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Rear Sliding Window

WesternMike
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Static
Static

I personally think the sliding rear window is ugly. I wish GM did what Toyota did and had the entire glass slide down. That would be something to have IMHO.

WesternMike
WesternMike

From looking at the other thread I got the other parts needed. I also changed them so they're easier to find.   Console Trim - 23104422 - $29.06 *W/ Homelink Switch - 22774498 - $38.56 Connector

Anthonyvee90
Anthonyvee90

I ended up doing the titan window since the sliding one was small in my opinion

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bluztracker Enthusiast

bluztracker

Posted
Posted

I just had the back seats and carpet out to install dynamat. I have the power slider it looks complicated back there. I would plan on 3 hours just to tear everything apart and put it back together unless you are used to working with interior trim. Plus whatever time it takes to do the window. You might as well do some sound proofing while you got it all ripped out.

 

I love my slider. The borla exhaust sounds better with the back window open.

 

Pic is what it looks like under padding of rear wall. Looks like some sort of power supply in the middle and wires that go up to the window are on passenger side. 773933ddbfcf0f19a1062790c972ea7a.jpg

 

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I like the idea of sound proofing. Do you have a thread and more info to help me out?

bluztracker Enthusiast

bluztracker

Posted
Posted

Also I like Toyota's back window . I like my but it would be nice if the whole window went door. But living in Florida the A/C is on 95 % of the time.

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

I like the idea of sound proofing. Do you have a thread and more info to help me out?

Some good info on page 3 of this thread. Probably a few other threads out there. It's multilayer process with lots of acronyms to confuse you. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/199845-GM-Borla-Arrives-Today---Cold-Feet

 

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WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

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Ok so if you don't have an LTZ or SLT you will need a whole new body harness; which will run about $1000 CAD.

 

It could be expensive but this would then allow a lot of other options to be wired in, like power passenger seating and heated seating.

 

I was considering doing the entire body hardness swap but I don't think I would have the time and also would then end up adding even more lol

 

But since I can grab the whole rear assembly for very very cheap I may just buy the overhead console plastic and switch for it.

 

I was told I can simply run 12v to it and it should work as it doesn't run to bcm(no programming required).

 

So could I do this with the factory switch?

 

I have plans to put in black cloth on days off so I will be tearing seats out anyways, I now may sound proof entire body and do this mod while I'm at it. Long as I can confirm running a simply 12v to switch then to motor on the window will work. So if someone could help me here, I'll make a nice write up.

 

 

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WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

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Ok so I'm getting the complete rear assembly for just $50 CAD now.

 

I was quoted just $150 CAD to take my one piece out then install this one from an auto glass place.

 

Then when I'm putting black cloth seats on, I'll run the 12v supply. Which I'm still hoping someone could confirm.

 

 

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Krusty Enthusiast

Krusty

Posted
Posted (edited)

I do like it - not much road noise from it when open - good air flow by just cracking another window with it open.... One of those options you don't realize how much you will use it until you have it........ Like a back-up camera - talk about taking hooking up a trailer to a whole other level!

Edited by Krusty
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ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

Ok so I'm getting the complete rear assembly for just $50 CAD now.

 

I was quoted just $150 CAD to take my one piece out then install this one from an auto glass place.

 

Then when I'm putting black cloth seats on, I'll run the 12v supply. Which I'm still hoping someone could confirm.

 

 

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While I can't confirm the 12v, I will say the truck doesn't seem to know the window is there which may indicate it is a simple 12v source to it. For example when you hold down the unlock button for 5 sec and all the windows go down, the rear slider stays closed. My old Honda truck would beep at you if you left the slider open, the silverado does not. My guess is it's 12v power but can't confirm. Mine has the slider on a z71 which was an option, came with adjustable foot pedals (another great option)

 

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ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

When you take out the rear seats there are two small 10mm screws that hold the two seats together, they are easy to miss.

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Hey guys - just a quick note... if you use @pgamboa , this will send me a notification.

 

I haven't really delved into this but based on reading @dbeto54 's thread, and seeing it can be done with power, open/close relays, and also looking at the schematic, I don't see any connections going through the BCM. My initial thought is that this can be done.

 

Here is a snap shot of the schematic. Looks like some circuits go between the X51L and X51R fuse block and through the X61A Junction Block. When I don't see circuits go through the BCM, that's usually a good sign.

 

5c8bd08dd5ec3591d91a9ae81c05311b.png

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted (edited)

Unfortunately for this, there is no harness that I could produce for this to make this all work. This would be similar to the auto dim rear view mirror upgrade where you would have to source the terminals for each connector, land everything, and hope it just works.

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
  • Author
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So what I see is I can simply run 12v to the switch, then run two wires back to window; one going to up and one going to down?

 

Would this make it work correctly?

 

I'll have the window in two days so I could post photos of connector on it. I'm hoping if I can do this, it will function off of overhead switch(instead of an aftermarket one).

Edited by WesternSilverado
  • Like 1
Silver ice 6.2 Senior Enthusiast

Silver ice 6.2

Posted
Posted

I've mentioned this in the past.. but when ordering my truck I didn't want the power slider.. but being a ltz I had to have it... first thing I did was find some window place and ask for a straight swap and install for free.. alot of places turned me down.. then I found a place really close to me said yes come in asap.. long story short.. I have a solid back windo2 like I wanted and it didn't cost me a dime.

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

So what I see is I can simply run 12v to the switch, then run two wires back to window; one going to up and one going to down?

 

Would this make it work correctly?

 

I'll have the window in two days so I could post photos of connector on it. I'm hoping if I can do this, it will function off of overhead switch(instead of an aftermarket one).

If it were me, I'd be exploring the X51L/X51R Fuse Panels and seeing what's there. I'd be looking up terminal part #s and ordering those. There is also a Junction in the X61A Junction Box. So I would want to retrofit exactly like the drawing shows and hope it works.

 

 

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Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I've mentioned this in the past.. but when ordering my truck I didn't want the power slider.. but being a ltz I had to have it... first thing I did was find some window place and ask for a straight swap and install for free.. alot of places turned me down.. then I found a place really close to me said yes come in asap.. long story short.. I have a solid back windo2 like I wanted and it didn't cost me a dime.

I like a sliding rear window but it is very low on my priority list when looking for a truck! It does help get the hot air out quickly when starting out on a summer day! The window place that traded you probably knows how to wire these as an aftermarket item.

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