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Spring Clamps Reduce Rear Vibration

hotrodz37

By hotrodz37
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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DALaws Enthusiast

DALaws

Posted
Posted (edited)

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What do you think these marks mean? This is how I found it when it came out of shop when they told me all was okay. Well it's not, but was wondering what these marks are, and what were they trying to do>

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Edited by DALaws
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Ron.s
Ron.s

This will probably be my last post here. Here's the end of my story. Dealer two couldn't get GM to do anything but gave me the name of a local shop that specializes in suspension and "lifts". (Boi

Obscenejesster
Obscenejesster

Before adding the spring clamps, check the torque or your U-bolts. I suspect that many of them were either not tightened properly from the factory or they have came loose over time due to loctite not

Ron.s
Ron.s

Maybe the answer at last....   After a typical dealer visit I decided to try one last thing before replacing the Magneride shocks. First some history; I had the exact same truck in a 2014 that di

Posted Images

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gif20160411_161947 (3).jpg

 

What do you think these marks mean?

I think the line is to show what side of the pinion to line it up with AKA how it is clocked on the pinion and the letters probably signify to the technician who balanced the driveshaft
14silverado4.3 Enthusiast

14silverado4.3

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gif20160411_161947 (3).jpg

 

What do you think these marks mean? This is how I found it when it came out of shop when they told me all was okay. Well it's not, but was wondering what these marks are, and what were they trying to do>

What vibration do you have DA? Seat or Steering wheel?

DALaws Enthusiast

DALaws

Posted
Posted

What vibration do you have DA? Seat or Steering wheel?

I know for sure I feel it in the steering wheel. But, there is also times when I hear the rear seat belt rattling, so I can only assume the vibration is being transmitted from the rear to my steering wheel? Also interesting to note. .there was no documentation on any of my service tickets regarding balancing drive shaft? Supposedly replaced all tires and RFB's. Still vibrated. Took it back and RFB'd yet again. They claim they PICO'd it and was within GM Spec. on recently paved asphalt, but said readings will be higher on concrete roads ie, 98% of the roads that have not been recently paved. GM considers the case to be closed since they got vibration is Spec. on a super smooth asphalt road. Have a nice day Mr. customer, glad we could help, now go away.GM is just trying to wash their hands of this. It's unbelievable to me to me how GM is dealing (rather not dealing) with this obvious problem.

 

KLRV6 Enthusiast

KLRV6

Posted
Posted

KLRV6, I brought this up before but not a lot of responses. I have a lot of Steering wheel shimmy and just crap ride from the front. Have you heard of spring oscillation? Was wondering if the shocks just don't have enough dampening design that allows the front coil springs to start to resonate... Would be neat to see that video?

 

 

These trucks transmit vibration, was never as evident as feeling a rear vibration only to find the left front out of balance.

 

The electronic power steering software allows for a certain amount of out of balance but it has to make its way out somewhere.... if it isn't the steering wheel it will travel elsewhere.

I shot this today. Only up to 60 mph though. Will try to get one 70-80 this weekend.

 

 

Ron.s Enthusiast

Ron.s

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

I measured my u-bolts and the thread diameter is 9/16". A grade 5 u-bolt is 90ft/lbs. Mine weren't even at 30ft/lb breaking force which is 3 times less than it should have been.

 

Question....The bolt itself measures 1/2" so shouldn't max torque be 65#? If these are cold rolled 1/2" with 9/16 thread then the bolt will stretch at that theoretical max. Since we are testing an installed bolt and haven't applied never seize or other lubricant friction might allow a slightly higher torque number but IMO 70# might be the upper limit.

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted

I shot this today. Only up to 60 mph though. Will try to get one 70-80 this weekend.

 

 

Thanks for posting video "very cool". It may be an optical illusion but at around 6.38 when the tire just starts to turn it looks like the tire tread is not square with the wheel and is wobbling a bit. That is what my vibration feels like "a tire". Makes you wonder if these larger size and width tires that have become so popular on new vehicles might be partly to blame, it would seem to be a real chore for a tire manufacturer to make a tire perfect. Anyway wanted to report i installed the new Gabriel Ultra shocks to replace my rusty ranchos on the rear and drove a day and could tell no difference. Then I installed the leaf spring clamps 5" in front of the axle and can still tell no difference. My truck still has the slight shake at 70 with no apparent change after Torquing of the axle ubolts / new shocks / leaf spring clamps. Seems like I wasted my time and money but the new shiny shocks do look better LOL. Ranchos were both leaking at 57k miles and were very rusty Note that I live in middle TN not the northern rust belt.

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650h1 Enthusiast

650h1

Posted
Posted

Surprised no one has been able to figure this out yet. How do you make a truck with an "un-fixable" shake? There should only be so many things that it could be...

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11bDad Enthusiast

11bDad

Posted
Posted

The vibration I've been dealing with in the rear of my truck is minor compared to what a lot of you folks have been dealing with, but it's still an aggravation. Truck is vibration free until I reach 72 mph & then there is a slight vibration in the console and seat. It's speed related and did not change when I rotated the tires. Tried the clamps in front of the axle, and that did nothing for the vibration. Moved them 8" behind the axle & there was a very slight improvement. I did however notice that the vibration was less noticeable with a full load of fuel, and the vibration would increase as the fuel was burned. Picked up 2 bags of concrete and put them on either side of the bed by the tailgate. With a full load of fuel, and the concrete, the vibration was almost completely gone. Strange thing is that when I leave for work in the morning, and it's cooler, the vibration is almost unnoticeable, vs when I come home and temps are higher. Next step will be to have the rear tires balanced on the truck & if that doesn't help I'll probably replace the rear shocks with some Bilstein 4600. It's a 2WD, 4.3L, 3.23 rear end with the Z60 package & 20" Continentals. Other than the high speed vibration, the truck rides friggin great.

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted

Next step will be Road Force Balance when I get my next set of Michelns. Although I did see a Ford platinum the other day that looked really good..............

KLRV6 Enthusiast

KLRV6

Posted
Posted

Next step will be Road Force Balance when I get my next set of Michelns. Although I did see a Ford platinum the other day that looked really good..............

Yea they look good. I would be driving one today, but the 14K difference from where I'm at now with my payment is the absolute, only reason I still have the Silverado..

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Anyone seen the picture of new denali delivered? Has spacers/dampers between the rear-leafs...

 

Is this GM's fix for this solution???

 

Post #29 for picture.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/183339-2016-sierra-denali-2-month-review/page-2

I got em, mines a 14 High Country. Only rear suspension modification made is I installed helper springs but they fit over top the leaf pack so no need to take packing apart

 

d5a441a6599c040397fff64c70821896.jpg

 

cb69ba7ffaebbd2ac4a01eedcaefc289.jpg

 

16dee259ba31ab092c367b4b1af0d21f.jpg

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