Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I noticed at 20k the coolant was below the cold fill mark about 3/4" when cold. Filled it back up with distilled H2O. I now have 33K and the coolant is about an inch below the cold fill mark when cold. I investigated to find a slight odor near the top corner of the radiator on the drivers side. I looked closer and noticed that the metal tabs are cracked in this area. I can not see a physical leak yet but can tell its leaking a bit faster. Off to the dealership AGAIN! Problem # I lost count.

post-124852-0-42629900-1451136948.jpg

post-124852-0-42629900-1451136948.jpg

post-124852-0-42629900-1451136948.jpg

post-124852-0-42629900-1451136948.jpg

Edited by fireaxxe
Posted

There is a tsb for that very concern. Needs a radiator and thermostat. Thermostat cycles too much causing stress cracks in the radiator.

Posted

Checked mine 1is broke and one truck is fine.No known coolant leaks. How long will this be covered by warranty?

Posted

Sometimes radiators with plastic tanks develop microscopic cracks that will cause slow coolant leaks, but you will not see the crack with a naked eye. I had a crack like that on the upper hose neck on my Mazda 626 radiator. It happened after 200k miles, and I could see a drop of coolant oozing from the invisible crack. I was loosing about a quart of coolant per month this way.

Posted

For the last month I've been getting cool and smell from the front of my engine with the hood closed when I'm at a drive thru it's a very noticeable the smell just sitting and idling dealer says that no leak I wonder what this Technical Service Bulletin is myself anyone have a link to the bulletin

Posted

I just checked mine the driver side is cracked I looked and shined a flashlight on the passenger side its not cracked but the top of the rad in the core is all wet and leaking

Posted (edited)

Here is a link to a possible wide spread issue.

 

http://oemdtc.com/25613/coolant-smell-andor-slight-leak-at-radiator-2014-2015-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc-vehicles

 

 

Also I checked the part numbers to see what I could expect when it comes to availability of a radiator, just in case I needed to replace mine. I can not find my part number and there are only two others that I can find. It seems as if GM already has a new part number for the replacement radiator.

 

My Current Radiator part #23431774

 

*New W/O Max Tow package Replacement part #23445967*

 

** Possible New W/Max Tow package Replacement part #23126402**

 

(Not sure if the Max Tow Radiator part number was changed as I have nothing to compare it to. Is there anyone with the Max Tow Package that can confirm this?)

 

This number is located on the upper corner of the radiator on the passenger side.

Edited by fireaxxe
  • Like 2
Posted

I just got off the phone with my dealership they looked on my VIN and there is a special repair notice attached to it for this issue I haven't booked in on Thursday and they're giving me a rental truck until it's fixed they also told me there is a fuel sensor that has to be replaced

Posted

I just got off the phone with my dealership they looked on my VIN and there is a special repair notice attached to it for this issue I haven't booked in on Thursday and they're giving me a rental truck until it's fixed they also told me there is a fuel sensor that has to be replaced

What year and model is your truck?

Posted

My crew cab is cracked and double cab is not cracked. Wonder if this is a trend?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...