how to hook up chains from trailer

[Sierra Boy]

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Quick-Marine-Grade/dp/B01KY6N5UQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496888654&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=9%2F16%2Bquick%2Blink%2Bconnector&th=1&psc=1

 

How about these?

 

Sierra Boy

[4x4Pete]

I have a 5x8 landscape type trailer 3500lb axle. The existing hooks didn't fit the 2500 receiver either. So I went to the local fastener place (Bolts Plus) and picked up a couple of 5/16 clevis hooks with the closer. I tried them out at the store to see which fit. Replaced the ones on the chains and no problem now. They are made in USA and are rated for 2T each. Don't use the cheapie China ones.

[LongrangeLauber]

 

 

I'd think the link needs to be able to support the trailer weight, not just the tongue weight.

Well if the trailer is still attached via the chains it means the tires are still on the road doing their job supporting the trailer on the ass end. Links need to be strong enough to hold the weight of the trailer tongue, however heavy it may be when loaded with the cargo

 

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[Dale L]

Well if the trailer is still attached via the chains it means the tires are still on the road doing their job supporting the trailer on the ass end. Links need to be strong enough to hold the weight of the trailer tongue, however heavy it may be when loaded with the cargo

 

 

 

I understand that but you're still attached to the total weight. I would be uncomfortable using a chain that may only be strong enough for 10% of the trailer weight. To each his own.

[LongrangeLauber]

 

I understand that but you're still attached to the total weight. I would be uncomfortable using a chain that may only be strong enough for 10% of the trailer weight. To each his own.

That's where the working load limit and max capacity come into play. Plus, most trailers have breakaway switches and hopefully you're not going much further up the road if it comes off the ball lol

 

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[Dale L]

A responsible driver will probably never need the safety chains.

 

I watched a guy in an F-250 towing a small U-haul lose the trailer. It starting whipping back and forth to hard one wheel was coming off the pavement, finally broke loose careening through the ditch before flying into the air and landing on a row of new Hondas parked in the dealer lot. Caught up to the F-250 at the next light and the guy finally notices he no longer has a trailer. I wish I could have seen his face when he found his trailer. )

[FLORIDAMK]

 

 

I'd think the link needs to be able to support the trailer weight, not just the tongue weight.

+1

[MotionMan]

That is a screw ball set up. I used 2 shackles rated at 5000lbs each. The other fix is larger hooks, with a bigger opening at the hook end. It is smart to cross them, gives a sling for the tounge to fall into and keeps it from Jack knifeing if it does pop off the ball. I saw a tool with a big tire on the tounge jack that would hit the road on bumps and bridge gaps. I would see a puff of smoke every once in a while, it was the not moving tire hitting the road, kind of like a landing plane. A big enough hit could pop it off the ball.

[Dale L]

I picked up a couple 7/16 shackles today as well. Someone didn't think it through when they designed that hitch set up. I did find a large gated hook that fit nicely but it was tighter against my pin lock so stayed with the shackles.

[revrnd]

Watch the weight limit on those quick connects - most of them from your local box store will NOT support the weight of a trailer should they need to be used.

 

I know E-Trailer has ones that will support higher weights.

I'm pretty sure the MTO (Ontario's DOT) doesn't approve of them. Check w/ your state's regs.

[revrnd]

That is a screw ball set up. I used 2 shackles rated at 5000lbs each. The other fix is larger hooks, with a bigger opening at the hook end. It is smart to cross them, gives a sling for the tounge to fall into and keeps it from Jack knifeing if it does pop off the ball. I saw a tool with a big tire on the tounge jack that would hit the road on bumps and bridge gaps. I would see a puff of smoke every once in a while, it was the not moving tire hitting the road, kind of like a landing plane. A big enough hit could pop it off the ball.

 

On the bold, nothing new as my father told us kids that back in the early 70s when he got his 1st trailer.

 

Not sure what the hooks look like on your trailers, but my Rockwood TT had bogus looking S hooks when I purchased it. Swapped them to a clevis type hook like Cowpie described. They are large enough to fit thru the hitch holes on my '11 & now my '17 (both 3/4 tons).

[revrnd]

The hook(s) that I'm using:

 

Hooked up to the truck:

[dave_clt]

I've had the same issues using the chain links connecting our car hauler so found this thread and started a search for alternatives. These are the quick connectors I found to use on my 2016 2500HD. The connectors are rated at 10K, our car hauler loaded is less than that. All of $8.17 ea, plus shipping.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Fulton/49135.html

These are 1/2 inch and they were a tight fit on one side, but a hard push / wiggling got it through. Painted them black (marginally successful, they chip easily despite being primered first) so they didn't stand out so much as the silver they came. Haven't towed with them yet, but expect the paint to chip off and will probably use black heat shrink on them once I do to see if that holds up any better.

 

 

[crankman]

Looks good Dave I have 4 trailers and I needed a fix that worked with all without changing the hooks. I tried the 1/2 but mine were to stubborn so I went with 9/16. Nice looking truck to Dave sharp Duramax there

[Cowpie]

I recently put on Crosby 1018133 shackles rated at 4.75 tons each. 3/4" pin.