Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

have any one with a truck that vibrate noticed that when in P or N the whole truck vibrate ?

 

my truck was vibrating between 72 mph and above also there's a clunk in rear right suspension ,

 

the u-bolts were loose a little bit i tq them to 80lbs which i think made it worse or did they gone loose again ?

 

can any one help me with this our dealer here is worst one in the whole world i guess .

Posted

have any one with a truck that vibrate noticed that when in P or N the whole truck vibrate ?

 

my truck was vibrating between 72 mph and above also there's a clunk in rear right suspension ,

 

the u-bolts were loose a little bit i tq them to 80lbs which i think made it worse or did they gone loose again ?

 

can any one help me with this our dealer here is worst one in the whole world i guess .

I'll take on your claim about worst dealer. Mine just ignored my complaints about vehicle shaking. The techs kept writing that the vehicle was operating to manufacturer's specs. Then the dealer replaced my wheels under the corrosion warranty. Lo and behold, shake almost completely gone! Just a quiver now and then and only on specific areas of freeways. SMH, I can't stand when the dealer doesn't believe me.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Haven't been around for a bit but I got a chance to ride in a V6 Silverado pretty much similar setup to mine and noticed the ride is better than mine by a lot. I'm suspecting the front coil springs being too stiff on the V8 is causing vibration throughout the entire vehicle and can be seen the worse in the center console.

 

I have a slight vibration around 70-80 but its highly dependent on the road (even some newly paved roads will do it). Once I get some time I'm going to try looking into the part number difference with the front coil springs.

Posted (edited)

I tried the spring clamps today. It actually made the vibration much worse. Mine has come and gone during the same short <10 mile trip. We have a freshly paved section of road near my house. I might feel the shake on the way to town but not on the way home, etc. It's wierd....

 

I may have had the clamps too far forward. When tight the overload leaf pad was touching the second leaf.

 

Question: Does anyone with high dollar aftermarket wheels have the same vibes? Is a new ring and pinion really the answer?

Edited by Bikemobile
Posted

I tried the spring clamps today. It actually made the vibration much worse. Mine has come and gone during the same short <10 mile trip. We have a freshly paved section of road near my house. I might feel the shake on the way to town but not on the way home, etc. It's wierd....

I may have had the clamps too far forward. When tight the overload leaf pad was touchingvthe second leaf.

Question: Does anyone with high dollar aftermarket wheels have the same vibes? Is a new ring and pinion really the answer?

Is this on a 17 Sierra you're having this issue

Posted (edited)

Yes 2017 Crewcab, 5.5 bed 4x4 5.3 8 speed. I have factory 20 in slt premium wheels and new duratrac 275/55-20's. I also have a Leer 100xl topper.

 

1600 miles

Edited by Bikemobile
Posted

Yes 2017 Crewcab, 5.5 bed 4x4 5.3 8 speed. I have factory 20 in slt premium wheels and new duratrac 275/55-20's. I also have a Leer 100xl topper.

1600 miles

Sucks seeing this is still a problem been wanting to trade up to a crew cab was wanting to on a 16 but seen several people having the issues doesn't seem much has changed on 17 either

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It's odd. Sometimes this truck is butter smooth. The transmission is perfect, seamless. No vibrations no noises.

 

Then sometimes it hard bumps into first while stopping, shakes, wind noise from the mirrors or the window, IDK.

 

Looks great though. Can't complain there.

Edited by Bikemobile
Posted

It's odd. Sometimes this truck is butter smooth. The transmission is perfect, seamless. No vibrations no noises.

Then sometimes it hard bumps into first while stopping, shakes, wind noise from the mirrors or the window, IDK.

Looks great though. Can't complain there.

Did it act the same way with the stock tires as well

Posted (edited)

Did it act the same way with the stock tires as well

It was worse with the stock tires. Plus they slipped sideways in light rain so I knew that a proper winter would be a nightmare with them.

Edited by Bikemobile
Posted

Update:

 

The shaking seems to have gone away for a little while. I have not felt it in a few days...... wierd

Posted

First post here. Been lurking for a week or B, you guys kick ass. 2k15 Silverado 1500 LT with Rough Country 6" Lift, Skid Plate and Fender Flares, NFab nerf bars, 35" Nittos on 20" Grid rims All done by a third party for the dealership. Bought it with ~16500 miles on it, has 19500 on it now.

 

First issue was about a month ago, came up to a mudpatch in the driveway, okay no biggie. Lock in 4lo and crawl, right? Nope. 4wd didn't engage until after I had to get yanked out, as evidenced by the front wheels not turning... okay... check off-road menu, 4wd is not engaged, wtf? Finally get out of hole, go forward now with 2wd, still, "POP", and whole truck lurches forward. Towed to dealership for front end crack and pop, damn CV shaft broke... unbelievable. Okay, repaired under warranty... give me back truck with crooked steering wheel. Ugh, alignment? 59$ because it is not part of GM's procedure....

 

Now, maybe a week ago, I finally taken some tools out, which I have carried since I bought it, maybe 250lb... and the truck drives like pure dogdoo, hoppy at 40-50mph... makes my water bottle look like the speaker is hitting it, and makes me nauseous. Tires all at 30psi... appointment Friday to drop it off. No way 45k truck should get me seasick at town speeds...

Posted

First post here. Been lurking for a week or B, you guys kick ass. 2k15 Silverado 1500 LT with Rough Country 6" Lift, Skid Plate and Fender Flares, NFab nerf bars, 35" Nittos on 20" Grid rims All done by a third party for the dealership. Bought it with ~16500 miles on it, has 19500 on it now.

 

First issue was about a month ago, came up to a mudpatch in the driveway, okay no biggie. Lock in 4lo and crawl, right? Nope. 4wd didn't engage until after I had to get yanked out, as evidenced by the front wheels not turning... okay... check off-road menu, 4wd is not engaged, wtf? Finally get out of hole, go forward now with 2wd, still, "POP", and whole truck lurches forward. Towed to dealership for front end crack and pop, damn CV shaft broke... unbelievable. Okay, repaired under warranty... give me back truck with crooked steering wheel. Ugh, alignment? 59$ because it is not part of GM's procedure....

 

Now, maybe a week ago, I finally taken some tools out, which I have carried since I bought it, maybe 250lb... and the truck drives like pure dogdoo, hoppy at 40-50mph... makes my water bottle look like the speaker is hitting it, and makes me nauseous. Tires all at 30psi... appointment Friday to drop it off. No way 45k truck should get me seasick at town speeds...

.

Obligatory Show-off Post

Did you mean to post in this topic? And not sure why you put it in 4low, that's only for high torque situations. And if 4low is ever needed you have to be in neutral in order to engage it or else it won't let it engage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 622 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...