Jump to content

Texas speed headers


ChevyTrucks_95

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looks catted?

No cats, hollow.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

  • Replies 217
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

IMO... being a welder those welds look like shit, no craftsmanship at all! Get what you pay for and I doubt they make the power that ARH's, Kooks, Stainless Works make.

 

RT

If I was building a race car, I'd care. These will do just fine for the pig.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

If I was building a race car, I'd care. These will do just fine for the pig.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Why spend the money if you don't care? Manifolds would serve you well if your not looking for power.

 

RT

Posted

Why spend the money if you don't care? Manifolds would serve you well if your not looking for power.

 

RT

I want more power/tq, but if it's 23 hp for $600 or 26 hp for $1200.....my choice is easy for the truck.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

Why spend the money if you don't care? Manifolds would serve you well if your not looking for power.

 

RT

Also, if I would have gotten ARH for $700 like you did, I would have obviously gone that route! [emoji4]

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

IMO... being a welder those welds look like shit, no craftsmanship at all! Get what you pay for and I doubt they make the power that ARH's, Kooks, Stainless Works make.

 

RT

We get that you are a ARH and Kooks fan.if Have you ever had a set of TSP headers? They are very well made for the money. Not everybody wants to spend the outrageous amount for a set of Kooks or ARH when you can buy the TSP and make just as much power. And they will last as long or longer than the vehicle. I have a set installed on every vehicle I own and have never had a problem with any of them. They still look as good as the day I installed them.

Posted

Also, if I would have gotten ARH for $700 like you did, I would have obviously gone that route! [emoji4]

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

You do have a point there. I did get a sweet deal on them for sure.

 

RT

Posted

IMO... being a welder those welds look like shit, no craftsmanship at all! Get what you pay for and I doubt they make the power that ARH's, Kooks, Stainless Works make.

 

RT

If they make less power it's nothing you'll ever notice, I'd rather have the money diff in my pocket.

Posted

We get that you are a ARH and Kooks fan.if Have you ever had a set of TSP headers? They are very well made for the money. Not everybody wants to spend the outrageous amount for a set of Kooks or ARH when you can buy the TSP and make just as much power. And they will last as long or longer than the vehicle. I have a set installed on every vehicle I own and have never had a problem with any of them. They still look as good as the day I installed them.

Once you have afeel for the ARH you will neber want anything else.

 

I held mine and a pacesetter POS unit and you cant even dare to compair the 2.

 

The Texas speed look like a mid range between like Pacesetter crap and kooks/ARH/Stainless works.

 

You get what you pay for. Period.

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

Posted

I agree with the get what you pay for bit, but ive had pacesetter and Texas speed. Both fit perfect, both still look good. I run TS on my 01 and have had them for 5 years no problems. I ran TS on my 08 for a year and no problems. My dad has armor coat pacesetters on his 08 vmax and has run em through all sorts of mud, salt, dirt, water with no problems and they still look good. When they make the same power, I'd rather have the difference I saved for other mods. Almost 500-800$ is kept in my pocket I'm Guessin? I've never looked at ARH or kooks for that price reason. Now have armor coat pacesetters on my 14 6.2 and they still look new after a year. Maybe they're made better, but I haven't had any problems with any set of pacesetters or TS I've installed and they're at a fraction of the cost. Works for me

Posted

Install, 6 hours away and counting.

 

If there are any pic requests of the headers before they go on, please let me know.

Posted

Install, 6 hours away and counting.

 

If there are any pic requests of the headers before they go on, please let me know.

 

Maybe pics of inside primary, collectors, merge etc?

 

Really curious about install you should do a write up. I havent seen any for these trucks.

Posted

Install, 6 hours away and counting.

 

If there are any pic requests of the headers before they go on, please let me know.

I didn't go back through the pages..I was just reading on this page.. my goodness fellas it's his money. Please post pics so I can see the headers on your truck. And also a sound clip before and after.. if you can. Thankyou!!!

Posted

I'll post up some pics tomorrow.

 

First thing I have to say though, as my setup is too loud now. I will have to either get that 22" Magnaflow or find a stock catback.

 

Header fitment is great. Y Pipe needs some work, it's nearly touching the Transmission crossmember. Worst part right now is the exhaust leak from the Y ball where it connects to the catback. The OEM clamp can't seem to get tight enough to prevent a leak there.

 

So, I have some adjustments to work on to get rid of some leaks...it's going to be a work in progress.

Posted

I'll post up some pics tomorrow.

 

First thing I have to say though, as my setup is too loud now. I will have to either get that 22" Magnaflow or find a stock catback.

 

Header fitment is great. Y Pipe needs some work, it's nearly touching the Transmission crossmember. Worst part right now is the exhaust leak from the Y ball where it connects to the catback. The OEM clamp can't seem to get tight enough to prevent a leak there.

 

So, I have some adjustments to work on to get rid of some leaks...it's going to be a work in progress.

Are you going to try having the y pipe moved because of the crossmember or will it be fine? Also do you think that having the y pipe and exhaust welded get rid of the leak and be better than clamps

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If what you are doing works, keep doing it:   4LO (Four-Wheel Drive Low) should only be used in extreme low-speed, high-torque situations such as deep mud, heavy snow, steep rock crawling, or extreme inclines/declines, and you must follow the correct engagement procedure to avoid drivetrain damage. Intended Use Cases Deep mud or snow where traction is extremely poor and you need maximum torque to get unstuck Trucks Only+1. Rock crawling on steep, uneven terrain forum.fullsizechevy.com+1. Extreme inclines or declines where you need to control speed and maintain traction solutionsphere.blog. Heavy towing in low-traction conditions (e.g., deep sand, ice) carclubsusa.com.
    • Hi,   I work a steep boat landing that has patchy blacktop going down the hill and soft sand/gravel at the bottom. Due to low water levels, it's not always possible reach the blacktop. I've had to help several people get out this year already and with fall coming, I'm anticipating more. I always use 4L. There was a gentleman there today with a 2500 HD (actually 2 - him and his son both have them) and they were trying to get his son's wake boat out. This gentleman swears that you should use 4H in the soft gravel. Says he was a farmer and you always use higher gear when stuck. I was wonder what your thoughts on this are? If I'm wrong, it would be good to find out before things get busy.
    • Looking for feedback from users of roll up aluminum slat bed covers who have had it for more than 3 years. I prefer the aluminum slat style over supported vinyl covers due to security and the capacity to support a light load. The slight loss of bed opening when rolled up is not an issue. Presently have BAK Revolver the "industrial grade vinyl overlay" on mine is shrinking & coming loose at the rear and on both sides in addition to cracking at some of the folding joints. Truck lives outdoors in NC latitude. Can't justify the steep price to replace it with another one if that's the expected lifespan. Do you have a better alternative?
    • Thanks, your last sentence is the root of my problem, outdoors truck and southern latitude = UV overload. Looking at replacing with Rough Country powder coated aluminum slat roll up model. 
    • I’m looking at putting a lift in my 2024 gmc sierra 1500 elevation trim, has anyone had any luck with fitting a bigger tire under the rear for a spare?? Was gonna go with a 4 inch zone lift Also what wheel and tire size setup are you all running? Wondering if I can get away with keeping around the stock size a 33 inch, and just get some new wheels to have enough back spacing then I can just keep my original spare tire I have under the truck now.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...