Jump to content

2015 Silverado Dash Rattle

ChevyBrad1500
 Share

Recommended Posts

neokonig Enthusiast

neokonig

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Christian Guerra said:

I cant figure out your picture above.  I too and having the same issue.  As I am driving and hit around 60 MPH I can hear this plasticy buzzing sound.  I thought it sounds like it was coming from the 4wd selector switches and vent area.  It's so hard to tell. But based on what you said the sound travelled.  Maybe my issue is the same you are describing. However, I can't make out the picture you posted and where to find that component.

No worries it’s hard to capture the photo with little space. The photo is as if you were laying under the dash, under the steering wheel area, looking up into the dash from around where the pedals are. So if you kinda lay in that area looking up at the dash area (it’s a pain to fit in there) you should be able to find that hard drive looking thing.  It’s got a wiring harness coming out the back, Tap it with your finger a few times and see if it makes a noise.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ChevyBrad1500
ChevyBrad1500

Had a very annoying dash rattle near the hood latch. Removed the 2 Lower torx screws and pulled off the panel under the steering wheel. There are 4 bolts concealed behind this panel. 3 of these bolts

ic3man5
ic3man5

Yup two bolts were loose... requires a 7mm socket. Bottom left one was barely in  

fondupot
fondupot

Here is the pic from earlier in the thread, and I circled where my noise is coming from. If I push on that panel, while the buzzing is happening, the noise goes away.   And I have tightened those 7m

Posted Images

15 Z71 Senior Enthusiast

15 Z71

Posted
Posted

Mine was the 4 7mm screws under steering wheel and the plastic bracket that holds the hood release cable. I just put a zip tie around the cable and pulled it snug around another bracket close to it. Those 2 things fixed my rattles. Truck is nice and quiet now and it's been months since I did those things. 

  • 5 months later...
tmar480 Enthusiast

tmar480

Posted
Posted
On ‎12‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 8:33 AM, neokonig said:

Replying to this because I just recently solved a rattle that was driving me crazy. 

 

My rattling sound sounded like it was coming from the left part of the dash behind the headlight/4wd selector between that and the upper left tweeter cover, but this was just the way the sound bounced off things into my ear. It sounded like springing plastic (sorry weird comparison) but it actually came down to a module that looks like a hard drive behind that dash that is around the steering wheel column. 

 

You can can get to this without pulling off panels, but removing the under steering wheel panel helps; which is two screws and some pressure clips. 

 

When searching for the sound, I tapped on this module and it made a metal vibration sound, it didn’t sound like my rattle when sitting in the seat driving, but I believe it actually was, must have been the way it was muffled and traveled that changed the tone. This module has a wiring hardness coming out towards the front of the truck, it has a small heat sink on it.

 

I resolved the sound by placing a piece a piece of rubber between the module and a metal bracket, it stopped the metal module bracket from being sprung. 

 

I attached a picture of the module circled in yellow and the fix I applied. This photo is looking up the dash from the floor. 

 

Hope this helps someone if they are searching for an annoying rattle while driving. Just one of the many this truck has. 

3FAE01A0-9B27-4005-9F46-A9C863562869.jpeg

My truck has had the same noise coming from the same area as you. I made an appointment with the dealership and will try this to see if it fixed my problem before I go in on Tuesday. Glad to finally find a thread that has some fixes for this problem. Been driving me freaking crazy this past week. SMH

Christian Guerra New Member

Christian Guerra

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2016 at 7:38 PM, wulfgott said:

Thanks for the pic, I will see if this helps the issue I am having. Mine does not really sound like a rattle. More like a pressure/air leak or something. Who knows though it very well could be this and just sounds odd.

I found that my rattle came from behind my odometer panel.... Hex screw was loose.

Edited by Christian Guerra
tmar480 Enthusiast

tmar480

Posted
Posted
On 6/21/2019 at 4:38 PM, Christian Guerra said:

I found that my rattle came from behind my odometer panel.... Hex screw was loose.

I did some more digging over the weekend and I couldn’t find it. I don’t know how to take out the odometer so I just left it as is. I’m taking it in to the dealer to have them see if they can find it. 

tmar480 Enthusiast

tmar480

Posted
Posted

I have a video of the noise just to see if it’s the same noise as you all have been dealing with but it isn’t letting me upload it cause it’s too big. Smh 

doropallo Enthusiast

doropallo

Posted
Posted

I have a rattle that seems to be coming from the area around the speaker on the driver's side of the dash. My question is can I just pry the top of the dash up and off, over the cluster looks like a small leathered cover, 2016 GMC SLT.

doropallo Enthusiast

doropallo

Posted
Posted

Well I thought the rattle was up high in the dash and it wasn't, it was just like the op posted. Thanks for the post, so glad that noise is gone.

  • 2 years later...
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bumping an older thread... I too had a bit of rattle on drivers side of dash. It was intermittent but had seen other threads like this as well as running across a YouTube video while I was looking for something else. Mine was also the tiny bolts under that lower panel. All 4 were loose, one had backed halfway out and other 3 were loose. I tightened them all up so I should be good. Here is the YouTube video I saw that details it

 

https://youtu.be/SYwx4unMG2U

 

And I had almost forgotten, back a couple months ago when doing my dashcam install and hiding the wiring in headliner, I ended up needing to remove the roof console that has the Homelink and sunglass holder. I discovered that the 2 screws there were loose as well. After dashcam wiring was done, I tightened those screws up as well. Hopefully tightening the screws/bolts in these 2 spots eliminate the intermittent rattles. I'm pretty sure it will.

Edited by mikeyk101
  • 2 years later...
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)

Annnnd it happened to me again. Over the last week or so, I kept hearing a rattle somewhere on driver's side dash. Very annoying. The other day when it was happening, I pressed on that panel under steering wheel and all the rattling stopped. I knew exactly what it was.

 

I took that panel back off again by removing the 2 T15 (IIRC) screws and panel just pulls off. It's held on by several metal clips. Once panel was off, I immediately saw one screw had backed almost halfway out and another was just working itself out. I tightened all 4 using 7mm socket. This should take care of it.... Again. I will know tomorrow as I have a trip to take from SE Wisconsin down to far SW Georgia. 1000 miles there and another 1000 miles back with that rattle would have driven me nuts...

 

I'm still not sure why they work themselves loose. I don't really have the Chevy shake and the ride is pretty smooth otherwise. And I haven't really noticed any other loose dash screws other than these. Oh well, at least I know the fix...

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Well tightening those screws fixed the noise but noe my transmission failed while on backroad at Alabama Georgia border. Ugh....

  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...