 minutes ago, BigBlueLB756 said:

Now let me see; would I rather pay for a prevention or a treatment for a problem?

Hmmm;  I'll have to go think about this a while.

Back to y'all later.

Haha! You’re a realist ?

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This is what I’ve accumulated after 6,000 miles of driving (Pennzoil Platinum 0w20). I have a 2018 - purchased new in April - now with 20,000 mostly highway easy miles. At the start of the oil change interval it was warmer, as it got colder I started to collect more water/oil mixture. In all honsesty I do wonder if the water would have actually helped in cleaning the back of the intake valves, but I don’t think I’m catching everything anyway, so it probably isn’t really “hurting” that theory/thought anyway. And of course any picture I upload turns sideways, and I just wanted to note that the fluid and bottles do not have any actual gravity defying magical properties:)

953DA464-9713-40EF-B37A-6AAFC5EB8430.jpeg

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Those who don’t, well I applaud them to for being risk takers [emoji4]
Oh and I agree 100% on the warranty concerns!!!
You here that? Don't be a risk taker.
Void your warranty.



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