Jump to content

4wd issue

Cjfrigo

Recommended Posts

Cjfrigo New Member

Cjfrigo

Posted
Posted

04 silverado auto z71

Was driving to my stand yesterday had to put it in 4wd push button everything worked fine.

Driving to a evening spot came to a mud hole that at the end starts up a steep side so i had to give it a little extra gas once through went back to 2wd service 4wd came on the dash . Tried pushing the buttons and nothing.

Now all the lights on the swtich work. When truck is off as soon as i turn the key and quicky push button i can hear it engage something underneath.

So far i pulled the switch and checked all the points in the switch for cracks, removed ground under drivers door and cleaned it, un hooked battery.

Light still came on

Now im left with the t case motor and the front diff swtich any insite to tell if there bad? Or which one.

5.3 4l60e

dorkweed Enthusiast

dorkweed

Posted
Posted

FIFY!!!!! :shakehead::rolleyes: I sure hope you're old and wealthy..............because if you're young and poor..................... :dupe:

04 silverado auto z71.

Was driving to my deer stand yesterday and had to put it in 4wd. i pushed the button and everything worked fine.

 

I was driving to an evening spot, and came to a mud hole that at the end starts up a steep side, so i had to give it a little extra gas once through it. I went back to 2wd, and the service 4wd light came on the dash. Tried pushing the buttons and nothing changed.

 

All the lights on the switch work. When truck is off as soon as i turn the key and quicky push button i can hear it engage something underneath.

 

So far I have pulled the switch and checked all the points in the switch for cracks, removed the ground under drivers door and cleaned it, and unhooked the battery.

 

The light still came on.

I'm now left with checking the T-case motor and the front diff switch. Any insight into how to tell if either is bad.

 

5.3L engine and 4l60e transmission.

Cjfrigo New Member

Cjfrigo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I tried a regular obd2 scanner and no codes show.

Lmao I realize this truck isnt what i thought it would be

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

Most likely the tcase motor. Only the special scan tool a mechanic has will read the tcase codes. You can jack up both ends and put it in 4x4 and see what spins.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

You can't read secondary system codes without a special (expensive) scan tool.

Knotsure Enthusiast

Knotsure

Posted
Posted

Could be the encoder motor / encoder ring from what you have described.

If I had to guess I would second this opinion. I had a similar problem a couple yrs ago with my 06 Sierra 4x4. There are forums that will walk you through a repair step by step and you can get the ring sensor part on amazon for around $45. I think I used the above link and it was pretty easy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GreasyHands Enthusiast

GreasyHands

Posted
Posted

Just FYI, I had error codes pop up "service 4 wheel drive" for years and after several attempts by the dealer and my own self diagnostics via pulling fuses etc, I finally took my truck to a well respected independent. He found the issue after allot of investigating.......the wiring harness going through the firewall was rubbing against the emergency brake support bracket under the dash and the wire going to the 4 wheel drive (brown I think) was "OCCASIONALLY" shorting against the brake bracket. Wrapped the wiring harness, diverted the harness as much as he could away from the brake bracket, no more problems. Just something to keep in mind.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 602 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...