Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

1400 is insane from the pricing perspective as a condenser can be bought for less than 250 bucks and it's only 6 hours of shop time which on the high-end would be $600 which should put the price of the condenser Plus freon at almost 800

Posted

Add me to the list. Dealer said they were told it's a 2 month wait. Thanks GM love driving my truck in the Louisiana summer with no AC. Guess ther definition of "professional grade" and mine are way different. Can't exactly drive clients around town with 90 degree heat in the cab.

Posted

Bought a pre-owned 2014 GMC Sierra SLE. Two weeks later, the condenser went. Getting it replaced under extended warranty and have a loaner until the part comes in. Been 2 weeks and 2 days and no ETA yet. July 19th will make one month.

 

Anyone have any updates? GM said the parts are being made and they have shipped the new part to some dealerships so at least we know they are working on getting the parts out.

  • Like 1
Posted

Took my 2015 6.2/8spd 4x4 crewcab to sealer Friday because ac had stopped blowing cold air. Got a call this morning from my service rep stating that the condenser had a leak. So, asked about time to repair and was informed that she couldn't say as the condenser was on "national back order" and thought it might be a few days till she could get one in. She also asked if I was ok with driving the loaner in the meantime which I said was ok as its a 2017 CC Silverado. I stated to her that if this part is on national back order, it suggests to me that there's a manufacturing flaw with the condenser. She answered, that it's looking that way. Anyway, fortunately, my truck is still in warranty but to those who had repairs done on their own dime on out of warranty vehicles, I suggest that you save receipts and service invoices and such as there may be a recall or service bulletin coming and maybe compensation.

Posted

Hey all, if you haven't seen on the other condenser threads, here's a little info:

 

I've been waiting 8 weeks, I was told 6months

 

I'm in Oregon, I was told even though I paid up front for my part, the "hotter" states get the condensers first (guess 95 and humid doesn't count)

 

I would encourage you all to contact GM relentlessly, call your attorney general and the DOJ (I believe consumers have the right to shop around for service but no mom and pop shops, or big shops can get these condensers either, gm has them all)

 

I was told they have 3 manufacturers making the parts, so why can't they catch up on the back order? Because they are sticking the new condenser design in the new 17/18 models. I made that statement to gm and they didn't deny it. In fact, the lady (tier 3 complaint level...Working my way up the ranks) told me "we can't take condensers out of new trucks!" Uh, yeah.

 

I've also contacted a private atty and am waiting to hear back.

 

As much as I hate sitting in rush hour gridlock for everyday, sweating like a pig, no air movement, I will not let this one go. GM needs to make this right with all owners. We bought the AC option for a reason. I like to call GM while I'm suffering in traffic, pretty sure they know my number by heart.

Posted

add me to this sh!t list.

 

A/C has been struggling getting worse here in houston over the last few days. Called my dealership. They wanted $126-something to diagnose, said it would go towards repairs tho. I asked if its worse case scenario and is the condenser, how long and how much? they said $1200 and a month or two wait. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK THAT NOISE.

 

of course yesterday it is really struggling, so i went and looked all over for a leak. pretty sure it is my condenser, because it has an oily, wet stain on the driver-side near the top braze spot.

 

I was able to find a $199 Tough-One brand replacement condenser at an Advance Auto around here. But i will say these things are slim pickins around here. i had to try 3 places before i lucked into that one.

 

question i have is: after condenser replacement... if i pull a vacuum on this thing, how much PAG 46 oil will i need to add back into the system before i refill with r134a? the Advance Auto computer says 7.1 oz needed total, but i have read people saying you add only 2 if you replace the condenser? whats the right number? if you pull a vacuum, won't all of the oil be removed as well?

 

SCHOOL ME PLEASE.

Posted

I bought a 2017 sierra put 2000km on it then hit a deer. Fml I know.

It has been in the body shop for a month now and they have not started fixing it because the condenser is still on backorder with no ETA. Any thoughts if I should try and find an aftermarket one? I have a rental for the time being but insurance only covers that for so long. Cant be without a truck months on end waiting for this condenser. Any thoughts on getting one fast so they start fixing my truck?

Thanks

  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

2 oz is about right. 46 or 100 is fine. Make sure it'll hold a vacuum. 22 oz f R134a

Edited by spurshot
Posted

On a slow leak generally you drain the component and that much back in. If little or no oil comes out put 2oz in. No the vac will not pull the oil out.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just called about my case with chevy, the lady said that the part was on national backorder. I went into a whole lecture with the lady about why the demand was so high and that the original product was inferior on a $40,000 vehicle. I asked if her husband pulled up to take her out on a date in a truck with no ac would she be excited. She said one of her clients was still waiting for the part from march. I informed her that if I was still waiting from march, I would drive my truck back to the dealer, throw them my keys and demand my money back. I said if I am stuck with the $1400 repair this will be the last chevy I ever purchase.

  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 421 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...