Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Maybe.

IMO Yes.

The question is:

Do you want to replace it now or later.

Do you want to let the battery tell you when to replace it or do you want to replace it when it's convenient for you ?

Later being on a cold day, in the rain, at night.

 

When the truck doesn't start due to a dead battery and it doesn't bother you to deal with it then, then wait.

I replace batteries at 4 years of age and I'm on the cycle of doing this in the summer.

 

:)

 

Posted

About as long as I ever had on a original one. I always step up to a better Delco when I replace. Usually get at least 5 years out of them.  On my old 95 I could always tell when  it was getting weak by the way it cranked over. On this one it starts so easy it's hard to tell. I'm going to check with my buddy at the dealership and see what kind of deal he will give me on a new Delco. I might go ahead and change it. If not, this fall @ 5 years for sure.

Posted

Costco has the replacement battery for 115.00 and it comes with a 42 month replacement guarantee. They told me if you think it's weak at say 40 months, bring it in for a free replacement, no questions asked.

 

Posted

I ended up going with a Delco. Stepped up to the 94RPG (Professional Gold 800 Amp 42 month replacement). It listed for 199.41. I got it for 150.00 plus taxes (164.39 total). No Costco around here. O'reilly's wanted 222.00  plus tax for a 800 amp battery.  Autozone 222.00 plus tax for a 850 amp AGM. Both with 3 year warranty. I've had good luck with the Delcos. Glad I went ahead and swapped it out. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Like others said, the chain stores have instructions not to change out some batteries and this is one of them.  I changed out both of mine on a 2015  Duramax last month in about 45 minutes.  It is best to change both of them when 1 fails.  The other may not be far behind.  But GM Warranty will not change but the bad one, I prefer to do it right.  The module is just a box with about 5 big eye terminals to have to move out of the way along with 2 fender braces over the top of each battery.  

Posted

My battery bit the dust the other day also.  Went to back the truck out of the garage and it turned over a bit slowly so I started thinking replacement in the near future.  A bit later went to go somewhere and was completely dead.

 

Bought an Interstate from Costco with 42 month warranty and got it installed in about 30 minutes.  Hardest part was jockeying the old battery out once everything was out of the way.  Leave it to GM to make a simple job difficult.

Posted
On 8/9/2016 at 9:52 AM, White LTZ said:

A buddy of mine has the same truck as I do, 2014 Chevy crew LTZ. He is in need of a new battery. He's been to 4 different places (auto parts stores and repair shops) and they have all told him they won't replace the battery and he has to take it to the dealer. Has anyone else experienced this? They say it has to do with the cables and module on top of the battery.

typically after market / independent shops dont like touching batteries that have a fuse block on top of them. 

 

you can replace it yourself if you have some common sense. be careful if you use to much force on the fuse block it can break it and cause issues. 

 

im a tech for a gmc dealership. i dont even unhook the fuse block /cables. i take off the pos short cable, the neg cable , take out the support bar that runs asside the battery. pull the fuse cover off , release the tabs that holds it to the battery , move it out of the way, remove the battery hold down and the bolt holding the surge tank down and you have enough room to remove/replace battery. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My 2015 silverado has a bad battery. Personally thought is would last more than 4 years but after reading everyone else's post, looks like I got good life out of it. Replace it with an interstate AGM battery. Cant believe they cost north of $200 but hopefully this will last 5 plus years. Definitely more difficult than it should be but the basic DIy'er can tackle this task no problem. 

20190909_183050.jpg

Edited by Truston Gunter
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 8/12/2016 at 7:47 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

I think the issue is you have to remove that structural cross member that attaches to the fender in order to be able to lift the battery out and they don't want to touch anything except for the battery itself. You know because out of all of that engine bay space, GM had to shove the battery in a tight corner like that probably to drive business to dealers which seems to be the logic behind most of the things they do. Your friend, as long has he has a good socket wrench set, should be able to install the battery himself just fine.

 Well  think what you wanna think but putting a heavy a$$ battery more towards the center of gravity and back from being in front of the front wheels will be ok with me anyway. I hardly doubt this move was to drive people into the dealer either. I mean who can’t replace their car battery other than the elderly people that can’t pick up the battery. There is basic things someone should be able to do to acquire a drivers license like change a tire, properly jumpstart a vehicle etc and if said person can do this they really should be able to change a dang battery without all the crying on the dang internet. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There's some truth to the above, but also, she's selling fullsize trucks and bread/butter CUV's like hotcakes, meanwhile, extracting GM's pickups from the deep discounting sales game.   GM's stock has held its own during her tenure, and the more recent buybacks are delivering cash back to investors and signal confidence in their direction forward. Even with the EV losses.   GM is an example of a modern publicly traded company. The #1 goal of any publicly traded company is to deliver the most value possible to shareholders. Despite being a car company, building the best car isn't GM's path to delivering maximum shareholder value.   McDonalds doesn't make the best burger, or the best coffee.   I've mentioned in another thread, I really don't / won't ever understand Cadillac or Buick in a modern context. Both brands are completely dead to me. I'll cede that the Escalade is a nice SUV, but the brand and nameplate mean nothing to me, and GM will never persuade me to pay north of $170k for a gussied-up Tahoe or Burb. Other people don't mind doing that and that's their purview.   The C8 shares absolutely nothing in common with any other current Chevrolet or Corvette on the market. Since its introduction 8 years ago, it's developed quite the following. It did what other Corvettes couldn't do: reduce the average age of its buyer. GM has something there, and I see them investing in the car. They'd better not mess that up.   We've successfully derailed Grumpy's thread again, but I think this one is meant to be more of a random thought thread so a little wandering is probably OK.
    • Sliding doors ftw   Also, Sienna ftw as well.  The in-laws got a 2024-2025 recently when their 2019 sienna was totaled due to a deer back in June.  They've been getting 38-40mpg on the 65mph highway they live on.
    • Forgot to mention that this started after changing the oil I use mobile 1 full syn with mobile one filter but I did add pro lube additive and was the first time doing so and is making me wonder just can't see why that would matter
    • I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...