Jump to content

What damage could be hidden.

Jerry6079

Recommended Posts

Jerry6079 New Member

Jerry6079

Posted
Posted

On Tuesday January 12 2016 I had an oil change and a tire rotation done on my Sierra. The dealer did not tighten the lug nuts on the driver side. I found out the hard way I was pulling out of the dealers lot made it a 100 feet or so and boom lost my tire. I walked back in the service department to let them know. The shop for an came and jacked the front of the truck up and the back wheel fell off also. What damage might be hidden besides the ball joint they are gonna replace and the two rims and one rotor?

  • Replies 33
  • Created
  • Last Reply
sahls01gmc Senior Enthusiast

sahls01gmc

Posted
Posted

How did the back wheel fall off when they jacked up the front? Did they put any of the lugnuts back on? I would inspect body damage on the front end. Also, check all 4 wheels for damage from the studs. The dealer did this? Wow..... And people wonder why I do everything in my own driveway.

muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

Posted
Posted

Have the truck put on a lift and inspect it with a fine toothed comb for any dents, scratches, or bends. I would make them change out the complete control arm instead of just the ball joint. Have a 4 wheel alignment. When the tire and wheels came off, did they hit the fenders and or bed in any way?

neokonig Enthusiast

neokonig

Posted
Posted

That is nuts, I could possibly see a lug nut miss torqued, but one, no wait two whole corners not tight at all. I image the impact could push the suspension bushings/connections a bit more than they were designed for, but not detrimental to function.

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
Posted

Long time ago I went to the truck to go to work. Start to pull out...something felt odd. Stopped truck, got out, walked around. Passenger side lugs nuts were gone! I look back in the driveway and there they lay, along with the tool they were using when they got spooked.

gilleydog Enthusiast

gilleydog

Posted
Posted

you need someone else look for damage other than that stupid dealer

ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

I'm not sue happy, but agree - lawsuit and a very stern conversation with service manager and maybe an email to GM.

 

I'd be going apesh** in the service department if this happened!

slj2008 Senior Enthusiast

slj2008

Posted
Posted

after the dealership fixes the problem , take it to a tire shop and have it recheck . Let the dealership paid for recheck & any other repairs if found . find a new dealership . hello GM you brought buy truck back .

mabran Enthusiast

mabran

Posted
Posted

I remember way back when (1999 or 2000) I took my s10 ZR2 in for an oil change They gave it back about an hour

later and I went to drive off and noticed the oil light was on. I popped the hood and the oil cap was sitting on the cover and was bone dry.

 

They did everything but add oil to the vehicle. They drained the oil, rotated the tires, topped off the windshield washer and everything BUT what I brought it in for.

 

I was ticked beyond belief at them but since I know the owner, I got an extended warranty out of it and a promise to them I would not bring my vehicle back for service as if I can't trust the service dept to do a simple oil change how can I trust them for more serious stuff.

 

I still buy my vehicles there but get service at a different dealer I trust with service. I have no problems with the sales folks as they treat me right but service is a whole separate entity all together.

mabran Enthusiast

mabran

Posted
Posted

I remember way back when (1999 or 2000) I took my s10 ZR2 in for an oil change They gave it back about an hour

later and I went to drive off and noticed the oil light was on. I popped the hood and the oil cap was sitting on the cover and was bone dry.

 

They did everything but add oil to the vehicle. They drained the oil, rotated the tires, topped off the windshield washer and everything BUT what I brought it in for.

 

I was ticked beyond belief at them but since I know the owner, I got an extended warranty out of it and a promise to them I would not bring my vehicle back for service as if I can't trust the service dept to do a simple oil change how can I trust them for more serious stuff.

 

I still buy my vehicles there but get service at a different dealer I trust with service. I have no problems with the sales folks as they treat me right but service is a whole separate entity all together.

scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

Looks like an excellent time for some trade-in assistance money from the offending dealer.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 566 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...