Jump to content

Looking to actually gain some MPG

Justin Nachazel

Recommended Posts

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Normally the max "safe" height without drop brackets is 2.5" but I think even that's stretching it. I did 2" and have approximately 30k on it with no issues.

 

60k is definitely a stretch especially at 3" lift, but every truck is different as well as parts

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply
robvas Enthusiast

robvas

Posted
Posted

drive slow

low rolling resistance tires

more side skirts

speed tape

smaller mirrors

 

check out the stuff they did with the XFE trucks. Doing all that is barely going to get you 1mpg lol

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Pretend there is a raw egg between your foot and the skinny pedal.

 

Use the fuel economy screen to see what helps.

 

I don't know what traffic conditions you run in, but if slowing down will improve fuel economy.

 

Always remember that a steady speed is better than speeding up and slowing down. Drive with patience.

 

Give serious consideration to lowering the rear instead of raising the front if the rake bothers you. Lifting the truck to look cool is costing you more than you think. Side skirts and air dams on highway trucks and race cars are there for a reason - raising the truck has the opposite effect.

dbcooper748 Enthusiast

dbcooper748

Posted
Posted

I have seen different versions of these kits over the years and advertised on craigslist, I would be curious of some real world posting in regards to this.

 

 

http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/

Yea, for a grand, id like to see some real life results...
TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted

Range sells two AFM products that increase the time in V4 to 50% and 90% I think. I know nothing about the results, but you could be the first to try.

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

3" level is quite extreme for an IFS truck, honestly id recommend deceasing it for longevity.

 

That being said, no need to attack other members. He was simply stating a fact and trying to help out, just like you asked for. Tuner is the best way to go, disable AFM and increase tq/ hp. Everything else is just a waste of $$

 

He asked for better MPG, disabling AFM is the opposite of what the OP is looking for...

 

OP, take off the lift, that will help. You look to be nose high (or possibly level) so that ruins some of the aero on the highway. Having stock tires your city mpg won't change much but it will help on the highway. Keep the valence too, it was put on there for the reason of better mpg and directing air away from under the chassis (that is a large point of drag) and tires at highway speeds; the lift puts that stuff more in the air. You won't gain back a ton (maybe a MPG if that was lost before) but you will gain back some and you will save your front end components from premature failure.

 

Tyler

Justin Nachazel Enthusiast

Justin Nachazel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

He asked for better MPG, disabling AFM is the opposite of what the OP is looking for...

 

OP, take off the lift, that will help. You look to be nose high (or possibly level) so that ruins some of the aero on the highway. Having stock tires your city mpg won't change much but it will help on the highway. Keep the valence too, it was put on there for the reason of better mpg and directing air away from under the chassis (that is a large point of drag) and tires at highway speeds; the lift puts that stuff more in the air. You won't gain back a ton (maybe a MPG if that was lost before) but you will gain back some and you will save your front end components from premature failure.

 

Tyler

Shoot so basically I don't think Im going to get back mpg then because I don't want to lose the lift. Id rather have the lift on it, and in 60k mi when the ball joints go out just replace them and do a suspension lift instead or upgrade the truck to a 2500. Thank you for answering the air dam question I had been wondering about that. Im not getting super horrible milage (19mpg avg) but I was just looking for some additions that might help with adding maybe 1 or 2 more. I want to get more aggressive tires eventually and was looking for a way to offset it. The front is actually .5in lower than the back too.

 

Justin

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

Shoot so basically I don't think Im going to get back mpg then because I don't want to lose the lift. Id rather have the lift on it, and in 60k mi when the ball joints go out just replace them and do a suspension lift instead or upgrade the truck to a 2500. Thank you for answering the air dam question I had been wondering about that. Im not getting super horrible milage (19mpg avg) but I was just looking for some additions that might help with adding maybe 1 or 2 more. I want to get more aggressive tires eventually and was looking for a way to offset it. The front is actually .5in lower than the back too.

 

Justin

 

You can expect to lose a little more when you put more aggressive tires on. When you do just stay P rated, going with an LT tire that is E rated will take another chunk out of your mileage.

 

A tonneau might gain back a 1/4 or 1/2 mpg on the highway at best. Other than that there really isn't much else that can be done.

 

This is a good read on the aerodynamics of the new trucks, pretty cool to see the pics too.

 

http://media.gmc.com/media/us/en/gmc/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2013/May/0516-gmc-pickup-aero.html

 

Tyler

Justin Nachazel Enthusiast

Justin Nachazel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

You can expect to lose a little more when you put more aggressive tires on. When you do just stay P rated, going with an LT tire that is E rated will take another chunk out of your mileage.

 

A tonneau might gain back a 1/4 or 1/2 mpg on the highway at best. Other than that there really isn't much else that can be done.

 

This is a good read on the aerodynamics of the new trucks, pretty cool to see the pics too.

 

http://media.gmc.com/media/us/en/gmc/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2013/May/0516-gmc-pickup-aero.html

 

Tyler

 

About how much would I lose with a little more aggressive tire but maybe 33s? My tonneau cover didn't increase gas milage at all lol. Thats great info!

dbcooper748 Enthusiast

dbcooper748

Posted
Posted

About how much would I lose with a little more aggressive tire but maybe 33s? My tonneau cover didn't increase gas milage at all lol. Thats great info!

 

Im running a 2inch level + 33" nitto terra grappler All terrain E rated tire on XD 22"s and took a road trip last weekend. I got 19-20 mpg on the interstate. I get about 15-17 around town
Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

I dumped the factory oil at 2200 miles and switched to Amsoil synthetic. When I did, the average mpg went up 1 mpg.

 

I've heard that tonneau covers increase about 1/2 - 1 mpg on the hwy, but I cannot confirm this.

 

Best mpg advice I have is to remove non-necessity items from the truck and drive easy to save fuel and brakes like I do.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...