Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar install

[mikepol2]

Today I installed a Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar on my 2015 crew cab and thought I pass along some notes...

Saw it listed for upwards of $400 on some websites, but got it from SDTruckSprings.com for $225 delivered with a 15% Black Friday discount.

Install took about 2-1/2 hours. The instructions that come with it are pretty crappy.

• I did not have to remove the spare tire as suggested in the instructions, but I have a long (maybe 12 inch) 1/2" drive ratchet extension and a universal joint that is necessary if you don't remove the tire.
• The supplied lubricant, if you've never used the white suspension bushing lube, is VERY sticky and a PIA to clean off your tools and hands. I used disposable gloves to apply it. I used a vice to press the four end link bushings into the end links.
• I did NOT have to relocate the emergency brake cable as listed in the instructions. Also, there is a brake line clamp behind the E-brake cable on the same mounting bolt that the instructions do not tell you what to do with, but I didn't have to mess with that either.
• There are cables running over the tubular crossmember under the bed where the upper U-bolts go. Make sure you wiggle the U-bolts under the connectors so you don't pinch them, you can't see them.
• I did not trust the torque values in the instructions. Seems that the U-bolts will just keep torquing as long as you want them to without clicking the torque wrench, but I think they may start to crush the crossmember if you put too much force into it.
• It did not line up perfectly on each side. I had to put the bar outside the end link with a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side, but inside the sway bar with no spacer on the passenger side. The end links seemed to line up best in the middle of the 3 holes in the end of the bar.

I downloaded an inclinometer app and measured the body roll around a curve at 35 mph. The sway bar reduced the body roll by about 3 degrees. You can definitely tell that the truck corners flatter. It's no corvette but definitely better.

All in all for $225, IMO it is a worthwhile upgrade. See ya!

Edited December 12, 2015 by mikepol2

[fondupot]

Been thinking about adding one of these. But I've heard it could make the ride less smooth. Did you notice any rougher ride after installing?

[mikepol2]

Been thinking about adding one of these. But I've heard it could make the ride less smooth. Did you notice any rougher ride after installing?

Yes, I think the ride is probably a little rougher in the back. But to me it's pretty minor compared to the improvement in cornering (I like to drive fast). If it gets too annoying I'll just replace the 20" wheels with 18's, I've done this in the past to get a smoother ride and it works great.

[Silver ice 6.2]

Yes, I think the ride is probably a little rougher in the back. But to me it's pretty minor compared to the improvement in cornering (I like to drive fast). If it gets too annoying I'll just replace the 20" wheels with 18's, I've done this in the past to get a smoother ride and it works great.

Did you happen to take any progress pics? Or pics of the install

[mikepol2]

Did you happen to take any progress pics? Or pics of the install

 

I didn't take any pics...there are pics in the installation instructions that are helpful, although they're not the best quality. It was the items in my original post that weren't in the instructions that will be the biggest help if anybody else installs one.

[Strykers_Inc]

Today I installed a Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar on my 2015 crew cab and thought I pass along some notes...

Saw it listed for upwards of $400 on some websites, but got it from SDTruckSprings.com for $225 delivered with a 15% Black Friday discount.

Install took about 2-1/2 hours. The instructions that come with it are pretty crappy.

 

• I did not have to remove the spare tire as suggested in the instructions, but I have a long (maybe 12 inch) 1/2" drive ratchet extension and a universal joint that is necessary if you don't remove the tire.
• The supplied lubricant, if you've never used the white suspension bushing lube, is VERY sticky and a PIA to clean off your tools and hands. I used disposable gloves to apply it. I used a vice to press the four end link bushings into the end links.
• I did NOT have to relocate the emergency brake cable as listed in the instructions. Also, there is a brake line clamp behind the E-brake cable on the same mounting bolt that the instructions do not tell you what to do with, but I didn't have to mess with that either.
• There are cables running over the tubular crossmember under the bed where the upper U-bolts go. Make sure you wiggle the U-bolts under the connectors so you don't pinch them, you can't see them.
• I did not trust the torque values in the instructions. Seems that the U-bolts will just keep torquing as long as you want them to without clicking the torque wrench, but I think they may start to crush the crossmember if you put too much force into it.
• It did not line up perfectly on each side. I had to put the bar outside the end link with a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side, but inside the sway bar with no spacer on the passenger side. The end links seemed to line up best in the middle of the 3 holes in the end of the bar.

I downloaded an inclinometer app and measured the body roll around a curve at 35 mph. The sway bar reduced the body roll by about 3 degrees. You can definitely tell that the truck corners flatter. It's no corvette but definitely better.

All in all for $225, IMO it is a worthwhile upgrade. See ya!

Appreciate the post. I have had both the front and rear Hellwigs for at least 6 months and won't be installing until spring. Been planning a small drop to level so until I get that figured out I didn't want to mess with the suspension yet. In one install I plan to add the hellwigs, Wilwood big brake kit, bilstein 4600's (which are all on hand), and the drop (not on hand - not sure what it's going to be).

 

The notes you posted will come in handy.

[mikepol2]

Appreciate the post. I have had both the front and rear Hellwigs for at least 6 months and won't be installing until spring. Been planning a small drop to level so until I get that figured out I didn't want to mess with the suspension yet. In one install I plan to add the hellwigs, Wilwood big brake kit, bilstein 4600's (which are all on hand), and the drop (not on hand - not sure what it's going to be).

 

The notes you posted will come in handy.

 

Looks like plenty of adjustment room in the two end links for a drop. (I think you can just take out the factory rear spring blocks for a quick and free 1-1/2" drop.) Great glad to be able to help.

[Strykers_Inc]

Looks like plenty of adjustment room in the two end links for a drop. (I think you can just take out the factory rear spring blocks for a quick and free 1-1/2" drop.) Great glad to be able to help.

Yep, was thinking about that, but would rather go with shackles or a complete belltech spindle kit. But don't want it slammed.

[65Wetdog]

Thanks for the info on the Hellwig sway. At $225 I'll be shopping for one tonight.

 

I did a 2/3 drop yesterday. A family drop. Couldn't be happier

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155864-2014-lowering-drop-kits/page-42

[PMattras]

I like the Hellwig rear sway bars and put them on as soon as I got my truck.

 

FYI.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158639-2014-rear-sway-bar-by-hellwig/?hl=swaybars

 

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2015 by PMattras

[07Softail]

I installed the 7735 on my truck today and it made a helluva difference, This thing corners on rails now I highly recommend it. $225 shipped from SD Truck Springs.

 

RT

[Cooldaddygroove]

Agreed, put Hellwig's swaybar on my 2015 RCSB, and it handles significantly better, even low speed city driving/turning.

 

Question for the OP. The bar allows you to have 3 different settings, soft, medium, and stiff. My shop set me up on the softest. Where are you set at?

[Lamby66]

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, but I am getting one of the Hellwig 7735 rear sway bars for my truck and before I open it I am a little concerned about clearance. MikePol2, I noticed you had a 2015 with a 6.2 and used your post as a reference that this part will fit my 2016 with the 6.2... did you have any problems with clearance with the resonator? it looks like it might be in the way (based on the pictures)

 

Please let me know I dont want to open the box to find out its wrong and then have an issue returning it.

 

Thanks in advance

[starbuck62a]

I installed a Hellwig 7735 on my 2016 Sierra 6.2L crew this weekend. Here are some notes I think you may find helpful. These notes are not a replacement for the instructions supplied with the sway bar kit!

1. I did mine in the driveway on my back, very uncomfortable. If you have ramps or a drive-on lift it will be much easier. I did not remove the spare.

2. Besides the obvious sockets and box wrenches, the following are required: 11/16" and 3/4" deep sockets for u-bolts, 12" ratchet extension (2 x 6" works well), side cutters, torque wrench, some pieces of wood if you are doing it on a flat surface by yourself.

3. First thing you need to do is remove the axle-diameter sized plastic clip that holds the brake line on the passenger side next to the differential. If you remove this band it is easy to align the bar so it is evenly positioned. I could not get it lose so I used side cutters to careful free the brake line.

4. The instructions suggest the brake line/parking brake bracket should be relocated and with the band removed it is a good idea. A few extra washers were required to make the connection sturdy. Be very gentle when moving the brake line as you don't want to bend it. You now have lots of space for the sway bar bracket.

5. I pre-assembled the end-links including attaching the upper clevis brackets. If you do this, it makes the end-link assemblies easier to install and you won't have problems with torquing the clevis/end-link bolt after it is installed. Remember to use a little of the the supplied lubricant within each end-link loop before pressing/hammering in the hourglass bushings. This allows them to be inserted easier and allows the end-link to move more freely after assembly.

6. Make sure the U-bolts are under any brake lines, hoses or wires. The tubular cross member above the spare tire has hidden wires attached to it that can't be seen from below. The passenger side is easily avoided but the driver side wire is tighter to cross member and could be easily pinched. The axle brake lines are very visible.

7. Attaching the sway bar to the axle can be awkward if you only have two hands. I did mine on the driveway so I used some wood to prop up the sway bar so I could easily connect the bar at the point where the D-shaped poly-bushings attach to the axle and the saddle brackets. Make sure you lube the D-shaped poly-bushings well where they clamp around the sway bar. You don't want any squeaks.

8. I attached the end-links to the center hole of the three holes on the sway bar end. Because my sway bar was perfectly centered over the differential I had to use the longer bolts and the spacers, one on each end-link.

9. I had no trouble torquing all the supplied hardware to 35 ft lbs.

Edited May 1, 2017 by starbuck62a

[starbuck62a]

 

I installed a Hellwig 7735 on my 2016 Sierra 6.2L crew this weekend. Here are some notes I think you may find helpful. These notes are not a replacement for the instructions supplied with the sway bar kit!

1. I did mine in the driveway on my back, very uncomfortable. If you have ramps or a drive-on lift it will be much easier. I did not remove the spare.

2. Besides the obvious sockets and box wrenches, the following are required: 11/16" and 3/4" deep sockets for u-bolts, 12" ratchet extension (2 x 6" works well), side cutters, torque wrench, some pieces of wood if you are doing it on a flat surface by yourself.

3. First thing you need to do is remove the axle-diameter sized plastic clip that holds the brake line on the passenger side next to the differential. If you remove this band it is easy to align the bar so it is evenly positioned. I could not get it lose so I used side cutters to careful free the brake line.

4. The instructions suggest the brake line/parking brake bracket should be relocated and with the band removed it is a good idea. A few extra washers were required to make the connection sturdy. Be very gentle when moving the brake line as you don't want to bend it. You now have lots of space for the sway bar bracket.

5. I pre-assembled the end-links including attaching the upper clevis brackets. If you do this, it makes the end-link assemblies easier to install and you won't have problems with torquing the clevis/end-link bolt after it is installed. Remember to use a little of the the supplied lubricant within each end-link loop before pressing/hammering in the hourglass bushings. This allows them to be inserted easier and allows the end-link to move more freely after assembly.

6. Make sure the U-bolts are under any brake lines, hoses or wires. The tubular cross member above the spare tire has hidden wires attached to it that can't be seen from below. The passenger side is easily avoided but the driver side wire is tighter to cross member and could be easily pinched. The axle brake lines are very visible.

7. Attaching the sway bar to the axle can be awkward if you only have two hands. I did mine on the driveway so I used some wood to prop up the sway bar so I could easily connect the bar at the point where the D-shaped poly-bushings attach to the axle and the saddle brackets. Make sure you lube the D-shaped poly-bushings well where they clamp around the sway bar. You don't want any squeaks.

8. I attached the end-links to the center hole of the three holes on the sway bar end. Because my sway bar was perfectly centered over the differential I had to use the longer bolts and the spacers, one on each end-link.

9. I had no trouble torquing all the supplied hardware to 35 ft lbs.

 

Here are are pics of the end-links and sway bar installed.

Edited May 1, 2017 by starbuck62a