Plow setup

NoProblem · October 12, 2016

The GM dealer I use here in town told me the plow would not void the warranty. I had mine installed by the plow dealer and according to all the truck specs, the one I have is right to the limit of the truck specs - but when using the plow, it's like nothing.

When I raise it, the front end drops an inch and a half or so, but not bad. I've never driven more than about 10 miles with it up, but when I drive with it up, I lower it till it's a few inches off the ground and tilt it all the way to one side or the other. If I don't do that, the temperature gauge climbs up too high.

I don't know but I'd be surprise if the sunroof matters at all - except perhaps unless you get too heavy of a plow and drive all over the place with it raised.

Andy Seibel · October 12, 2016

the dealership put on a 8' snowdog and told him it wouldn't void and warranties.

I had a similar discussion when I bought mine. I knew I wanted to put a plow on and asked about the warranty. No plow prep package is available on a CC, so I wanted to know what they thought. Basically I told them that I was only doing my own driveway and not working commercial, so they agreed that it wouldn't void any of my warranty.

BUT since the plow is aftermarket, if I bring my truck in with worn out front suspension/ steering components, they will probly not cover that. It seems they have a loophole that they can decline warranty work if they think I caused the wear and tear by plowing. I can live with that, as long as all the electronics are covered!

Capecodlawns · October 21, 2016

Did you put some weight in the bed ? The fisher snow plow manual states you need to put a weight ballast in the bed to help even the weight of the plow.

NoProblem · October 22, 2016

You don't really need any ballast for weight distribution unless you plan to drive around with the plow raised all the time. Ballast can help with plowing if the snow is really deep or heavy, but most of the time it would just be extra weight in the back serving no purpose.

That being said, if you do add ballast, you would probably need to add somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 or 900lbs and you'd want it as far back as you can get it - like right up against the tail gate. At least that's what I needed for my truck when I scaled it out at a local weigh scale.

Cosmic Charlie · October 22, 2016

Obviously - Ballast will add to traction, and keeps front end sag to a minimum on older trucks 2010 and down (with Plow Prep)

Fisher Ematch: Plow Selection / Ballast Selection

http://ematch.fisherplows.com/disclaimers.asp

Ballast

When ballast is required it must be secured behind the rear wheels in a manner which prevents it from sliding during normal driving. Ballast shall not exceed 1200 lbs. Fisher Engineering offers an optional ballast retainer kit (62849) for this purpose.

sdeeter19555 · October 22, 2016

I had a similar discussion when I bought mine. I knew I wanted to put a plow on and asked about the warranty. No plow prep package is available on a CC, so I wanted to know what they thought. Basically I told them that I was only doing my own driveway and not working commercial, so they agreed that it wouldn't void any of my warranty.

BUT since the plow is aftermarket, if I bring my truck in with worn out front suspension/ steering components, they will probly not cover that. It seems they have a loophole that they can decline warranty work if they think I caused the wear and tear by plowing. I can live with that, as long as all the electronics are covered!

CC? Crew cab or classic cab? I have a 2012 crew cab and have a plow prep package...

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sdeeter19555 · October 22, 2016

Obviously - Ballast will add to traction, and keeps front end sag to a minimum on older trucks 2010 and down (with Plow Prep)

Fisher Ematch: Plow Selection / Ballast Selection

http://ematch.fisherplows.com/disclaimers.asp

Ballast When ballast is required it must be secured behind the rear wheels in a manner which prevents it from sliding during normal driving. Ballast shall not exceed 1200 lbs. Fisher Engineering offers an optional ballast retainer kit (62849) for this purpose.

Ballast will give traction to the rear, but all the weight of the plow is still a fixed point forward of the front tires? You're not transferring any weight from the front suspension?

Not being stupid, just doesn't compute to me?

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Cosmic Charlie · October 23, 2016

Ballast will give traction to the rear, but all the weight of the plow is still a fixed point forward of the front tires? You're not transferring any weight from the front suspension?

Not being stupid, just doesn't compute to me?

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The Fisher Engineers have worked it out ... (not me)

More weight BEHIND the rear axle will

1. Act as a weighted lever to balance to some degree the total truck & plow weight to be more evenly distributed on the 4 tires

Using the entire truck frame as the lever, as the weight behind the rear tires increases, the load on the front tires will decrease - (leverage, rear down

& front up) creating a more level weight load for improved traction & handling.

If a truck does not have sufficient front suspension to hold the plow up without sagging down, you have to add weight behind the

rear axle to get the front up. Common in past years when trucks without Plow Prep Option (stronger front suspension) were used to plow.

just saying

sdeeter19555 · October 23, 2016

Ok, I could see using the rear axle as a pivot, but the amount of weight needed behind the axle to lever up on the front axle would be, um, significant?

I think they are trying to justify selling an overweight plow to an under equipped buyer...

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Cosmic Charlie · October 23, 2016

1/2 ton trucks with a less than required (or should have) front suspension have been plowing for 50 years and for the most part doing ok ... (ballast or not). The front only sags excessive with the blade up.

Over selling ? Sure ! but also GM & Fisher push best case scenario - and it helps the trucks & plows to hold up well - overall

knowing how to plow can mean more than the plow set up, except in extreme conditions

On my former plow route for my town had a private guy plow with 2 WD regular cab long bed (rear posi, real lug snow tires, & maybe 500-700 lbs of sand in the bed) and he plowed streets for over 10 years issue free, mostly never got stuck, for sure he knew his truck & how to plow

sdeeter19555 · October 24, 2016

1/2 ton trucks with a less than required (or should have) front suspension have been plowing for 50 years and for the most part doing ok ... (ballast or not). The front only sags excessive with the blade up.

Over selling ? Sure ! but also GM & Fisher push best case scenario - and it helps the trucks & plows to hold up well - overall

knowing how to plow can mean more than the plow set up, except in extreme conditions

On my former plow route for my town had a private guy plow with 2 WD regular cab long bed (rear posi, real lug snow tires, & maybe 500-700 lbs of sand in the bed) and he plowed streets for over 10 years issue free, mostly never got stuck, for sure he knew his truck & how to plow

I don't disagree, plowed snow for many, many years before getting tired of it.

What I was getting at was that weight discussion is a sales gimmick, nothing more...it's to convince the consumer they can buy more plow than the truck can handle.

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sdeeter19555 · October 24, 2016

If anyone is interested, I also have a set of front Timbrens for 2012+ 2500/3500, they are meant for people who plow, not for the normal load handling. I'd sell them for a reasonable price.

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dewfpo · October 24, 2016

Ballast will give traction to the rear, but all the weight of the plow is still a fixed point forward of the front tires? You're not transferring any weight from the front suspension?

Not being stupid, just doesn't compute to me?

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If you measure the height of the blade above the pavement, then add 1,200 lbs to the rear of the cargo bed, the height of the blade above the pavement will be higher off the ground. That is because the rear axle will act as a pivot point and lever the front of the truck upward.

DEWFPO

sdeeter19555 · October 24, 2016

No, it's because you are pivoting off the FRONT axle...

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Your compressing the rear suspension...

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Andy Seibel · October 26, 2016

No, it's because you are pivoting off the FRONT axle...

Your compressing the rear suspension...

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Sdeeter, there are engineers that have proven this works. I'll try to explain it a little more for you. One huge variable is the length of your bed, aka the amount of distance you can get the ballast behind the axle. A long box gives you like an extra foot compared to a short box. That is why crew cab short box trucks have the worst layout for plowing, while a regular cab, long box would be best according to this ballast leverage. Read the following for more info--->

Here is the forum that explains it more, (if this link works)

http://www.plowsite.com/threads/how-ballast-works.85592/