Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, so, Hi!  I just (and by just, I mean, like, 2 weeks ago) was finally able to get a nice Silverado 1500 to replace an aging Avalanche.  Talk about painful to let that one go.  At least they're cousins, and wow, what an upgrade...  Anyway, I absolutely need the wider tow mirrors, and thanks to aaron_1121 I was able to get the ones that I really wanted instead of settling.  (Thanks Aaron!)  

 

PGAMBOA's detailed info is amazingly well presented, but I'll be honest, I've not had time enough to read through all 89 pages of comments to find all my answers.  All that's to say I'm sorry if the question below has already been answered. 

 

So one question is this: I'm upgrading from the DL8 to the aftermarket DQS (from AM) tow mirrors.  Can I use your DIY kit and get all or most of the functionality?  My new truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT.  Or will I need to use a more custom path to get everything working?

 

Thanks, regardless, for all of your effort to put this info together.  

  • Like 1
Posted
Ok, so, Hi!  I just (and by just, I mean, like, 2 weeks ago) was finally able to get a nice Silverado 1500 to replace an aging Avalanche.  Talk about painful to let that one go.  At least they're cousins, and wow, what an upgrade...  Anyway, I absolutely need the wider tow mirrors, and thanks to aaron_1121 I was able to get the ones that I really wanted instead of settling.  (Thanks Aaron!)  
 
PGAMBOA's detailed info is amazingly well presented, but I'll be honest, I've not had time enough to read through all 89 pages of comments to find all my answers.  All that's to say I'm sorry if the question below has already been answered. 
 
So one question is this: I'm upgrading from the DL8 to the aftermarket DQS (from AM) tow mirrors.  Can I use your DIY kit and get all or most of the functionality?  My new truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT.  Or will I need to use a more custom path to get everything working?
 
Thanks, regardless, for all of your effort to put this info together.  

In short - YES! :)

PM me. I can get a DIY Kit put together for ya. Welcome and congrats!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Hey guys, I have a 2014 Silverado LT with the DL8 mirrors. I've been trying to figure out how to upgrade them to the DPN tow mirrors. I am looking at an eBay set and am unsure if they will work. I understand pgamboa makes a complete harness as well as a DIY kit. What will work without the harness and what will work with it? Thanks for taking the time to help. 

 

eBay link: 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-15-16-2017-Chevy-Silverado-Serra-Power-Heated-Smoke-LED-Cargo-Tow-Mirrors/132000762223?fits=Year%3A2014|Make%3AChevrolet&hash=item1ebbdbc96f:g:xM8AAOSwjM5aCl9O

  • Like 1
Posted
Hey guys, I have a 2014 Silverado LT with the DL8 mirrors. I've been trying to figure out how to upgrade them to the DPN tow mirrors. I am looking at an eBay set and am unsure if they will work. I understand pgamboa makes a complete harness as well as a DIY kit. What will work without the harness and what will work with it? Thanks for taking the time to help. 
 
eBay link: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-15-16-2017-Chevy-Silverado-Serra-Power-Heated-Smoke-LED-Cargo-Tow-Mirrors/132000762223?fits=Year%3A2014|Make%3AChevrolet&hash=item1ebbdbc96f:g:xM8AAOSwjM5aCl9O

A few things. There have been a number of these mirrors from eBay/Amazon in the $200 range that are problematic. It is very common to tie the turn signal circuit with the running Lamp circuit. I am not sure on the logic here but this caused problems. GM has these circuits as separate circuits so when you purchase my PnP Harness or DIY Kit, and wire them up like factory, these mirrors will back feed running Lamp voltage to your turn signals. The end result is that your turn signals quit working right and they all stay lit.

2nd. Since you are 2014, there will be additional work ahead of you because GM didn’t land the cargo light and running light circuits to the door jamb connector in the cabin side. What this means.... is that you will need to get he RZY Jumper Harness - Part # 23387133 and Install it as well.

So... I would stay away from these $200 mirrors. Then check out my video on how to install the RZY Jumper and see if this is something you’re up to doing.... then decide on your mirror purchase.

Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
I've heard that 1A auto mirrors are good. Would the more basic style they make be plug n play? I only really need the power adjustments. 
https://www.1aauto.com/mirror-pair-trail-ridge-tr00012/i/trmrp00012?f=1093517&y=2014

If you don’t want to gain any lighting features, these will work just fine and will be Plug and Play with your current harnesses. Just swap mirrors. :). Most that do that want to gain the lighting features and some want Power Fold.

You’re good to go with these.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


If you don’t want to gain any lighting features, these will work just fine and will be Plug and Play with your current harnesses. Just swap mirrors. :). Most that do that want to gain the lighting features and some want Power Fold.

You’re good to go with these.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Thanks for the help!

  • Like 1
Posted

First time posting here!!! I have been reading this thread for a week. I just got my 2015 sierra 1500 slt 5.3L with memory, power fold, and reverse tilt. I currently have the DL3 mirrors and am wanting to switch to DQS. I just want to check and make sure i have all the right part numbers before i drop a grand on some mirrors :puke:

 

driver side harness:

updated to 84125571

 

driver DQS mirror:

84041609

 

passenger side harness:

updated to 84125561

 

passenger DQS mirror:

updated to 84228892

 

Ya'll have been great help in getting me this far!

 

Posted
First time posting here!!! I have been reading this thread for a week. I just got my 2015 sierra 1500 slt 5.3L with memory, power fold, and reverse tilt. I currently have the DL3 mirrors and am wanting to switch to DQS. I just want to check and make sure i have all the right part numbers before i drop a grand on some mirrors :puke:
 
driver side harness:
updated to 84125571
 
driver DQS mirror:
84041609
 
passenger side harness:
updated to 84125561
 
passenger DQS mirror:
updated to 84228892
 
Ya'll have been great help in getting me this far!
 

Yep. Driver mirror 84041609 update to 84228891


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone. Im new to this site and 1st time posting ..  hello pgamboa.. i have a 2014 silverado 1500 crew cab with standard DL8 mirrors power adjustment, non folding, no blinkers, i think heated. I would like to purchase from you whatever wiring harnesses that i will need and recommeded tow mirrors for my truck.. im mainly looking to get power folding and blinker and have factory power folding switch.  

Edited by Sniper94509
  • Like 1
Posted
Hello everyone. Im new to this site and 1st time posting ..  hello pgamboa.. i have a 2014 silverado 1500 crew cab with standard DL8 mirrors power adjustment, non folding, no blinkers, i think heated. I would like to purchase from you whatever wiring harnesses that i will need and recommeded tow mirrors for my truck.. im mainly looking to get power folding and blinker and have factory power folding switch.  

Please send me a PM and can get you setup with ordering instructions. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT (early 2015) with RPO codes AY0, A45 and DL3. From what I found I need the following parts:

 

Driver Door Harness
84125571

Passenger Door Harness
84125561

RZY Harness
23387133

Driver Mirror
84228891

Passenger Mirror
84228892

 

Since I'm upgrading from DL3 to DQS I do not require the custom harness and these are the only parts that are needed, correct?

Posted
52 minutes ago, drirun said:

I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT (early 2015) with RPO codes AY0, A45 and DL3. From what I found I need the following parts:

 

Driver Door Harness
84125571

Passenger Door Harness
84125561

RZY Harness
23387133

Driver Mirror
84228891

Passenger Mirror
84228892

 

Since I'm upgrading from DL3 to DQS I do not require the custom harness and these are the only parts that are needed, correct?

Correct.  My "custom" harnesses are factory harnesses that are build just like the ones you specified.  Many buy from me instead of other places because of the guarantee and support I provide. :)

Posted

I strongly recommend to everyone that when ordering your mirrors you order them for a 2500HD. They have the same part number. No one will honor the warranty if you order them for a 1500!

 

Wanted to share my warranty experience with AM Auto. Simply put, don't buy from them ever! Not worth the $150 savings over 1A Auto to deal with their bullshit. The power fold out broke on my drivers mirror only a month after being installed. AM Auto claimed the mirrors weren't made for my truck so they weren't going to honor the 10 year warranty.  They also refused to acknowledge the upgrade kit that's included in the box (I used Phil's wiring harness).  After a 6 day email battle, they refuse to offer a phone number for their customer service department, they agreed to allow me to return my mirrors with no restocking fee but I have to pay shipping to send them back. I had to threaten them with contacting the Better Business Bureau. 

 

I called 1A Auto. They also said if my truck didn't come from the factory with power folding tow mirror they wouldn't honor the warranty either.  

 

Against my own advice, I ordered another set from AM Auto. I used a friends PayPal and had them shipped to his house so they wouldn't be linked to me if I have to make another warranty claim. More importantly, I ordered a set listed for a 2500 but had the same part number. Hopefully they'll honor the warranty if I tell them I have a 2500 LTZ. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...