Jump to content

2014 Silverado Electrical Issues


cnet24

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking for some feedback on a recent issue I had this Saturday with my 2014 Silverado. I went to turn on the truck and had no signs of response- no clicking, etc. Tried to jump/charge the battery with no response.

 

After a tow to the dealership, they were able to isolate an electrical issue and stated the following in my bill:

 

"Performed a voltage drop on the positive battery cables and found high resistance present in the battery distribution junction block causing the low voltage to the underhood fuse block. Necessary to replace the battery distribution fuse block."

 

A $300 repair later and my truck was up and running again. I pressed the advisor on what this statement meant and didn't really receive a good answer. He told me it's like a lightbulb in your house, sometimes it just goes out. I also found it strange that I could not find this part online, which leads me to scratch my head even more.

 

Anyone else had a similar situation like this? I've done limited research on electrical problems for the 14 & 15 Chevys and it looks to be a common problem- any idea if GM is going to address this?

 

Thanks!

Posted

You might have paid 300 for a new battery cable! It is a known problem.

Posted

You might have paid 300 for a new battery cable! It is a known problem.

 

He's probably right. Look up PIT5405B. It covers know electrical problems like a loose BCM ground, high resistance in the positive battery cables, and a few other things. I don't have the link handy but there are copies of it on these forums somewhere.

Posted

Interesting, thanks for posting.

 

I did a google and found the attached info. Does this mean GM is responsible for the repair, if under the bumper to bumper? I am at 70k so out of this warranty, just wondering why they would publish this and not alert owners of affected vehicles.


Didn't post, here is the actual link:

 

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=195931

Posted

Because that is a PI or preliminary information made for technician diagnostic assistance only. GM isn't going to alert you of that. Only recalls and some special coverages is where customers get alerts. The battery cable issue has been a problem since about 2006. It's not necessarily a GM fault either. It's the plant where they are produced that is the problem. Poor crimps, poor soldering and possibly bad cable stock is where these issues stem from.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Because that is a PI or preliminary information made for technician diagnostic assistance only. GM isn't going to alert you of that. Only recalls and some special coverages is where customers get alerts. The battery cable issue has been a problem since about 2006. It's not necessarily a GM fault either. It's the plant where they are produced that is the problem. Poor crimps, poor soldering and possibly bad cable stock is where these issues stem from.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect, exactly the definition I was looking for. Thanks for the info. I had never heard of a "PI" before.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...