Jump to content

Anyone with a 1inch level or 1.5" leveling kit

silveradonationfan15

Recommended Posts

ragin_cajuns Enthusiast

ragin_cajuns

Posted
Posted

i have the 2.25 inch pro comp leveling kit and i think mine still looks a little nose down. I'd prefer it a little more level but everyone is different. had mine installed at 4 wheel parts in coppell, tx. last time i ever go there for anything. incompetence, contradictory information from different people. sorry i paid them money to do anything on my truck.

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Horacio Enthusiast

Horacio

Posted
Posted

I have Motofab 1.5" lift spacers I'd like to sell. I had them in for 2 days before replacing with 1".

Send me a PM if interested.

You'll get them quicker from me. ;)

  • 2 months later...
SierraMyst Enthusiast

SierraMyst

Posted
Posted

I have Motofab 1.5" lift spacers I'd like to sell. I had them in for 2 days before replacing with 1".

Send me a PM if interested.

You'll get them quicker from me. ;)

Why'd you go down to 1"?

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

i have the 2.25 inch pro comp leveling kit and i think mine still looks a little nose down. I'd prefer it a little more level but everyone is different. had mine installed at 4 wheel parts in coppell, tx. last time i ever go there for anything. incompetence, contradictory information from different people. sorry i paid them money to do anything on my truck.

 

What does a 2.25 level have to do with the 1.5 level thread? Or were you just trying to find an opportunity to hop in and bash a company that did you no wrong? I have had multiple friends get work done there and personally have purchased stuff there, no issues.

 

There are tons of different types and manufacturers that produce levels, each person won't know exactly off hand which is what with all the different ways to level and companies. They gave you exactly what you asked for, what is the problem? You could have easily taken a quick glance under to verify. I think it has more to do with not doing your homework and jumping in to something the day you pick up your new truck with out proper research, they installed what you wanted...

 

Tyler

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

Why'd you go down to 1"?

 

Curious on that as well, won't make much a difference in anything (from looks to wear). Seems like a lot of extra work and money for minimal gains (or losses).

 

Tyler

dwebster Enthusiast

dwebster

Posted
Posted

I'm looking into getting a leveling kit BUT I do not want the front of the truck higher than the rear. I seen there is a 2inch level and a 2.25 inch leveling kits but I am not interested in that. I wants to get a inch leveling kit or 1.5 inch MAX. But I am wondering if anyone else has one?

I have the Rough Country 2.5 level/lift kit with 1" rear blocks. Sits very nice (my opinion)8e99bedad0150255cf070b818b46ec04.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 9 months later...
Sheriff3006 Enthusiast

Sheriff3006

Posted
Posted
1.5 in level (1 on top/.5 on bottom) in my garage the wheel wells measure 39 all around. this is curious because before the kit and tires I measured 36.6 in the front and 39 in the back. I can't really explain that, but I'm glad I only went with the 1.5 vs the 2.0 or 2.5. Tires are BFG KO2 285/65/18. As you can see from the various images, it depends on where you stand on how "level" it looks.

IMG 5261


IMG 5272


IMG 5265

silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted

has anyone compared the rpo codes with what the 1.5 lift my truck has z82 and z85 heavy tralering option and the 1.5 lift definately made my truck ride rougher

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

 

1.5 in level (1 on top/.5 on bottom) in my garage the wheel wells measure 39 all around. this is curious because before the kit and tires I measured 36.6 in the front and 39 in the back. I can't really explain that, but I'm glad I only went with the 1.5 vs the 2.0 or 2.5. Tires are BFG KO2 285/65/18. As you can see from the various images, it depends on where you stand on how "level" it looks.

 

 

Mine has 1" front end lift, recently measured at 37.5" front, 39" rear (275/65-18, 32" ht). I think your numbers are within the range, maybe a little higher in the front than expected. By the numbers, yours should sit 3/4" higher in the front than mine at 38-1/4" (added 1/2" lift and 1/4" added tire radius). With that said, going to assume your tires are LT (?) which would also add to it. Running Michelins on my truck at 35psi cold, sidewall does have some flex. Good info for comparison.

Sheriff3006 Enthusiast

Sheriff3006

Posted
Posted

Yes, they are LT tires. I've driven it over a route that I drive daily and it seems to be more stable than before. It doesn't seem rougher as all. In fact, it rides nicer. The acceleration is slower, but I'm ok with that to get a tire that won't rip a sidewalk while I'm out hunting as my stock tires did. As for the measurements, If I went from 36.6 to 39 in the front (2.4 in overall) due to 1.5 inches with the kit and an in increase in tire size, I would think that I would get an in additional inch in the rear. Maybe raising the front transferred center of gravity to the rear a little. Overall I'm very pleased with the look. Just what I wanted.

  • 3 weeks later...
Sheriff3006 Enthusiast

Sheriff3006

Posted
Posted

Sheriff, do you know what offset you are running on those rims?

They are the stock rims that came with the truck. Not sure of the offset. I can take better picture down the side if you like.

spencer52356 Enthusiast

spencer52356

Posted
Posted

I believe the stock offset is 25mm on a 2015 18" rim. I am trying to get right to and not outside the fender. I was thinking 0 to +15 offset with the 285/65 tires. You don't have any rubbing issues at full turn?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...