Jump to content

looking to buy 14 (6.2/6sp) or 15 (6.2/8sp)


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have researched and researched until my head hurts trying to figure out the 8 speed trans with the new 15+ 6.2's. I know some people have had issues with TC/shudder/etc. Is it a very common problem or just a select few vehicles. Im looking at buying a used 14 or 15 between 20-40k miles. Should I stay away from the 2015's?

 

Also the truck will be used primarily for towing a race car (total with trailer 5k lbs) and a truck to drive to town and back. Not really DD duty. but my trips with the car can range from 150 miles to 800 miles to different tracks.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

If I could do it all over I would get the '14 6.2 as it came with the six speed. Only because it's a tick quicker then the '15 and the 8 speed is just plain bipolar. That said, my 2015 6.2 tows like a beast! So for just daily driver duty the six speed is best and towing the eight speed rocks.

I'm getting ready to to a trailer about 2000 miles round trip so I'll have a better opinion on young after that.

 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

Posted

Definitely 6 speed! They've been out longer and most bugs are worked out with them. The 8 speed I'm sure will be fine with some time, but that's time I don't have

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Ill be honest, i don't mind my 8 speed. I have only felt it a handful of times where it will shake or something but I love the fuel mileage on the 8 and if i want the power through the gears i keep tow mode on.

 

mine is 15' 6.2 8 speed.

Posted

I think you will be happy with either one. The 8 speed is supposed to be built stronger ( higher hp capacity) so it should hold up better long term if you get a good one.

Both of them have had shifting issues.

I have an 8 speed in my 17 and brother has a 6 speed in his 14 both with 6.2 motor, I would say they pull our enclosed trailer very similar to one another.

Good luck

Posted

I have researched and researched until my head hurts trying to figure out the 8 speed trans with the new 15+ 6.2's. I know some people have had issues with TC/shudder/etc. Is it a very common problem or just a select few vehicles. Im looking at buying a used 14 or 15 between 20-40k miles. Should I stay away from the 2015's?

 

Also the truck will be used primarily for towing a race car (total with trailer 5k lbs) and a truck to drive to town and back. Not really DD duty. but my trips with the car can range from 150 miles to 800 miles to different tracks.

So to make your head hurt more, are you looking at a max tow package or just a normal truck? 6 speed will give you options of 3.42 or 3.73, 8 speed will give you 3.23 or 3.42 rear ends depending on tow package (normal, max tow).

Posted

I'm looking at 14-15 Denalis. I don't believe they have max tow (don't those have the bigger mirrors)

They do, along with a few more heavy duty towing options. Good call on the Denali, good looking trucks.

Posted

I'd go 8 speed. Stronger unit over the 6L80, and makes better use of the powerband.

 

They do, along with a few more heavy duty towing options. Good call on the Denali, good looking trucks.

 

Denali does not have Max Trailer NHT.

Posted

I've had a 6.2 6spd, the 8spd blows it away towing.

 

If that isn't an over exaggeration I don't know what is. 4.03 and 3.42 vs 4.56 and 3.23 with a slightly tighter spread does not equal "blows it away". It will "blow away" a NA V6 or other smaller less powered trucks but the same motor with a slight gear change is not that big of a difference. Helps yes but big difference, not at all...

 

Tyler

Posted

I have researched and researched until my head hurts trying to figure out the 8 speed trans with the new 15+ 6.2's. I know some people have had issues with TC/shudder/etc. Is it a very common problem or just a select few vehicles. Im looking at buying a used 14 or 15 between 20-40k miles. Should I stay away from the 2015's?

 

Also the truck will be used primarily for towing a race car (total with trailer 5k lbs) and a truck to drive to town and back. Not really DD duty. but my trips with the car can range from 150 miles to 800 miles to different tracks.

It's a select few vehicles for the shutter. Even then, some people are blowing it way out of proportion. There are for sure some people with legit issues but then there are the typical forum lemmings that have convinced themselves they have the same issue, when they probably don't.

Posted

It's a select few vehicles for the shutter. Even then, some people are blowing it way out of proportion. There are for sure some people with legit issues but then there are the typical forum lemmings that have convinced themselves they have the same issue, when they probably don't.

I agree on the forum lemmings [emoji23][emoji23]

 

Personally I have corrected at least 30 vehicles with the shudder problem in just my dealership. I work on the transmissions. These 30 vehicles would include the Escalade, Silverado, Camaro and Corvette.

 

This being a isolated problem to a limited few? I don't think so. I'm curious to see how it'll be when some get some real miles on them. Why do you think GM worked on lowering that power train warranty? It saves them money. GM introduced software into the ECM's of many vehicles beginning in 2013 called "Torque Management" . That's why our throttle response sucks as well. It's made to open the throttle slowly so the drivetrain doesn't take harsh abuse from constant wide open throttle or moderate throttle. They are so confident in this that the software was the beginnings of warranty adjustments.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

If that isn't an over exaggeration I don't know what is. 4.03 and 3.42 vs 4.56 and 3.23 with a slightly tighter spread does not equal "blows it away". It will "blow away" a NA V6 or other smaller less powered trucks but the same motor with a slight gear change is not that big of a difference. Helps yes but big difference, not at all...

 

It's not an exaggeration at all under certain circumstances. The 6-Speed has a huge gap between 2nd and 3rd gear. If you're towing something heavy enough up a hill steep enough that you can't pull 3rd gear it will hunt back and forth between 3rd and 2nd. It goes from bogging to screaming because of the distance between the gears. In addition, the shift programming in tow-haul mode sucks so the truck will not maintain highway speed while this is happening.

 

A tune can fix that last part--mine will grab 2nd much more quickly and hold it all the way to redline so I can maintain speed, but it's still far from ideal. The engine is screaming unnecessarily and fluids heat up more quickly in 2nd so it's best to avoid it at highway speeds. With a few engine mods and 4.10 gears you should be able to pull 3rd with any remotely legal load up pretty much any hill but as far as I know they don't yet make 4.10's for the 9.76" forcing you do downgrade to the smaller gears if you want the ratio.

 

The 8-Speed has a gear effectively right between those two gears so it's not an issue--it can always find the right gear. No need for 4.10's.

 

Of course this is a much bigger issue/more common with the 5.3 but it can still happen with the 6.2 if you tow heavy through the mountains. In the OP's case, if he stays with a 5000 lb trailer it shouldn't be an issue as the 6.2 can pull 3rd with that much weight up pretty much anything.

 

The one plus the 6-speed has is tests seem to show it has more aggressive programming for the grade braking than the 8-speed. The 6-speed can hold some big loads down some steep hills without needing the brakes, the 8-speed doesn't seem to do as well in the tests I've seen so you may need to use manual mode more often going downhill. I don't think a tune can change the grade braking. Even so, I'd still choose the 8-speed for its advantages going up the hills.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,260 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...