Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am upgrading the audio system in my 2016 Silverado LS that came with the 7" IOB infotainment system that does not have steering wheel control capability nor a CD player both of which I would like to have. I checked with Chevrolet about upgrading and was told I would need to get the 8" screen, change the steering wheel, change the bcm, add a harness and have it programmed at a cost of around $1500.00 but the crazy thing is they also said they could not guarantee it would work! I definitely wasn't going to take that chance so I decided to just replace the headunit with a Pioneer double din to get CD/DVD as well as a few other nice features along with an idatalink Maestro so I can keep all of my factory functions.

I knew this headunit could be controlled by factory steering wheel controls via an add on adapter which got me thinking so I looked up the instructions for the AXXESS ASWC-1 adapter and found it only needs power/ground and one connection into the harness under the steering column. After a little googling my understanding is the factory steering wheel button sends a signal to the computer which determines what function to do based on the different resistance of the particular button pushed and that's the reason only 1 wire output is needed. Now I am no electrical wizard for sure but it appears that if I change the steering wheel to one with the controls and add the necessary harness the buttons should be able to control the aftermarket headunit using the adapter since it would be doing what the computer would be doing with the factory headunit which is just reading the resistance of the button that is pushed. This almost seems too easy especially since I have found nothing is easy to upgrade in these trucks so hopefully one of you electrical wizard can confirm this will work or let me know why it won't. Thanks in advance!

Posted

Anybody have a guess as to why it most likely wouldn't work?

Posted

If it won't work. My bet is that it is because of the BCM. Or lack of installing on that is programmed with steering controls.

Posted (edited)

If it won't work. My bet is that it is because of the BCM. Or lack of installing on that is programmed with steering controls.

Edited by Marv88
Posted

If it won't work. My bet is that it is because of the BCM. Or lack of installing on that is programmed with steering controls.

Oops! I thought the same thing but then i read the connection to the adapter is before the BCM so I thought it would bypass that.

Posted

I have a wheel and clockspring for sale if you wanna try it. Lol.

I may just do that! How much and do you have the harness with the clock spring? (or know the part number)

Posted

Yes. As long as you have all necessary connections for the steering wheel you will be fine. All of the steering wheel control buttons for audio just use different resistances to ground for function. The ASWC reads these resistances and then outputs the corresponding function to your new headunit. I have done car audio for over 20 years and have done this many times in other vehicles and our trucks are no different.

Posted

Yes. As long as you have all necessary connections for the steering wheel you will be fine. All of the steering wheel control buttons for audio just use different resistances to ground for function. The ASWC reads these resistances and then outputs the corresponding function to your new headunit. I have done car audio for over 20 years and have done this many times in other vehicles and our trucks are no different.

Just what I was hoping to hear and thanks! Are there any other connections I would need to make from the buttons ie a ground etc?

Posted

Just what I was hoping to hear and thanks! Are there any other connections I would need to make from the buttons ie a ground etc?

No. As long as all the clockspring and wiring is there you should be good. As there is already some controls in the wheel even without the audio controls there should already be any ground or voltage wires needed. Should only be the output from buttons wire that is missing.

Posted

Yes. As long as you have all necessary connections for the steering wheel you will be fine. All of the steering wheel control buttons for audio just use different resistances to ground for function. The ASWC reads these resistances and then outputs the corresponding function to your new headunit. I have done car audio for over 20 years and have done this many times in other vehicles and our trucks are no different.

On these trucks the maestro and ASWC-1 catch the signal at the clockspring connector. There are very few trucks on this platform that were built using resistance swc functions. So few that the swc module manufacturer (maestro) doesn't even make that specific firmware public.

 

There is a module in the steering wheel for the controls that communicates to the bcm via LIN bus. The bcm then communicates to the radio on LAN or CAN bus. I don't remember which. PAC swc modules catch the signal after the BCM. So PAC is the only one that will always work even if it is a resistance based steering wheel since it is caught after the BCM.

 

Just wanted to throw that out there. I have done a lot of these truck and have encountered both versions and have had some time on the phone with the various manufacturers. I definitely prefer to use a maestro if possible.

 

These(newer GMs) are the only vehicles I have encountered that have data coming out of the steering wheel instead of straight resistance based controls.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

On these trucks the maestro and ASWC-1 catch the signal at the clockspring connector. There are very few trucks on this platform that were built using resistance swc functions. So few that the swc module manufacturer (maestro) doesn't even make that specific firmware public.

 

There is a module in the steering wheel for the controls that communicates to the bcm via LIN bus. The bcm then communicates to the radio on LAN or CAN bus. I don't remember which. PAC swc modules catch the signal after the BCM. So PAC is the only one that will always work even if it is a resistance based steering wheel since it is caught after the BCM.

 

Just wanted to throw that out there. I have done a lot of these truck and have encountered both versions and have had some time on the phone with the various manufacturers. I definitely prefer to use a maestro if possible.

 

These(newer GMs) are the only vehicles I have encountered that have data coming out of the steering wheel instead of straight resistance based controls.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I was not aware of this. I've never encountered one that wasn't resistance based directly from the wheel and then usually converted to data at BCM. But I retired a few years ago so I haven't done one of our body style trucks.
Posted (edited)

Double post again!

Edited by Marv88
Posted

Thanks for all the info guys but I gotta admit I am a little confused now! chancyrudd, since the aswc-1 catches the signal before the BCM (my BCM is not SWC compatible however I am changing to an aftermarket headunit) does this mean it will still work whether the controls are resistance or data based as long as I have the correct clockspring?

 

On these trucks the maestro and ASWC-1 catch the signal at the clockspring connector. There are very few trucks on this platform that were built using resistance swc functions. So few that the swc module manufacturer (maestro) doesn't even make that specific firmware public.

There is a module in the steering wheel for the controls that communicates to the bcm via LIN bus. The bcm then communicates to the radio on LAN or CAN bus. I don't remember which. PAC swc modules catch the signal after the BCM. So PAC is the only one that will always work even if it is a resistance based steering wheel since it is caught after the BCM.

Just wanted to throw that out there. I have done a lot of these truck and have encountered both versions and have had some time on the phone with the various manufacturers. I definitely prefer to use a maestro if possible.

These(newer GMs) are the only vehicles I have encountered that have data coming out of the steering wheel instead of straight resistance based controls.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...