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First time changing spark plugs need help


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Posted

So as title says im attempting to learn to do as much maintanace as i can on my truck myself and need to change the plugs and wires in my 2011 silverado 1500 5.3 flex fuel, problem is i have never done so before and the local parts store is trying to fleece me.

 

Ive watched some youtube videos so im sure i can do the actual change once i figure out what socket i need but i dont know what parts i need, the local parts place says the ONLY plugs that work are bosch +4s that are $36.99 EACH that i need 8 accel 9000 wires at $159.99 EACH (not a pack each so 159.99 x8) and any others will melt and 32 packets of goop at $5.99 each or they will short out, so over $1000 for plugs and wires......oh and cash only of course....

 

Yea......i didnt fall out of the idiot tree hit every branch on the way down and have the tree fall ontop of me so im here to ask what i really need, google and lots of sites say ac delco iridiums but i dont know what model (i.e t55 or t55IX) what gap or what the numbers at the end i.e 41-110 mean or if they matter.

 

Im also unsure which wires to get but the ones i have are cracking so i do need them.

 

Any help would be apprecated.

Posted

So as title says im attempting to learn to do as much maintanace as i can on my truck myself and need to change the plugs and wires in my 2011 silverado 1500 5.3 flex fuel, problem is i have never done so before and the local parts store is trying to fleece me.

 

Ive watched some youtube videos so im sure i can do the actual change once i figure out what socket i need but i dont know what parts i need, the local parts place says the ONLY plugs that work are bosch +4s that are $36.99 EACH that i need 8 accel 9000 wires at $159.99 EACH (not a pack each so 159.99 x8) and any others will melt and 32 packets of goop at $5.99 each or they will short out, so over $1000 for plugs and wires......oh and cash only of course....

 

Yea......i didnt fall out of the idiot tree hit every branch on the way down and have the tree fall ontop of me so im here to ask what i really need, google and lots of sites say ac delco iridiums but i dont know what model (i.e t55 or t55IX) what gap or what the numbers at the end i.e 41-110 mean or if they matter.

 

Im also unsure which wires to get but the ones i have are cracking so i do need them.

 

Any help would be apprecated.

 

 

Yah, they are trying to pull one over on you! For the plugs, I replaced mine with NGK, 44 bucks for all 8. For the plugs, I upgraded to MSD wires with koolsox because of my headers. The MSD plug wires were around 100 bucks for the entire set.

 

All in, I did the entire upgrade for under 200 bucks, including beer.

Posted

I order my parts through Summit Racing. If you enter year, make, model, and engine, itll give you all the parts that will work for your vehicle. I use Delcos in my 8.1, with MSD wires. One thing that is pretty pricey but you may consider down the road is changing your ignition coils too.

 

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Posted

Jegs has Taylor's in a range from 70-110 (Taylor's known for no stray emi)

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You lost me, if you assume i know just enough about my truck in general to put the correct fuel in and change the oil or a bad altenator you have the sum knowledge of what i know, im a total beginer and everthing i think i know comes from forums youtube and this weird book in my glovebox with a chevy logo that says "instruction manual" whatever that means :P

 

In short what is emi, and what are taylors in 70-110? Im assuming spark plugs but whats with the 70-110?

 

I order my parts through Summit Racing. If you enter year, make, model, and engine, itll give you all the parts that will work for your vehicle. I use Delcos in my 8.1, with MSD wires. One thing that is pretty pricey but you may consider down the road is changing your ignition coils too.

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Apparently multi quote doesnt like me today....anyway aside from the obvious of removing worn out parts what does an ignition coil replacement do and is it worth doing at only 85k miles? I know that the general idea is it takes the low voltage from the battery and boosts it to the spark from the plugs, But other then doing the job more efficently is there another benefit? Also i will look into summit racing later today i really do need to find plugs asap my trucks misfiring and rough starting and running due to my plugs being worn to the nub i assume (hope).

Posted

Check this thread for a discussion on spark plug wires.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/195457-Spark-Plug-Wires---difference-between-07-09-&-10-14??

 

The thread talks about electromagnetic interference being emitted by poor wire sets.

 

I also believe the parts guy misquoted you on price. He probably doesn't realize the aftermarket weird come in a set while the oem acdelco can be purchased individually.

 

 

 

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Posted

Check this thread for a discussion on spark plug wires.http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/195457-Spark-Plug-Wires---difference-between-07-09-&-10-14??

The thread talks about electromagnetic interference being emitted by poor wire sets.

I also believe the parts guy misquoted you on price. He probably doesn't realize the aftermarket weird come in a set while the oem acdelco can be purchased individually.

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Mkay will do, and nah that guy knew what he was doing, i asked him and he made sure to clarify it was $159 for each wire he even pulled them out to show me the price tags on each and rang em up for $1300, im suprised he didnt try to sell me muffler berrings and blinker fluid, since he was asking cash only im sure he was pocketing the diffrence.

Posted

Rockauto had the Denso plugs for 4.39 each, Delco plugs for 5.17 each. You want the Iridium plugs.....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1446777,ignition,spark+plug,7212

 

Plug wires are from about $25 for a SET to about $60 for a SET....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1446777,ignition,spark+plug+wire,7224

 

From the sets that they carry, I would choose Delco, Delphi, or Denso.

Posted

Rockauto had the Denso plugs for 4.39 each, Delco plugs for 5.17 each. You want the Iridium plugs.....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1446777,ignition,spark+plug,7212

 

Plug wires are from about $25 for a SET to about $60 for a SET....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,silverado+1500,5.3l+v8,1446777,ignition,spark+plug+wire,7224

 

From the sets that they carry, I would choose Delco, Delphi, or Denso.

Rock auto is where it is at! All the research i did before changing my plugs told me to stay with OEM Delco stuff.

 

As for the Beginner stuff.... what ever you do DO NOT force a plug in. you don't want to cross thread something.

Posted

Take your time, use antisieze on the plugs, consider dielectric grease on the wires before attaching to coils and plugs, and Rock Auto is your friend. Way cheaper then local auto parts stores. :happysad:

Posted

pretty much what everyone else said, Rock Auto is a great tool not only for getting a good price but they generally have accurate part numbers you can use to reference other places.

 

don't forget about amazon and ebay- especially if you have prime and get free shipping

 

I got 8 new iridium ACDELCO plugs for about $36 which is alot better price than most other places

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FSECZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

and I got 8 new OEM plug wires with heat shields for $40 off ebay -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171168819901?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

granted plugs and wires may vary on your truck but you get the idea.

 

I also got OEM ACDELCO brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums and Bilstein 5100's off amazon shipped free over the summer for way cheaper than i could get anywhere else including rockauto.

 

If you're willing to be patient and do your research you can save a lot of money.

 

Good luck!

Posted

At only 85k miles in a 2011, you shouldn't need spark plugs or wires yet, unless you got some defective factory parts. Your plug(s) may be oil-fouled due to oil blowing by the piston rings or being sucked into the intake through the PCV system (infamous AFM problem), so you may be able to replace one or two of those spark plugs and be fine. If it is running rough enough to throw a code, you can scan it and it will tell you what cylinder(s) the misfire is in. If you subscribe to OnStar, push the blue button and ask them to scan for codes.

Posted

Contrary to what a few folks on here may say, I do encourage you to go ahead and replace the plugs AND coolant! Yes yes yes there is all that bull shit out there about them being 100,000 mile plugs and Coolant and people have gone upwards of 150,000 on original plugs and blah blah blah, but in reality that's paying with fire. There are issues where plugs have seized in the heads because they were left in too long. It's a very common issue on the old 5.4L Fords but is not limited to the Fords. After talking to several trusted mechanics and shop owners and even my own dealer service advisor, it happens on GM products too. Under any number of driving conditions for which the vehicle has been in in its life. I say it is better to error on the side of caution and replace the plugs at around 70,000 miles. That way it gets you a chance to pull those plugs out, examine them and see how the engine is running. Remember that a check engine light is NOT going to report every issue out there with the engine. I have personally pulled spark plugs out of an OBD-II controlled vehicle where the spark plugs looked like crap or gap was way off and there was a HUGE noticeable difference when they were replaced. Guess what, no check engine light. So you are wise to go ahead and replace them, I strongly suggest you go with AC/Delco plugs like what the vehicle came with. Don't piss around with other brands. These engines were designed around the plug they came with from the factory.

 

Good luck!

Posted

Contrary to what a few folks on here may say, I do encourage you to go ahead and replace the plugs AND coolant! Yes yes yes there is all that bull shit out there about them being 100,000 mile plugs and Coolant and people have gone upwards of 150,000 on original plugs and blah blah blah, but in reality that's paying with fire. There are issues where plugs have seized in the heads because they were left in too long. It's a very common issue on the old 5.4L Fords but is not limited to the Fords. After talking to several trusted mechanics and shop owners and even my own dealer service advisor, it happens on GM products too. Under any number of driving conditions for which the vehicle has been in in its life. I say it is better to error on the side of caution and replace the plugs at around 70,000 miles. That way it gets you a chance to pull those plugs out, examine them and see how the engine is running. Remember that a check engine light is NOT going to report every issue out there with the engine. I have personally pulled spark plugs out of an OBD-II controlled vehicle where the spark plugs looked like crap or gap was way off and there was a HUGE noticeable difference when they were replaced. Guess what, no check engine light. So you are wise to go ahead and replace them, I strongly suggest you go with AC/Delco plugs like what the vehicle came with. Don't piss around with other brands. These engines were designed around the plug they came with from the factory.

 

Good luck!

In all fairness, the dealer or his service advisor & techs are the last ones I'd be talking to about vehicle maintenance, as they have a significant conflict of interest, especially in this day and age. Their only job is to get your vehicle into that service bay and to get you to leave your credit card & banking login info with them, as well as get their names in your will. They'll come up with all kinds of ridiculous stories to get customers to spend money. They aren't your friends.

I did plugs and wires on my 06 5.3l at 150k miles and could have left them in for another 50-100k easily. None were even close to seizing, nor were they in bad shape. I can't ever recall reading, or hearing about seized plugs on modern LS motors. These aren't Fords with popping plugs. Same thing with coolant. Did mine at 8 yrs & 160K & it was fine & so was the system.

This isn't bullshit, as you put it.

I do oil changes when the OLM goes off & not before, which is sometimes as much as 10k miles. Only use good full syn oil.

Trans oil gets done with a passive flush when it needs it. Have never bothered with the trans filter. Truck has almost 200k on it and still runs fine.

 

Honestly, it seems like a lot of scaremongering in your post. It seems more about your own fears, rather than how things really happen. Jus sayin'

.

To the OP - Personally, I buy my stuff thru Rock Auto most of the time, as it's way cheaper than dealer, or parts counter prices & I'm certainly not paying crazy dealer shop rates to do simple jobs.

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